I broke two cardinal rules today !

[Kevin the grey]

Don,t buy cheap tools and don,t use old paint !

The tools isn,t that bad a sin . I,m in construction so I usually buy at least middle quality . Channel lock and up .

I was searching the dollar store for a set of four round and flat files for (you guessed it) a dollar . They are made by vector and are not all that bad for a home . Certainly not workshop quality but I pardon myself for this not so grievous error .

The Stain on the other hand is the goop/gel that sucked me down into a morass of my own making and deservedly so .It looked fine and as it is a gel I figured no mixing and definitely no shaking . The manufacturer agreed with me . (Fowl cad that he is ! )
I used a lint free rag and dipped into and got a brown gel(teak) wiped it onto a new sanded piece of seasoned spruce . All I got to adhere was a thin barely brown color that made cafe au lait look like french corse .

What ho?, says I . There be something wrong . I tried gently mixing and actually got a little darker color to rise from the depths . Ah , brown gold says I ! Dip and drag the rag only got me traces of dark brown on the light brown and through all this what was proabably the Varnish in this Circa 1850 stain n varnish . Is this stuff toast ? This looked to be an unopened tin . (I inherited it)I don,t think you are supposed to overly mix this gel as it puts bubbles in the finish . I know this isn,t a biggie for some of you guys . Its to stain some arrows for my birthday archery tournament and St Pattys day extravaganza . Its the only stuff I have with a sealer in it .

 

[Yvsa]

Dispose of all of it properly and have a good cry.
Then go buy some Nicholson Files and some decent stain/finish.
Minwax is a good brand.:thumbup: Then you can let loose a couple of more sobs, chalk it up to experience, and then put the whole situation behind you as you will have then rectified your mistakes.:thumbup:
Unless you have a really large project or are going to be using a lot of stain or finish it's best to buy it in smaller quanities.
That way it doesn't go bad on you but if you don't buy the liquid shellac and you have a place to keep the stain and or finish without freezing it will last you a good long time. Store it upside down as it's easier to remix after a period of long storage.
Buying good files is just an all around wise decision to begin with. They cut better and faster and they last twice or three times longer than the cheap ones.
And when they do wear out they can be made into excellent knives. :thumbup:

 

[Kevin the grey]

The files are no biggie and I might have got the ncholson except they didn,t have a round file under an eighth . Really when it comes to selection even the home depot only has a bare minimum . I think I,ll check out lee valley for a kit . We have a local woodworking store . They get a little ridiculous with two hundred dollar chisels . (each) I guess thats okay for someone who,ll get a lot of use out of them The stain is a pain cause its full . Like I said I inherited it . I,ve got homemade walnut stain with no sealer in it I need an inexpensive glueable sealer .

 

[hollowdweller]

I thought you were gonna say

#1 never have the receipt sent with the knife

and

#2 never let the wife know how many knives you have.

 

[Kevin the grey]

I thought you were gonna say

#1 never have the receipt sent with the knife

and

#2 never let the wife know how many knives you have.

REPLY : SHe knows , she knows ! L:O:L

 

[Yvsa]

The stain is a pain cause its full . Like I said I inherited it . I,ve got homemade walnut stain with no sealer in it I need an inexpensive glueable sealer .

Kevin some things we inherit aren't worth the time and money we try to save by using or keeping it. Speaking from experience.

I'm guessing that you need a sealer that can have fletching glued on it after it dries?
I'd think that most any decent wood glue would work and especially the Weldbond. Weldbond is good for a lot of different applications including helping cement cure/bond(?) underwater.
The Weldbond says it is also a sealer as well as a glue. I know I've had mighty good results with it and unlike the Probond Polyurethane glue it doesn't go hard in the bottle.

 

[Kevin the grey]

Kevin some things we inherit aren't worth the time and money we try to save by using or keeping it. Speaking from experience.

I'm guessing that you need a sealer that can have fletching glued on it after it dries?
I'd think that most any decent wood glue would work and especially the Weldbond. Weldbond is good for a lot of different applications including helping cement cure/bond(?) underwater.
The Weldbond says it is also a sealer as well as a glue. I know I've had mighty good results with it and unlike the Probond Polyurethane glue it doesn't go hard in the bottle.

REPLY < I have a fair size bottle of it . What would be the best way to apply it as its pretty thick . I thought weldbond was water soluble ?

 

[Yvsa]

REPLY < I have a fair size bottle of it . What would be the best way to apply it as its pretty thick . I thought weldbond was water soluble ?

Kevin it is water soluble as long as it's wet but once dry it is very water resitant. I use it to glue up my ndn Flutes and have carried them into the hot and steamy Sweatlodge after they were finished.
And that was even with a boiled linseed oil finish and have had no problem with them.
I wouldn't be afraid to use it for fletching if that's what you're going to use it for.
But if it is then it may be a good idea to ask Sarge what he uses.