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Satori - try cutting the linseed oil "in half" with acetone...that might help it penetrate. Or mix it 2:1 with Tung Oil and put in a little acetone (my version of the Walosi special).
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I hope Dan Koster wasn't...
- Thread starter SASSAS
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RF,
Khuks are funny things. Horn is a funny thing as well. For that matter, cracks are funny in of as themselves. You might have a horn handle that doesn't need a thing done to it. you might be able to take it to the jungle then touch down in the desert with no ill effect. Or, you might soak it for 4 days straight, take it out and use it and the thing splits right down the middle. Natural materials can be unpredictable.
That being said a crack is NOT the end of the world, nor is the handle ruined. Some horn handles just have expand and crack a bit. Just like Uncle Bob's belt buckle after Thanksgiving dinner
a crack is no biggie. usually, a crack needs nothing more than a touch of super glue to fill it, then sanded flush. they usually never go anywhere.
I'll out it this way, i have a horn handled AK that was cracked to begin with, then was tossed end over end down the face of a cliff (STILL angry at my friend for that one). it's held together with JB weld and electrical tape. The thing is rock solid and i have no reservations about using it as hard as i can.
Jake
Khuks are funny things. Horn is a funny thing as well. For that matter, cracks are funny in of as themselves. You might have a horn handle that doesn't need a thing done to it. you might be able to take it to the jungle then touch down in the desert with no ill effect. Or, you might soak it for 4 days straight, take it out and use it and the thing splits right down the middle. Natural materials can be unpredictable.
That being said a crack is NOT the end of the world, nor is the handle ruined. Some horn handles just have expand and crack a bit. Just like Uncle Bob's belt buckle after Thanksgiving dinner
a crack is no biggie. usually, a crack needs nothing more than a touch of super glue to fill it, then sanded flush. they usually never go anywhere. I'll out it this way, i have a horn handled AK that was cracked to begin with, then was tossed end over end down the face of a cliff (STILL angry at my friend for that one). it's held together with JB weld and electrical tape. The thing is rock solid and i have no reservations about using it as hard as i can.
Jake
Walking Man
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Next time, you need to tell the newbs to go on a hunt for snipe oil.
After all it's the best and they shouldn't stop searching or calling hardware stores until they find some.
After all it's the best and they shouldn't stop searching or calling hardware stores until they find some.
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Walking Man said:Next time, you need to tell the newbs to go on a hunt for snipe oil.
After all it's the best and they shouldn't stop searching or calling hardware stores until they find some.
Just make sure the snipe oil is fresh squeezed, it can go rancid if stored too long.
Sarge
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- Jun 16, 2003
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Elbow grease.
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- May 28, 2003
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I read years ago to soak buffalo horn in olive oil to preserve it. I have a jar of cheap olive oil for that purpose that must be 20 years old, and it's not turned rancid (well, I wouldn't use it on a salad, but it doesn't stink too bad). I clamp the blade in a padded vise with the handle submerged in oil completely. Leave it for a couple of days. Never had a problem and I have a couple of horn handled knives from the 70's so treated. That's a lot of dry Chicago winters and humid summers to have gone through.
I agree with the steel wool comment to make the horn "grippier." 4/0 is about right. I usually do some file work to clean up the rings - although they are coming in with much better finishes than before. That means some sanding to get out the file marks, and then the final steel wool rub.
For wood handles I use 1 part tung oil, 1 part spar varnish, 1 part mineral spirits. Wipe on, wait 10 - 15 minutes, wipe off. Repeat until you get the finish you want. Careful disposing of your oily rags. They spontaneously ignite if left in a wad.
I agree with the steel wool comment to make the horn "grippier." 4/0 is about right. I usually do some file work to clean up the rings - although they are coming in with much better finishes than before. That means some sanding to get out the file marks, and then the final steel wool rub.
For wood handles I use 1 part tung oil, 1 part spar varnish, 1 part mineral spirits. Wipe on, wait 10 - 15 minutes, wipe off. Repeat until you get the finish you want. Careful disposing of your oily rags. They spontaneously ignite if left in a wad.
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- Oct 25, 2004
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BruiseLeee said:
You're killing me, Bruise.
But you did touch on the one advantage Hooflex has over Ballistol that no one can argue - I've never heard of anyone gagging when they smelled Hooflex.
Good tip on the acetone, Dan. That's one of the things that I love about the Walosi mix - it soaks in to nearly anything. (It seems to take its sweet time drying, though.)
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- Oct 18, 2001
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Hey....I like the smell of Ballistol !!
smells sweet like candy to me!
smells sweet like candy to me!