I hate hand sanding. Motorized solution?

[Daniel Rohde]

I can't imagine sitting there sanding it out with little strips of sand paper when you have electricity and an infinitely long strip of sand paper.

You can put a radius on the end of your platen and run your grinder slow

Hey, no fish hooks :thumbup:

It takes about 30 minutes.

Cheater!! Haha... my only problem with this sort of setup is that the plung radius is rather big for me...

 

[Brock Cutlery]

Cheater!! Haha... my only problem with this sort of setup is that the plung radius is rather big for me...

I use that platen, but haven't used the end radius for my plunges. I do mostly plungeless kitchen knives, so not necessary.
I don't remove the wheel either, just have a proud platen and be careful. I can run it at speed this way.

 

[PEU]

Porn

i can't imagine sitting there sanding it out with little strips of sand paper when you have electricity and an infinitely long strip of sand paper.

you can put a radius on the end of your platen and run your grinder slow

hey, no fish hooks :d :thumbup:

It takes about 30 minutes.

 

[Daniel Rohde]

I use that platen, but haven't used the end radius for my plunges. I do mostly plungeless kitchen knives, so not necessary.
I don't remove the wheel either, just have a proud platen and be careful. I can run it at speed this way.

I could totaly see them a great for that! But in general I like a fairly sharp radius in my plunges(still rounded but more like a 1/8" radius) and I don't think it would work for those...Nathen?

 

[stezann]

Of course it will work...just have the radius you want at the end of the platen.
I don't find so difficult hand sanding....providing i had a go with the disk sander before, in order to have a true flat surface to hand sand on!!!
If you pass on the disk you'll find all the ultra shallow divots in your blade, where the scratches will hide almost forever when hand sanding.

 

[Brock Cutlery]

One other trick you can use on the grinder to reveal your divots if you don't have the ability to do a full lengthwise grind is to angle the blade at a 45 across the platen. Go down a couple of grits if you don't have good control yet, maybe even if you do. You can cause more problems than you fix if not careful.
Don't try to remove steel when you do this, just reveal the issues. Then after careful evaluation, grind out the problems.
This will reveal any irregularities in your grind and give you an opportunity to pull them out. Do this before you get it down to the final dimensions.

 

[Luis Barros]

I use a Makita 1/4 sheet sander for most of my flat sanding. I replaced the foam rubber pad with a 1/4 inch Micarta sheet and use several pieces of paper to cushion the sand paper.

Bumping on an old thread but how did you replaced the rubber pad with micarta? I do have a Makita and I use it to remove scratches before hand sanding.

 

[Drew Riley]

Bumping on an old thread but how did you replaced the rubber pad with micarta? I do have a Makita and I use it to remove scratches before hand sanding.

On the square finish sanders, they're typically held in place by 4 screws through the face of the pad. Just remove the screws and the rubber pad (and its backing plate) should pop right off. You can then use this as a template for a micarta replacement. Mark your holes, drill and counter sink for the screw heads, and use the same screws that held the rubber pad to secure the micarta to the sander. You can probably use the same hold down bars for the paper, but you might also try some feathering adhesive to keep the paper from sliding around as much. A thin sheet of harder durometer rubber might not be a bad thing either. Probably 70ish. It'll have a lot less give/flex than the original pad, but still just enough to keep your paper from wearing out as fast.