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I like Lockbacks...Here's why...
- Thread starter Glenridgerich
- Start date
Will Power
Gold Member
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- Jan 18, 2007
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- 33,363
Looks like all us closet Lockback fans are coming out now 
after years of disapproval from purists
I've always liked them for the reasons I stated earlier. I've never been able to decide if I prefer single-blades or multis for instance, it's a whim thing and lock backs are a response to that too. They are much safer to close and I have been in a situation where despite using a slip joint correctly, the blade has got jammed in grippy material and made for a potentially nasty situation. But, we are all different, and our dexterity and reflexes play a role too.:thumbup:
after years of disapproval from purists I've always liked them for the reasons I stated earlier. I've never been able to decide if I prefer single-blades or multis for instance, it's a whim thing and lock backs are a response to that too. They are much safer to close and I have been in a situation where despite using a slip joint correctly, the blade has got jammed in grippy material and made for a potentially nasty situation. But, we are all different, and our dexterity and reflexes play a role too.:thumbup:
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
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- 13,437
The last time I cut myself as a result of opening (or in this case, closing) a folding knife, it was with a lockback. It was a Moki folder with a very sharp VG-10 blade, and it took a divot out of my finger with just the little bit of light closing snap that 'should be' (but wasn't) safer for my fingers, as compared to a slipjoint.
The light opening pull of a lockback can definitely be easier to manage, as compared to many slipjoint knives. But, as regards the closing snap, I tend to equate the lighter (and allegedly 'safer') closing snap of a lockback with a dangerously false sense of security. The only way to make it 'safe' when opening or closing, is to do it in such a way as to keep the fingers entirely out of the way.
Small lockbacks with very stiff or stubborn-to-unlock locks can themselves be tricky to handle, as there's not a lot of grip on real small ones, and with a stiff lock, can be difficult to disengage safely. I've had some small (& especially narrow) ones try to twist sideways when attempting to disengage the lock, which usually results in a loss of control & grip on the handle.
When I close a slipjoint, I have all fingers of the hands to the spine side of the blade (edge UP) and on the SIDES of the handle, and I lever the blade to 1/2 closed by pressing the spine against the base of my (right) index finger, just above the knuckle, with the thumb and middle finger of my right hand gripping the sides of the handle just below the bolsters at the pivot end. When the blade is at 1/2 closed, I pinch it with my (right hand) thumb and index finger and close it the rest of the way, with all of my (left hand) fingers still gripping the SIDES of the handle. Done this way, there's literally no way to cut myself, as there are no fingers or knuckles in the path of the closing blade.
David
The light opening pull of a lockback can definitely be easier to manage, as compared to many slipjoint knives. But, as regards the closing snap, I tend to equate the lighter (and allegedly 'safer') closing snap of a lockback with a dangerously false sense of security. The only way to make it 'safe' when opening or closing, is to do it in such a way as to keep the fingers entirely out of the way.
Small lockbacks with very stiff or stubborn-to-unlock locks can themselves be tricky to handle, as there's not a lot of grip on real small ones, and with a stiff lock, can be difficult to disengage safely. I've had some small (& especially narrow) ones try to twist sideways when attempting to disengage the lock, which usually results in a loss of control & grip on the handle.
When I close a slipjoint, I have all fingers of the hands to the spine side of the blade (edge UP) and on the SIDES of the handle, and I lever the blade to 1/2 closed by pressing the spine against the base of my (right) index finger, just above the knuckle, with the thumb and middle finger of my right hand gripping the sides of the handle just below the bolsters at the pivot end. When the blade is at 1/2 closed, I pinch it with my (right hand) thumb and index finger and close it the rest of the way, with all of my (left hand) fingers still gripping the SIDES of the handle. Done this way, there's literally no way to cut myself, as there are no fingers or knuckles in the path of the closing blade.
David
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I've never been one to keep long fingernails, and when I came across the bucklite when I was a teenager, I thought it was the greatest thing because I could open it by just pinching the blade. I like a lot of patterns now, but don't gravitate too far from a buck lock back style. It really doesn't have much to do with the locking feature. I've never had a slipjoint close on me either, opening the smallest of the small seems to be my downfall 
That small pen blade on the peanut with that half stop, thats what I have to watch out for!
That small pen blade on the peanut with that half stop, thats what I have to watch out for!
Buzzbait
Gold Member
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- Feb 25, 2001
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- 6,732
I'm a multi-blade slipjoint lover, so lockbacks are few and far between in my EDC. I do have some cub scout knives with liner locking screwdrivers and awls, which are absolutely awesome little EDC knives. I even have a Camillus-made Crosman scout with a linerlocking blade. But I mostly just carry standard non-locking scouts, as I prefer the larger 3 5/8" size.
I do carry a lockback in my pack though, when I'm out hiking and camping in the mountains, far from civilization. When it comes to whittling tent poles, cooking tripods, and other large tasks, I prefer the safety of a lockback. It's usually a Buck 110 with either a BG-42 or D2 blade, or a Mudbug locking sodbuster. Mostly the Mudbug these days, since it's so much lighter.
