I got a new toy :D +stainless steel ?'s

Robert_Phelps

Robert_Phelps

Joined
Nov 29, 2005
Messages
475
I figure this is a step up from my brick forges. :cool:

Can't wait to try some good stainless :D. The first "good" knife I ever had was one I made, so I've only experienced quality blades that were carbon steel. I've heard you guys talking about the different stainless steels you use, but for my clarity I want to see if I can't get some non-argumentative info on them. Which stainless steel is the 1095 of the group, with very good edge holding? Which one would be more a the camp knife steel? I realize these may be questions up for debate, but I'll see what I can't gather from any debate. :p
000_0006.jpg


Is this the right socket? My dad said is was 240v.
000_0005.jpg
 
Yep that a 200v plug but check and see if you have 100v per leg witha meter.Nice score on the kiln, also I am sold on the CPM 154CM.
 
i think thats 240
i think they were for air conditioner, a small window one.
it looks like it has small romax wiring so someone might have use it for 110
ask jt he's on here , and thats his type of work. after i'm just a bricklayer
vern
 
This socket powered a large (6' tall or so) stationary air compressor, and has its own breaker box... if that helps.
 
You are certainly right about the debate part of your post.
I just don't know if any of the true stainless type steels can be thought of as like 1095. It seems like many makers will use one of the steels like: CPM 154, CPM S30V, and use robust edge geometry for a camp knife.

If I want 1095 type toughness, in a stain resistant steel, I will, and have used CPM 3V. This steel is very tough at RC 60-61, and will hold an edge much longer than 1095. OOOOps. this will probably start some controversy. 3V requires austenizing temps of 1950 to 2050, so check your furnace.

There are many who will use D2 ( almost stainless type ) and will use the best blade geometry for their use and be happy. D2 can be purchased easily and economically. Many people like D2, me too!
Best wishes, Don
 
Blue_Dragon said:
Is this the right socket? My dad said is was 240v.
000_0005.jpg
Click to expand...

Yep, standard NEMA 3 prong 20 amp 240 VAC outlet. If properly installed it will have at least 12 AWG wire and a 20 amp 2 pole breaker.

You should read 110-120 volts AC between either of the flat prongs and the 'D' shaped ground plug, and 220-240 VAC between the flat prongs.

https://www.hubbellnet.com/max_htm/tech_stuff/NEMA/front.html

I'm an EE by education, but end up doing a lot of 1 and 3 phase power work as well.
 
yep its 240. that looks like the old romex 12awg wire. now all 12awg romex wire is yellow. your going to have to find a way to mount your kiln upside down as your plug is :).
 
Different plug configurations are for different amperages as well as different voltages. That one looks like a 220 plug for a 20 Amp circuit.

Question: how many amps does your oven pull at 220V?
You should find the info on the maker plate, usually a silver plate on the back of the unit. Sometimes it is given in wattage. Divide the wattage by the voltage to get the amperage. (I'd be somewhat surprised if you only needed a 20 amp line for that. )

IF your furnace takes 30A and you try to run it on a 20A, you will blow the breaker. Breaker amperage is determined by the diameter of the wire. So if you have a 20 amp circuit and you need a 30 Amp circuit, you will need to run new wire to the breaker box. For a 30 amp circuit, you will need #10 wire. For 40 amp circuit, you need #8.
 
cool! then looks like you are set to go.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top