I don't understand the s110v PM2. Hear me out.

[MyLegsAreOk]

Ok this story is a doozie so strap in.
A year back I decided to switch to s110v PM2 for my work knife because I break down lots of boxes and blah blah blah, not the point. The point is that after a year I sharpened a good bit off of it so I wanted to get a new blade. I keep my PM2 in flytanium scales so I had to buy a whole new knife then slap the TI scales back on the new PM2.

HERE'S THE THING
Now that I completed the surgery I have noticed that action is different, better, it's like the Yojimbo 2 now which I don't recall it ever being like with the first blurp PM2. So: did S110v rip up the lock, the stop-stud, and I guess the liners of my old PM2 to the point it was sloppy and not snappy like the Yoji 2 OR was the PM2 updated so that it now has much tighter action akin to the Yoji2.

There is a clear different between my s110v 2017 and s110v 2018 or maybe I just got a one off fluke a year back. Any ideas?

 

[bdmicarta]

Where is the doozie part?

Swapping parts around changes the adjustment. You can fine tune the pivot tension and fine tune the stop pin to make the knife feel different.

 

[Misthailin]

did S110v rip up the lock, the stop-stud, and I guess the liners of my old PM2

I don’t know... did it?

 

[Lapedog]

Ok this story is a doozie so strap in.
A year back I decided to switch to s110v PM2 for my work knife because I break down lots of boxes and blah blah blah, not the point. The point is that after a year I sharpened a good bit off of it so I wanted to get a new blade. I keep my PM2 in flytanium scales so I had to buy a whole new knife then slap the TI scales back on the new PM2.

HERE'S THE THING
Now that I completed the surgery I have noticed that action is different, better, it's like the Yojimbo 2 now which I don't recall it ever being like with the first blurp PM2. So: did S110v rip up the lock, the stop-stud, and I guess the liners of my old PM2 to the point it was sloppy and not snappy like the Yoji 2 OR was the PM2 updated so that it now has much tighter action akin to the Yoji2.

There is a clear different between my s110v 2017 and s110v 2018 or maybe I just got a one off fluke a year back. Any ideas?

The PM2s are not built with tolerances that gaurantees the same action every single time. Even extremely exact knives like the Sebenza I have had ones from the factory that had stiffer actions than others.

I have had 2 s30v digicam pm2s and one black g10 s30v pm2. (all satin blades) The first two the blade would swing completely free with no bladeplay when I held the lock open. The last one was much stiffer and although I could hold the lock open and wrist flick it back and forward, the blade wouldn’t hang limply like the first 2.

 

[MyLegsAreOk]

Oh I see so I guess there are minuscule differences in the dimensions of the liner/blade depending on any number of factors during manufacture. The action between the one from this year and last is night and day, like it's a totally different model. It's so bizarre I figured something major was going on.

 

[Lapedog]

Oh I see so I guess there are minuscule differences in the dimensions of the liner/blade depending on any number of factors during manufacture. The action between the one from this year and last is night and day, like it's a totally different model. It's so bizarre I figured something major was going on.

That’s right. It is just differences in the way the final knife came together.

 

[tsiloics]

It's not that difficult to adjust the relationship between pivot friction and lateral play in the PM2, if that's what you're getting at.

 

[Mo2]

Some pm2 come a little stiff. Mine did. Just loosen the pivot and or adjust the stop pin. All will work fine. Tho be careful of soft screws and or locktite (on older models they used red locktite).

 

[FK]

It is not an issue with soft screws,, the problem is poor fitting torx bits that rotate out andchew up the pocket in the screw head.

The Wiha brand is excellent and a set of bits is not expensive.

Regards,
FK

 

[Wowbagger]

The point is that after a year I sharpened a good bit off of it

OH man . . . I couldn't go further . . . without saying
Are you using a belt sander or hand sharpening ?
I take almost nothing off mine to get it sharp again using an Edge Pro.

 

[Wowbagger]

There is a clear different between my s110v 2017 and s110v 2018 or maybe I just got a one off fluke a year back. Any ideas?

The last Para 2 I bought a couple of months ago (a CamiDLCS30V) has hands down the best action of all of mine (I have four). I didn't adjust it a bit and it just swings and drops and locks up perfect with about as close to zero play as one could want. My others were OK with fiddling and my fav, the M4 in natural G10 that I put back in my pocket the last couple of weeks was kind of like whaaaaaaaa ???? huuuuuuuuhhhh even after some micro oiling. I bought it second hand (NIB) and you know when those come out.

So yes you might have something there; newer may work better. I doubt the S110V would be much different on the pivot, liners or lock than S30V or other alloys though.