I do carry a lockback in my pack though, when I'm out hiking and camping in the mountains, far from civilization. When it comes to whittling tent poles, cooking tripods, and other large tasks, I prefer the safety of a lockback. It's usually a Buck 110 with either a BG-42 or D2 blade, or a Mudbug locking sodbuster. Mostly the Mudbug these days, since it's so much lighter.
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Buzzbait-nice mudbug! And of course our old blue friend 
. Some quality 110's as well.
Rishma and Irona-if I find a good locking awl I'll be sure to pass it on, or start a thread. I actually started one,prob long buried now, about such a creature. Several very knowledgeable folks commented, including Waynorth, and the consensus was that there isn't one. Closest,IIRC, was the blue Cub Scout, but I could be wrong. I've spoken with a feller who mods TL-29's, who said he'd be willing to give her a go, once I got the money together
Thanks, Neal
. Some quality 110's as well.Rishma and Irona-if I find a good locking awl I'll be sure to pass it on, or start a thread. I actually started one,prob long buried now, about such a creature. Several very knowledgeable folks commented, including Waynorth, and the consensus was that there isn't one. Closest,IIRC, was the blue Cub Scout, but I could be wrong. I've spoken with a feller who mods TL-29's, who said he'd be willing to give her a go, once I got the money together
Thanks, Neal
With a lockback (i.e., not a liner- or frame-lock), I find the pressure required to unlock the blade can vary greatly from one knife to the next, even within a given make and model. For example, I've experienced significant variation in this among Buck 110s of various ages.
I've also gotten some lockbacks (not from Buck) that lock up so tightly there's an audible click when you finally depress the unlock-bar forcefully enough to free the nubbin from the tang notch. For me, that's enough to retire a knife from use permanently.
As a result, I have become very reluctant to plunk down money online or through a catalogue for any lockback knife. I simply need to handle it and work the action myself before committing to buy. More generally, this has made me less eager to embrace lockbacks as a design, but not enough to put me off them completely.
As for slipjoints, I've been using them safely for more than 55 years with no closing accidents and I close them the same way Pinnah describes. (Classic Boy Scout technique maybe?) In general, I prefer a slipjoint, and that preference is reinforced because I find single-blade knives (as most locking ones are) to be less useful on a day-to-day basis than multiple-blade ones. I should explain here that my EDC consists of a 4-blade Army engineer's knife (WW2 Camillus) and a Vic Classic. So one-blade jobs of any kind are discriminated against; not "never carried," just not frequently carried.
So for me, it's a qualified relationship when it comes to locking knives.
I've also gotten some lockbacks (not from Buck) that lock up so tightly there's an audible click when you finally depress the unlock-bar forcefully enough to free the nubbin from the tang notch. For me, that's enough to retire a knife from use permanently.
As a result, I have become very reluctant to plunk down money online or through a catalogue for any lockback knife. I simply need to handle it and work the action myself before committing to buy. More generally, this has made me less eager to embrace lockbacks as a design, but not enough to put me off them completely.
As for slipjoints, I've been using them safely for more than 55 years with no closing accidents and I close them the same way Pinnah describes. (Classic Boy Scout technique maybe?) In general, I prefer a slipjoint, and that preference is reinforced because I find single-blade knives (as most locking ones are) to be less useful on a day-to-day basis than multiple-blade ones. I should explain here that my EDC consists of a 4-blade Army engineer's knife (WW2 Camillus) and a Vic Classic. So one-blade jobs of any kind are discriminated against; not "never carried," just not frequently carried.
So for me, it's a qualified relationship when it comes to locking knives.
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Chui
Gold Member
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- Jul 10, 2012
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My most favourite - to play with - backlock is actually a Byrd Cara-Cara..........it is so smooth and just plain fantastic to fiddle in the fingers
However, of all my bought-from-USA folders, one of the most coveted by far, is the Oeser backlock Lanny Clip - geez, what a piece o' kit Simply, stunning
If you guys understand the expression, forgive me, lockbacks can be a bit 'Marmite' though........some can be so wonderful, others, just plain carp.
However, of all my bought-from-USA folders, one of the most coveted by far, is the Oeser backlock Lanny Clip - geez, what a piece o' kit
Simply, stunningIf you guys understand the expression, forgive me, lockbacks can be a bit 'Marmite' though........some can be so wonderful, others, just plain carp.
Another lockback fan here!
One thing I like about lockbacks, when they lock up it tends to be a much more solid lock than other types, especially a liner lock. Just my opinion and experience -- not based on any scientific evaluation -- but there's less likelihood of blade play when a lockback is locked.
Another thing: When a lockback is locked, there's rarely any doubt about it. Partly because there is a bit more manipulation involved.
Now, if only more lockbacks came with one-hand opening features. The ideal for me would be something like my Kershaw 1993-2 Gentleman's Folder with a Spydie hole opener...! :thumbup:
One thing I like about lockbacks, when they lock up it tends to be a much more solid lock than other types, especially a liner lock. Just my opinion and experience -- not based on any scientific evaluation -- but there's less likelihood of blade play when a lockback is locked.
Another thing: When a lockback is locked, there's rarely any doubt about it. Partly because there is a bit more manipulation involved.
Now, if only more lockbacks came with one-hand opening features. The ideal for me would be something like my Kershaw 1993-2 Gentleman's Folder with a Spydie hole opener...! :thumbup:
