I hate my 4X6 bandsaw...

Patrice Lemée

Patrice Lemée

Joined
Aug 13, 2002
Messages
5,703
...with a vengeance. Tried to adjust it with instructions provided and from the web. Bought bi-metal blades. They are just a little too small I always have the hardest time putting them back on when the pop out. I break teeth almost as soon as I get the blades. Now I set it to the lowest speed and the blade pop out again. Can't put it back on. Arghhhhh!:mad:

Is this all because of the blades or User Error?

Patrice
 
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If you have the HF version (I think I remember that you do), do you have the tension knob at the top tight enough? Also, how many teeth per inch are your blades? The box should say what the minimum stock thickness needs to be, like for mine, it is 3/32 is the minimum, and I think I have 24 teeth per inch. Olson brand. I only had the teeth break once on mine, and I contacted them and they replaced the blade. Second one has been holding up nicely.
 
they are easy to hate...I have 2 of them, I hate one, love the other.
you want 3 teeth on the metal when you cut so you buy accordingly. having said that it's almost impossible to buy them that way and get anything done, especially if you cutting thinner stock. Generally, I use 14tpi on thicker stuff, 18tpi on thin stuff. (I also keep a 4 to 6tpi around for cutting antler/bone.) I always use a bi-metal blade and I tend to prefer Lenox Diemaster2 blades that can really take bending and twisting - which is a design feature for them. Proper break in matters. Basically, for tool steel, use them at 1/2 to 3/4's 'normal' pressure/speed - what ever that is- for the first 15 minutes. Just take it easy for the 10 or 15 minutes before pushing too hard when cutting.

The blade has to be tight...just as tight as you can crank that knob on the top. Getting them to track properly if you have on out of line is an exercise in getting pissed off. You have to fiddle with the top wheel mounting on the back of the housing and it's trial and error.

good luck.
 
If the blade is popping off on a regular basis then it is usually one of two things. Either the tracking (there should be adjustment screws for the idler wheel) isn't right or the blade tension isn't sufficient to overcome occasional binding causing it to come off the idler wheel.

If you are loosing teeth then you probably need a blade with more TPI. Anytime you cut with less than three teeth touching the material at all times there is an excess of stress on them. [Bi-metal blades being harder than a standard blade are more prone to this.]

[Sorry. Tracey said it all while I was typing]

Gary
 
I just wanted to clarify what blades I use. I buy mine from Rural King for about $20. The tag/label says:

Olson brand
64 1/2" 1/2 x .020 x 24 Wavy
64 - 1/2" Horizontal Band Saws
BI METAL
For Stock Cut Off 3/32" + Thick
Steel, Non-Ferrous Metals etc.
Product No.
BM64624
 
I use a Lenox Diemaster 2 10/14 Vari tooth blade for everything from 1/8" and up. 1/16" will definitely cause TOOTH BREAKAGE.

I think with those HF Bandsaws you kinda get what you pay for. For $150.00 or so, one can't really complain *too much*. I'm sure the blade popping off has something to due with the design of the saw as I put a blade on my 18" bandsaw that I have, and it has never fallen off. Then again I paid around $1300.00 for it...so there ya go Patriq !
 
Patrice, open you wheel cover, look at the bottom drive wheel and pull it OUT, sometimes the gearbox allows for the shaft to move in and this will never EVER let the blade stay on, just give it a tug.
 
I had to shim the top wheel bearing because the top wheel was dropped toward the bolt head, I put a homemade washer on to keep the bearing/wheel on th eupper part ot its shaft and am nw having good results.

I was using the name brand (starrett and lenox) blades, and got frustrated by the inability to get fine pitch blades, so when my last starrett blade broke its teeth off on thin stock I picked up a bimetal HF blade, and even though they are crap, it lasted longer than the name brand blades that cost more because it had the apropriate tooth count for the thickness I was cutting

-Page
 
It has been said they are the same. But these cheap saws are not all created equal. Grizzly and Jet make a better saw. HF is at the bottom.

I use Lenox Diemaster2 blades, 10/14 for thick stuff 18 to 22 TPI for thin, and 24 for titanium.
 
Fastenal offers the Lenox diemasters in any tooth measurement, as well as custom lengths with very short lead time.

Just to let you knoooooow :rolleyes: :D
 
Thanks guys. You probably saved the life of this particular bandsaw cause I was ready to put it in the driveway and back over it with the car.

Let me try these tips and I'll post the results.
Or maybe a the picture of a flattened bandsaw. ;)

Thanks again.

Patrice
 
Just to make sure,
When a blade pops off, you have to loosen the upper wheel, re-install the blade, and re-tighten the upper wheel. You need to get it TIGHT. Use a gloved hand and really torque it down. Don't be tempted to use a wrench, or you may break things. Play with the upper wheel alignment and , as Fitzo said, check that the lower wheel is in place and all the set screws, etc, are tight.
Also, feed the metal slowly, and avoid any jamming or binding of the blade, especially when trying to cut curves.
Stacy
 
I once had one in a little machine shop I assembled where I worked. I used it for years and the last I heard they had even put the poor little thing into production. A great saw. When I first started building my own shop I got one. I used and abused the little saw without mercy for years. It cut straight and true and could be counted on for a nice clean cut and I even still have it today.

When we started building a shop for our growing little lab at the contract engineering company where I now work I got another one. Stupid thing never worked right and we eventually threw it away and got a proper saw.

Two out of three ain't bad.
 
I have a Jet and like it but have done some mods to make it user friendly and stop the blade from coming off.

Be sure the blade is on both wheels all the way to the back. The lower wheel can move back on the shaft as Sam says.

If the blade is hard to put back on simply give it more clearance by filing or grinding down the stop so the threaded bolt on the adjustment knob can lower the top wheel another 1/4" or so.

My wheels finally wore the back stop off and I started breaking blades so I had a friend with a bigger metal lathe turn new shoulders on both wheels and taper them toward the back by a degree or two. Now they seat themselves back almost by themselves. I sometimes push so hard the blade stops but it doesnt pop off anymore.

Be sure all the bearings are adjusted so the blade cant move around under load.

I put new grease in the gear box too. It really looked dry in there.
 
Ok things are not getting better but worst.

Bottom wheel pulled out, Checked.
Top wheel tracks ok, Checked.
Turned the top wheel a little like Bruce said, Checked.
Bought 2 new blades, 14 tpi. Checked.
Adjustment of the bearings, Checked
Blade tension set by hand as hard as I can, Checked.

Things are going to run great I am sure.
Not! The blade pops out after cutting not even a quarter inch of 1/8th 1095. :mad:

I can't afford a 1200$ metal cutting bandsaw. I have other tools I need to buy first. :(

Patrice
 
Are you sure the top wheel is tracking properly? There should be an adjustment on it somewhere that changes the tracking. I'll check through the e-manual on the HF version to see if I can help.
 
does it come off by itself even if you are not cutting?

I had a similar problem with the blade that came with my saw and it was fixed with a better blade.

the guide bearing may need to be adjusted also. if they are to far forward or backward it could cause a problem.

I have a HF and a previously stated its bottom of the line, but I have never had problem that I couldn't fix.

-Josiah
 
If adjustment is necessary, loosen the 3. upper Hex Head Bolt (56) to a point where it is loose, but snug. (See Figure K.)
With the Bandsaw running, turn the 4. lower Hex Head Screw (110) until the Saw Blade (86) is tracking properly, making sure Blade tension is maintained by turning the Blade Tension Adjusting Knob (125). (See Figure K.)
Make sure to retighten the upper Hex 5. Head Screw (56) when adjustment is complete. (See Figure K.)

bandsaw.jpg
 
Thanks Mike, let me try that.

Here are a few pics of my bandsaw.

Patrice
 

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