I keep dinging the top of my blades!

[Maelstrom78]

While doing handle work I have a hard time with the transition from scales/bolster to blade. This last one was better but I can still see a small "wave".

In thinking now when I have the scales profiled to the blade I continue the profile on the top of the blade towards the tip to smooth things out.

This one I made for my uncles huge hands. I kind of dig the large handle though. It's really comfortable. For newer makers (I'm new as well) you really need to take more material off of the corners of your handles than you think.

But I digress. Any hints to avoid dinging the top scales to blade transition?

 

[Ken H>]

I don't have a comment on the dings, but the knife sure looks good. I especially like the two different layers of wood.

Ken H>

 

[i4Marc]

That's a fine looking knife. If you are profiling the handle after glue-up you can do the transition into the spine on the belt if you have the confidence. If not the best thing to do usually is get it close then slow down. Do the rest by hand with files and sandpaper. Get it very close with smooth cutting files then go to your coarser grits of sandpaper around a hard, flat sanding block. Then progress up the grits when appropriate.

 

[Maelstrom78]

Thanks guys.

Specs are:
Aldo1084
Black linen micarta scales and bolsters
Natural canvas micarta liner
Brass and black g10b spacers
Brass pins and tube

First handle with almost no hand sanding. Thank goodness for my small wheel attachment and variable speed!

I did use a gloved hand behind the slack portion of the belt though at times and that worked well through 800 and then green compound and buff.

 

[john april]

maybe using the wheel or slack belt is making the wave ? i think you are talking about a dip in the spine on top of the knife. i would use a flat platen and rock the spine gently, tip to pommel. you won't get any dips that way, but if you hold it steady and don't rock it, you will have a flat spot. i am kind of new to knife making, ( 83 knives so far) but every time i got a dip with a wheel, and tried to fix it with the wheel, i ended up with a roller coaster lol.

 

[AVigil]

What Woodster said.

Carefully use the flat platen and blend in the scales and bolster to the top of the spine.

 

[Maelstrom78]

I'm going to have to do that guys. I'll use low speed and like a 400 grit belt or something on the platen and go slow to blend the top of the bolster into the top of the spine.

Thanks!

 

[AVigil]

I'm going to have to do that guys. I'll use low speed and like a 400 grit belt or something on the platen and go slow to blend the top of the bolster into the top of the spine.

Thanks!

Just be sure the blade is vertical along the platen. I get very close with 50 grit, then kiss up to it with 100 and from there 220 and 400 until every thing is smooth.

 

[Maelstrom78]

Thanks man. Yeah the keeping the spine perpendicular to the platen is going to be the tricky part. Well practice makes perfect!

 

[Rick Marchand]

I did use a gloved hand behind the slack portion of the belt though at times and that worked well through 800 and then green compound and buff.

This part made me cringe. Variable speed or not, please don't put your hand(especially gloved) behind the belt or anywhere near pinch points.

Those waves are the result of chatter. It can be avoided with a little experimentation. Some good suggestions so far.

 

[Maelstrom78]

This part made me cringe. Variable speed or not, please don't put your hand(especially gloved) behind the belt or anywhere near pinch points.

.

Yeah bonehead move. It was on the longest part of the belt (grinder was horizontal) so I did have some room but it's just asking for trouble.

Upon reflection I could easily make a "finger " with a felt pad that could bolt to the table and adjust to push into the belt and accomplish the same thing without endangering my digits.

Thanks for the words of wisdom!