I have the dullest SJTAC in the universe....Help!

idahoskunk said:
that does it, we all need a drink now, i'm buying!:thumbup:
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COOL!!!!

I'll send the tab for my 1.75 Ltr Bourbon 'drink'.

This is so bizarre and funny. I just the other day found a small pyramid under the bed that I had bought for my wife back in the mid 70's. Laughed then, wondering how many others had read those 'pyramid power' books. Guess 1 did in Idaho. LOL Enhanced your 'herbs' also, supposedly. LOL

Anyone under 45 or so is wondering WTF I'm talking about.

Nevermind.

Rob
 
I'm only 40, but I remember that fad. Holy mystical Chariots of the Gods powers, Batman.

Rick - rolling my eyes as I write this
 
rbmcmjr live out in an area where everybody glows in the dark, no pyrimids but funny little domes everywhere.

rick - glows in dome
 
jokrswylde said:
Crisis averted! djolney got it right, I was rounding the edge due to not paying close enough tension to my angle on the strop. Thanks Jerry and skunk for the help, the stropping on the white sharpmaker rod brought the edge back to sic sharp in about 10 minutes......you guys should look into charging for your advice....it is invaluable. Again, thanks for the help!:D
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Bringing up an old one here:

How do you strop on the sharpmaker rod? Do you lay it flat and pull away from the edge, or is he just talking about following the directions on the sharpmaker?
 
Hey, I did an experiment in 6th grade using "Pyramid Water" versus regular water. It worked!

Of course, not one other variable was controlled - like location of the plants, soil type, other fertilization, etc.,

But I was convinced for a summer that it worked. Remember, Napoleon went inside the great pyramid overnight and came out white as a ghost. There MUST be power in them. LOL
 
xaman said:
Bringing up an old one here:

How do you strop on the sharpmaker rod? Do you lay it flat and pull away from the edge, or is he just talking about following the directions on the sharpmaker?
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I think in the context they were talking about was to strope the blade with a cermic rod. If you didnt have one, then use the white rod from the Sharpmaker instead. Just use it to strope the blade. :thumbup:
 
xaman said:
Sorry for the dumb question ---- but what exactly does "strop" mean??? :confused:
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No worries. There are no dumb questions.
Normally when you shapen with a stone, you use a motion that seems to "cut the stone" with the blade. So if you are holding the knife still you will move the stone from edge to spine.

Stroping is just the opposite. A good way is to put some sandpaper (~300 grit) on a mousepad and "drag" the knife edge across it while holding it to whatever angle you want on the edge. This motion is from spine towards the edge. You can also use a strip of leather to strope with. Place a strip of leather on a flat surface and apply some buffing/cutting compound on the leather and use the same "dragging" motion across the leather.
You can also strope with a ceramic rod or a steel rod. These methods do not remove (hardly)any metal. These are used when an edge on a sharp knife gets "rolled" so by stroping with steel/ceramic you "push" the rolled edge back into place. Therefore the knife is sharp and ready to go again without actually removing any metal! :thumbup: ;)

Hope that helps! :thumbup:
 
That helps and confirms what I was thinking... But specifically for the Sharpmaker, do you strop with the white rod flat (horizontal), or with it in place at the 30 of 40 degree angle.

If you strop with it flat, how do you cover the entire blade? Do you strop only one section at a time, or are you trying to move the entire blade across the rod?

THANKS!
 
With an Asymetrical Grind it is easy, just freehand Strop, there is a "Feel" to it When the angle is right.

With a Grind that is convex and the same on both sides it is a little more work.

Yes, Cover the length of the blade with each pass if you can, if not just try to do about the same number of passes as you cover the blade edge.

I tend to move the Rod not the blade.
 
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