I have some more axe questions

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benchmadebob

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May 12, 2008
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Im looking at getting my first granfors bruks a small forest axe. Im mainly going to use it for cutting up fallen trees over hiking trails. And collecting frewood. And heres my question if you have a axe of similar size how do you pack it also how do think it would handle this type of chores. Also i was wondering if you think i could easily conceal it in a back pack. And my final question. Does ray mears use this axe?
 
i have the wetterlings in that size, and normally tie it to the outside of my pack.

when that's not an option, i can usually conceal it in some of my bigger packs...but it is about max length for most school style backpacks. i often have the handle poking out the top if i carry in a pack.
 
It's good to axe questions :)

Does Mears use Granfors Bruks axes? Yup, he sells them too. Question is, what does he use them for?

I wouldn't go after big windfalls with that small axe. It would be good for limbing and stuff under, oh, let's say 4" diameter. Any bigger than that and you're gonna get a real workout. I would want a full size felling axe to go after trees other than saplings.

Consider a bow saw for log-sized stuff. Look at Sven saws if you want something really packable. They are a lot quieter than an axe if you are doing something you shouldn't. Had a buddy who like to swipe slash timber for his wood stove and he used a Bosch electric chain saw running on a car battery. Worked pretty good if you didn't overwork it and get it too hot. :cool:

I pack an axe in a sheath that covers the head and there's no problem concealing one in a pack.

Now, about cutting windfall trees. Be really careful. You can release stresses in fallen trees and they can roll over on you, kick out at you, and other trees can come down once you release the tension. You are playing with big dangerous jackstraws. :eek::eek::eek: Saplings don't scare me, but when you get up to around 8" and larger stuff, it can get serious. Keep in mind that wet timber weighs a lot more than the kiln dried stuff in the lumber yard. I would rather climb over or around.
 
I use my Gransfors SFA for clearing portages, felling dead standing trees for firewood (up to 6" dia.), limbing, and splitting sawn lengths (up to 6" dia.). It handles all of that and I have absolutely zero complaints. Its smaller size and weight is perfect for someone on the go and I usually carry it in my hand while I'm working. When traveling, it goes inside my large pack. You can loop the sheath strap around your belt then snap it closed if you want to carry it on your belt. But it would held there by just one snap – I would always worry about it dropping off. Good luck with yours... it's a fine axe to own.
 
I used my axe for everything at camp, tent pegs, cooking utensils, shelters, whatever else I need.
After I moved out here however, I haven't used much more than a folding saw and the RC6.

But when I used the axe a lot, I would attache it out side of the pack, or If I had a small one I would tuck it in my belt, or through the traps on my pack at the bottom of it, kinda in the small of my back. But usually it was tucked in my belt.
 
Dale, big stuff isn't such a workout if you pace yourself...;)

but i agree, the largest wood i would normally take on with that size axe during an outing would be about 4-5"

personally, i think its a great size for a bushcraft style axe. it is small and light enough to not be too much trouble to carry, but it can be used two handed for some pretty serious work.

it is also a good size for single handed use when shaping wood or chopping smaller stuff quickly.

mine weighs in at 2.25 pounds, i don't know what the Gransfors model weighs but it is close. certainly not light weight, but for day outings or for camping when you aren't hiking very long distances, the weight isn't a big deal.
 
Thanks guys. Im going to be carryinf my 10 inch corona folding saw. Btw it is bad A$$ saw. Also i have another question. I hear a lot about using linseed oil on your handles. So what do i have to do. I know i have to sand the varnish off and do i just coat it or soak it in linseed oil do i have to used boiled or can i just use linseedoil.
 
My GB didn't feel like it had varnish on the handle.

I can get my SFA in a larger pack. It is a very versatile size axe---lots of chopping power for its size.

DancesWithKnives
 
benchmadebob said:
Also i have another question. I hear a lot about using linseed oil on your handles. So what do i have to do. I know i have to sand the varnish off and do i just coat it or soak it in linseed oil do i have to used boiled or can i just use linseedoil.
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Gransfors axe handles are not varnished, so don't sand them. But they're not bare either. There is already some sort of light oil applied to them. I rubbed on some raw linseed oil to mine. Boiled linseed oil works the same, but dries faster. There is no reason to soak the handle. I find I only need to oil it once a year.
 
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benchmadebob said:
Thanks guys. Im going to be carryinf my 10 inch corona folding saw. Btw it is bad A$$ saw. Also i have another question. I hear a lot about using linseed oil on your handles. So what do i have to do. I know i have to sand the varnish off and do i just coat it or soak it in linseed oil do i have to used boiled or can i just use linseed oil.
Click to expand...

Use boiled linseed oil. Regular linseed oil never really dries.
 
Cpl Punishment said:
Use boiled linseed oil. Regular linseed oil never really dries.
Click to expand...

If you have it. I already have raw for the cutting board and my experience is that it penetrates as it should and dries on the outside. Even without cutting it with turpentine. Otherwise I wouldn't need to keep applying it. Anyway, this thread reminded me to get out the axe and give it a coat. It's drying on the counter now. I'll wipe off the excess in about an hour.
 
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