I like this!

David Nowlin

David Nowlin

Joined
Jan 17, 2018
Messages
2,781
Buck 110 Hunter Sports Pro. EEAEC2EE-4ABE-494F-ACD9-C82F9305EBB3.jpeg
I liked it when i first saw it offered but it was expensive and the Buck collectors club discount was not available for it as i recall.
When i saw this today at a small town General Store and the price marked was very reasonable i said why not. This will get some pocket time for sure.
One question is does anyone know what size torx the blade tension nut takes. Definitely need to loosen it up so i can one handed open it. Mine seem to be too small or too big. I guess i will head to Lowes tomorrow and see what it takes.
Sorry just curious.
 
Thanks i’ll check that as i have those and they didn’t fit? I’m a little tired from all the driving i did the last few days so maybe just not sharp at the moment no pun intended!
Also i tried to find this knife on Buck.com and couldn’t but just happened to do a web search and it appears on the buck site. And what i thought was a discontinued or limited run knife was
Incorrect. Looks like i got close to the same deal as if i bought it with club discount. Difference is i am not waiting for it to ship.
Also also i read many great reviews and a couple bad ones on how stiff to open with thumb stud and how hard it is to disengage the back lock.
Mine is very stiff. My hope is loosing/tuning the blade screw will at least make the blade easier/safer to open. The lock is another story.
 
Mine is smooth, easy to open one handed, and the lock is no stiffer than any other new 110 I’ve had, but it was bathed in a noticeable amount of oil.
 
mine isn't to tight. easy to open via the thumbstud.....and smooth.
 
Before you loosen the pivot you might want to push the lock spring down just past flush. Those lock springs can be like a scrub brake on the tang cam. I’ve done this on several of my 110s and it helps a lot.
 
So depress the lock release a little and hold whilst loosing the pivot screw? I already played with the pivot screw as once i found out the T-10 answer (thanks Jeff) and was able to locate some T-10 bits. Doesn’t fix the problem unfortunately. If tightened snug it definitely makes it really hard to open but playing with the tension, to loosening it a lot makes no difference.
I’ll definitely try the oil route, just wanted to see if this step would work first. 👍🏻
 
My original 110’s i open both hands but tend to close one handed by depressing the lock while pressing top of blade on side of leg then re-sheathing it. Just the way I’ve always done it.
 
I imagine breaking in the surface of where the blade and lockbar contact each other (and breaking in the spring tension of the lockbar) will make things smoother; but out of the box the friction and the lockbar spring tension are holding the blade closed more tightly you'd like.
 
Okay got it oiled and working on breaking it in.
It seems that the worse resistance is as you apply pressure to the thumb stud it opens an 1/8 -1/4 inch then binds. Which if you’re not careful you can slip your thumb into the gap and the possibility of your thumb being sliced is increased.
 
Last edited:
I thought that the bushing in the pivot mechanism is slightly longer than the blade thickness and as such, provides the tolerance for operation. If that is the case, loosening the pivot screw wouldn't change the friction on the blade. When I peened a new pivot pin in a classic 112, I didn't use a spacer to provide tolerance and the action turned out bang on. Now that I think about it, a smart fellow would have measured the bushing and the tang before getting out the hammer.
 
As I continue to work this blade i think it would have been better to not have oiled it first? For break in i would think more friction would work better. Sudden thought. Wash oil out and maybe install a few drops of diamond spray i have that i spray on a strop? Is that too aggressive?
I called Buck and they are saying to send it to them for possible replacement.
I will say it does seem to be getting a little better.
 
Reminds me of doing a trigger job on a revolver. Polishing all the contact parts for smoother operation.
 
David Nowlin said:
Okay got it oiled and working on breaking it in.
It seems that the worse resistance is as you apply pressure to the thumb stud it opens an 1/8 -1/4 inch then binds. Which if you’re not careful you can slip your thumb into the gap and the possibility of your thumb being sliced is increased.
Click to expand...
My first 112 Ranger Pro was exactly the same fresh out of the box and cut me a few times when I tried to open it with oily/dirty fingers. I worked the blade carefully at least 1000 times while sitting on the couch over the course of a few weeks. It helped a bit but the blade would still bind. I stopped carrying it for this reason.

Once I installed a Qwik stud, everything changed. The deployment is very smooth and I don't notice the bind due to the stud. It turned into my most-carried folder.

I say give it time and oil. It should get better.
 
Thanks Jeff. What’s a Qwik stud and is it easy to de install this one and install the Q stud?
My son has a nice benchmade with a stud opener and i have a hard time getting the right angle. Stud openers aren’t my favorite way.
I did wash it out real good and tried a few drops of the diamond strop juice. Not sure anything changed and recommend not doing it as it can scratch the tang IJS?? 🥴 Live and learn.
DN
 
Last edited:
AntDog AntDog thanks. When i walked up to the door i saw it was a gun-shop too. Lots and lots of guns. So i knew they would have a ton of knives.
Big displays (factory type) of Case, Benchmade, Sog and Victorinox. Buck display was the only one that wasn’t an actual Buck Factory display.
I find here in North Carolina Case is king. No one seems to have Buck just Walmart and the big national stores.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top