 

[darth_cholo]

OH man . . . I couldn't go further . . . without saying
Are you using a belt sander or hand sharpening ?
I take almost nothing off mine to get it sharp again using an Edge Pro.

I also want to see the damage after one year. Maybe just need a good professional shapenening service to reset the bevel angles. (Recommend form members here for that)

 

[Phixt]

I love the fact that when I disassemble and reassemble my PM2s, the action is always superior to when it came from the dealer. Even the tightness of the screws for the clip can effect things, at least from what I've felt.

I may have missed the point.

 

[Phixt]

It is not an issue with soft screws,, the problem is poor fitting torx bits that rotate out andchew up the pocket in the screw head.

The Wiha brand is excellent and a set of bits is not expensive.

Regards,
FK

I've read somewhere in the Spydie kingdom that a member was constantly stripping screws despite his due dilligance. He contacted Spyderco, and the staff there told him, 'lightly tap the bit into the screw, that's what we do'. I've followed that procedure everytime. Really no different if we're talking modern folders or any other stubborn screw scenarios.

I agree the right size is important. Trying to get away with a close fitting bit is the start of doing it wrong. Dunno if this helps in anyway as an alternative.

 

[FK]

Yes, Spyderco Customer Service told me the same.
Place knife on hard surface, like a bench, use the correct Wiha bit and tap the bit into the screw.
This may take several taps or adjustment of force.
This loosens the Locktite bond and makes screw removal much easier.
Spyderco does not use heat to remove screws,, impact is their preferred method.

Push down hard on the driver to fully engage the torx bit when removing screws,,, hand holding the knife and not using the bench for support is a potential problem.

They also use Wiha brand torx bits and drivers.

Regards,
FK

 

[Cursum Perficio]

Got an S110V Para2 when they were 1st released. It was a bit off center and stiff, one of the poorer Para 2's I've had for it's action.
I took the blurple off and clad it in marbled CF, and when I put it back together it was mint; centered, smooth, lock up, everything was sweet. All I did was wipe the bits down and carefully reassemble it.

 

[darth_cholo]

I have 5 compression locks (2 pm2 and 3 para3). I've rebuilt the s30v para3 100% and it's the smoothest compression lock you'll ever try with zero blade play and the easiest to open zero lockstick (not even a hint). My other sprint run para3s only needed a teeny tiny bit loosening if pivot screw and that's it.

I can say that the PM2s adjustments are way harder. I so got some carbon fiber handles and put my cruwear blade into them and got horrible lockstick and the adjustment is really requires alot of fine tuning to get it right due to there being screws on the stop pin. I finally got it right and to redo a few times because I couldnt get loctite to stick and keep from loosening up too much after flicking 50 times. Its currently sitting for the whole week because I don't want to risk using with loctite uncured.

PM3 should find a way to have a lock pin without screws like Para3 if they ever get around to a redesign. Maybe also add a 2nd standoff in the back near the lanyard tube and not pressfit the tube.

 

[darth_cholo]

Got an S110V Para2 when they were 1st released. It was a bit off center and stiff, one of the poorer Para 2's I've had for it's action.
I took the blurple off and clad it in marbled CF, and when I put it back together it was mint; centered, smooth, lock up, everything was sweet. All I did was wipe the bits down and carefully reassemble it.

May I ask who the maker of those scales is.

 

[Cursum Perficio]

May I ask who the maker of those scales is.

Ripps Garage Tech. They fit perfectly.

 

[MyLegsAreOk]

OH man . . . I couldn't go further . . . without saying
Are you using a belt sander or hand sharpening ?
I take almost nothing off mine to get it sharp again using an Edge Pro.

I do it by hand with DMT plates. After a year I probably took 15~20% off but didn't notice how much I took off until like 2 months back. I do a lot of work with the knife and the super sharp factoryish edge is gone in a day and then you get it to box cutter dullness in 4 days or so. For the record everything else (VG-10, 154CM, s30v) is as dull as a spoon in 1 day with the exception being Maxamet. I gave the first s110v blade away but I can take a picture sometime in the future.

I've read somewhere in the Spydie kingdom that a member was constantly stripping screws despite his due dilligance. He contacted Spyderco, and the staff there told him, 'lightly tap the bit into the screw, that's what we do'. I've followed that procedure everytime. Really no different if we're talking modern folders or any other stubborn screw scenarios.

I agree the right size is important. Trying to get away with a close fitting bit is the start of doing it wrong. Dunno if this helps in anyway as an alternative.

I stripped every screw on my first PM2, 3 on this second one, and 1 on my G-10 Yoji 2. Replaced them all with aftermarkets from gnife qits dat kom that never strip but don't fit in the holes correctly. I got to using Wiha a long time back and they work much MUCH better at getting both aftermarket and factory screws out after some heating/tapping.