I finally *handled* an HI, at least...

Jim March

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Oct 7, 1998
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So far, as I've done is ogle the pics and read.

That doesn't do these beasts justice at all, but you knew that.

At the forums Pizza Party tonight in the South SF Bay, somebody brought a 15" Ang Khola, probably the most common type (?) of HI.

My, my, MY what a lovely bit of steel.

Now, my primary mode of thinking is "weapon potential". It can clearly hack like nobody's business, but you knew that too.

What was far more interesting was it's stabbing potential, and it's "feel".

When doing a stab, the big risk is that the tip will "hang up" either on unexpectedly tough clothing, bone or whatever and the hand will do a "slip up" type accident. This is where your hand slides down the blade and you cut all four fingers, often badly.

This is considered suboptimal by most.

The standard "Western method" of dealing with it is to throw on one or more guards. The Kamis don't do that.

Instead, that circle around the middle of the grip is angled so that it locks your grip from sliding, sort of a "one way valve" effect. At least on this specimen, the grip behind that series of rings was of smaller diameter than the grip closer to the blade.

The end result was that it felt *wonderful* in what's sometimes known as the "FMA grip", where the pinkie through middle finger are the primary grip strength digits and the thumb and forefinger are loose. I'll bet you dollars to donuts the primary Bando grip will be the same. The same technique is seen in some Japanese practices although it's not the primary knife grip in some (most?) systems. It's seen more in swordwork.

Anyways...the "FMA grip" is often used with machete/bolo length weapons that shouldn't be too different in heft to the Sirupati and other "lighter combat-oriented Khukuris".

Also: it seems clear that on a stab, you'd angle the tip "up" quite a bit, so that it's at around the same height as the middle of the grip. At that point the grip would be slanted upwards at about a 30degree or so angle as you push directly horizontal, and that would increase the "friction effect" between the grip and your palm. Trying to stab with the grip horizontal (ignoring the blade curvature) would be idiocy, so you'd need a lot of "feel" and practice to change the muscle memory around, but that's no biggie.

So without question, I'm now going to score a 20" Sirupati or similar "light and fast model". It'll have to wait a bit on cash availability but I *will* order one at some point. The Outsider is somewhere between the size of a 12" overall and 15" overall Sirupati and in many ways is similar in function, so I'd go bigger on the HI to avoid having "duplicate function knives"...which if I *didn't* avoid, I'd go broke
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Jim March
 
If it was my 15" AK then it should be noted that when you get them new they generally don't look as rough. Jim, Joe has mine currently and since you live near to him feel free to get a lend of it when he is finished with it if you want to work with it for awhile.

-Cliff
 
Many thanks for observations and feedback, Jim. Also note the section of blade between bolster and cho is blunt -- just in case you slide fingers above handle you have some blunt blade that won't cut and hopefully the cho will stop your hand from slinding on to the cutting edge.

I have a picture of a Bando master holding a khukuri in a reverse grip at the ready for a stab. I can't post it but if you want to take a look outside the forums give me a buzz and I'll send it via email to you.

Uncle Bill
 
Jim,try the WW11 it has a longer handle than the sirupati and is more versitile.I like the sirupati but,for an iniation,I recommend the WW11.It gives up something in point presention but,makes up in chopping.Unless you want a blem.beater,I would advise giving the Newaris a buck.You may get a surprise but,it will be one of a kind.
 
Jim, Ghost is right, if you want longer than 15 inches then the WWII would be it. If 15 inches satisfies you, then the A.K. is my favorite.
 
Jim,

I'm in the same boat as you (saving the pennies 'til I can afford one), and am seriously looking at the 20" Sirupati as well (but also the WWII-sounds like a good fighter as well with more utility). I've even heard comments like "bite the bullet and come up with the cash for a HI khukuri".

However, (chorus of angels singing as sun breaks through the clouds) I'm discovering how much of a deal a HI khukuri really is. A quick comparison to illustrate: a CS Trailmaster @ $260 or an 18" HI Ang Khola @ $195. Add in the HI warranty, among other things, and do the math. Hmmm...tough choice (snicker).

It's just a matter of time before I "bite the bullet". When the time gets closer, I'll be wanting a brochure/catalog Bill.

Dave




 
Jim, take a look at the Chainpuri (20") thread. It's blade is shaped like the Sirupati, but thinner and lighter.

You wouldn't believe the ergonomics and speed of the 18" Chainpuri that's my favorite. #2 on my list is the 20" Chainpuri and #3 is the 12" Sirupati.

Also, consider how the geometry affects the speed with which you can change edge direction. A small twist of the wrist makes a very very fast change.
 
Bill, any idea on the actual weight difference between a 20" Sirupati and Chainpuri?

See...to me, with the 20" you'll get extra reach AND heft, enough extra heft that you should be able to go "as light as they'll go" and against human targets still have something effective. I *think* speed matters more than "raw chopping power", the Ang Khola was most definately a GREAT bit of steel - for utility. I consider it too heavy for a fighter, esp. if there's lighter choices.

So exact weight measurements would be great, if you have 'em. I'm more concerned with that than I am blade shape.

Jim March
 
Jim, I have 3 chainpuris:

An 18" weighing 14 ounces.
An 18" weighing 20 ounces ( same weight as the 15" BAS ).

A 20" whose weight I don't know. Will try to get it weighed and weigh my 20" Sirupati at the same time, and get back to you as soon as I can.
 
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