I just got a Dremel!


Platinum Member
Feb 25, 1999
So far, I've used it to put a razor-sharp edge on an axehead I thought was beyond help, and to remove the secondary edge bevel on an Emerson CQC7, making it into a useful cutting tool. What are your top three attachments? (So far, all I have are an aluminum oxide grinding stone and a felt polisher)

I consider the Dremel "the worst tool for nearly every job." By that, I mean it does almost everything worse than a tool designed for that specific task, but the point is it does almost everything! I loved mine so much I upgraded to the Heavy-Duty Flex-Shaft tool. Not as portable, but oh! what a beast!

One thing the Dremel actually does darn well is fine contour sanding. I can't get enough variations of those little tiny drum mandrels, and go through the sanding drums like water on some days.

The cutoff wheels are awesome, too! You can cut through (honestly!) anything with them. Bob Engnath (he will be missed) even recommended cutting barstock quickly and cheaply by scoring it halfway through with one of these wheels and then simply breaking it.

I guess my third choice would be the tiny buffing wheels. They get into spaces nothing else will - kinda the only way to follow-up on the sanding drums!

My favorite "Dremel moment" was when my friends were moving and they decided to lock their truck while taking a break from loading it. They attached the padlock upside down (lousy design) so that the keyhole was blocked! I quickly got my Dremel and, with sparks flying over my head and impressing the neighbors, it cut through the hardened steel loop in literally 15 seconds. I want a cape and a shirt with a big "D" on it so I can be "Dremel Man!"


(Why else would a bear want a pocket?)
Burke watch out...Dremels have a tendency to start themselves at two in the morning and dremel things throughout the house..
Can you hear them screaming in the background..YIKES I've gone mad

"The first step is to admit you have a dremel problem"
I recently used my Dremel to get rid of the poorly designed(in my opinion)extra bit of G-10 on the right side handle of a Spyderco Renegade.Whatever reason it was there for I don't know because it made the knife feel "not right" in the hand. After a few minutes of careful grooving and beveling with the Dremel, and a little wet sanding to bring back the color and smoothness now both sides are identical and it is now a super knife.

I recall a rumor a few years ago that the Renegade was originally intended to be a liner-lock, but that this made the design way too close to the AFCK and it was changed to a lockback at the last minute. Would the bit you're talking about be the counterpart to the odd liner-lock-like cutout on the left (non-clip) side scale? Where one might imagine accessing a liner-lock if the knife had one? Just curious.


(Why else would a bear want a pocket?)
Congrats! We use commercial style dremel tools at work and I loved them so much I got myself one. It doesn't matter if you buy a std Dremel brand or a nicer Fordom. My favorite attachents are the 1/8" shanked bi- directional solid carbide tips that come to a tapered cone and the larger polishing tips that are 3/8" OD bullet shapes for polishing anything (when used with a fine rogue). As you practice on less valiable items you will learn that you will use the tool to remove material in one direction (conventional cutting where you use the tool in the same direction as the tip is spinning). If you go straight down it is hard to control in harder materials: try going at things at a slight angle. Steady hands help and you can use your body or some otehr object as a brace instead of free handing in the wind. Try varying the speed of the dremel style tool to get the best finish. Years ago I used a carbide tool and actually made notches in a Gerber MKI on one if the two sides to work as a saw blade.
Practice on less valuable things first!

That is exactly what it looks like. I think by the time they figured out they wanted to go with a top lock, the handles were already produced. I have both the Renegade and the AFCK, and when held next to each other they could pass for brothers. The differences being blade style and lock type. Now that I have "fixed" the Renegade, it is a much improved knife. Only problem is you can't flick it open no where near as quick as the BM.

BTW, Which knife came first? And Sal, feel free to comment.

[This message has been edited by Jailhack (edited 20 June 1999).]
I'll move the Renegade question to the Spydie forum. I'm pretty sure the AFCK was first, and part of my anti-Renegade bias comes from feeling like it was close to a knock-off. Now we can get the real story...


(Why else would a bear want a pocket?)
I refer to my Dremel as the "lotta dammage real fast" tool since you can really screw things up with one really quickly. But, having said that, I wouldn't give mine up.

The cutoff wheels are just awesome -- hands down the best Dremel bit. These things cut like a hot knife through butter (obligatory knife reference).

Just a few weeks ago, I had yet another phone line put in. When the technician arrived, he needed to get into the service entrance box which I had locked with a paddle lock. I couldn't find the key anywhere. Since this guy is costing me $65/hour, I wasn't gonna look long. I whipped out my Dremel and cut that hardened steel shackle in less than one minute.

Like everything on a Dremel, the cutoff wheels take a bit of practice to learn, since they shatter easily.

Forget about the cloth polishing wheels. They fly apart spewing threads everywhere in a matter of seconds. Maybe I've been doing something wrong, but that's been my experience. The felt wheels work nicely, though.

The Dremel is really a very primitive tool. The skill/art is entirely in the hands of the user. It takes practice to develope a good touch with a Dremel. Don't start on anything you're not willing to destroy.

The Dremel has no safety guards (this is a tool from the same era that brought us lawn darts). So, be careful and wear good cloths. I have Dremelled my leg and my hand more than once (nothing serious, thankfully). Oh, and always, always wear eye protection. The grinding bits can explode, the cutoff wheels shatter, and any bit can break.


OK Dremel addicts,

Where's the best place online to buy Dremel bits, stones, cutoff wheels, etc?

I don't use enough to make it worth the effort and postage to look online for Dremel bits. Home Depot stocks a good selection. Sears also has bits for their similar tool (probably a relabeled Dremel).

I tried using the cloth wheel, it is the closest thing to putting a cat in a lawnmower. There were strings everywhere. I'm gonna stick to the felt wheels.
Yeah, by "buffing wheels" I was thinking mostly of the felt types. I have used the cloth ones with some success, but I work in a messy old basement where the "shedding" isn't much of an issue. It slows down considerably after the first five minutes of use, but you always do seem to get a few strings in your hair

As folks have mentioned, eye protection s critical. Also, many of these bits (cutoff wheels especially) can throw quite a shower of material and/or sparks. You should always be aware of where this is going and alter your position to direct most of it to the most suitable place. As much fun as it is to throw sparks over your shoulder, it's often not advisable indoors. When altering your angle, though, don't use the tool so it cuts in a direction that will carry it towards you should it encounter resistance or your grip slip.

Just a spinning shaft - simplest, most versatile power tool imaginable. Cool, eh?


(Why else would a bear want a pocket?)
I wonder if those cloth wheels work better on the newer Dremels with variable speed. I have just the old "on/off" variety.

I agree that the spewwing slows down after a minute of so, but that's just because there's nothing left.

Maybe I'm doing something wrong. Any suggestions?

The cut-off wheels are by far the best bit for a Dremel. I once used it to cut exhaust piping on my car. A trick I do to toughen up the cut-off wheel is double them up, this way they are less resisitant to breaking.
An excellent suggestion, Mr. Murray. I'll have to try that.

I'm sure glad this topic is open - I got the Sears clone for father's day for my Bonsai!

I just can't tell the dfference betwen all the tiny pieces.