I like this!

David Nowlin said:
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Okay one of these? Is it just better than the one the knife comes with?
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That's what I installed on my older model Ranger Pro that did not come with a stud.

The stud on yours should be just fine and I wouldn't even attempt to remove it.

If the binding truly bothers you, sending it back to Buck for replacement is a viable option. Otherwise you could keep the knife for awhile and see if it breaks in to your liking.
 
I’d flush it out well with WD-40, then throw a bunch of tri-flow in the pivot and work it like crazy. Should loosen up and get slick as a goose once the parts are worn in and the tri-flow dries with all the Teflon in it.
 
David Nowlin said:
Okay got it oiled and working on breaking it in.
It seems that the worse resistance is as you apply pressure to the thumb stud it opens an 1/8 -1/4 inch then binds. Which if you’re not careful you can slip your thumb into the gap and the possibility of your thumb being sliced is increased.
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Yeah watch your thumb. Oiling might delay the break in on friction parts.
 
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The Sports pro has a longer flat spot with a sharp transition to the rounded part so as i open it there is heavy resistance then as i force it over that transition to the rounded part where it has much less resistance abruptly.
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My 110 transition area is shorter and hardly any resistance. No notchy feeling on the brass example.
Sorry it’s hard to capture what i’m talking about but you can sure feel the difference.
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i made the mistake of leaving this one in a leather sheath too long. I see i missed a little of the green stuff when i cleaned and polished it.
Can’t really see it with a naked eye.
 

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Let me be clear. I am a long time lover of all things Buck and will always be. I do not want to seem like i am bashing my favorite and longest used knife company far from it. I / we will figure this out but in the meantime i will carry this proudly knowing that it will be a little slower in deployment and i’m sure over time i will learn to get my hand in the perfect position to do so.
I do have the offer to send it to Buck and i might still do that.
 
Definitely going to look into getting a few Qwik Studs for a couple of my 110/112’s that i carry. Just like the weight and the clip carry so much on this one. You would think my 112 Auto would be my top choice but i just really never got on with it like i thought i would.
 
David Nowlin said:
View attachment 2015468
The Sports pro has a longer flat spot with a sharp transition to the rounded part so as i open it there is heavy resistance then as i force it over that transition to the rounded part where it has much less resistance abruptly.
View attachment 2015472
My 110 transition area is shorter and hardly any resistance. No notchy feeling on the brass example.
Sorry it’s hard to capture what i’m talking about but you can sure feel the difference.
View attachment 2015475
i made the mistake of leaving this one in a leather sheath too long. I see i missed a little of the green stuff when i cleaned and polished it.
Can’t really see it with a naked eye.
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I have to wonder if that’s a design choice?
 
I’m not a machinist but part of me wants to try and smooth that out. I say that as one reviewer said they had this problem and his replacement knife was no better.
If the 112 i have ordered is ok i’ll send this back.
If it’s the same I’ll consider working on making this one right. Funny i choose my most expensive 110 to do experimental surgery on? SMH
 
To reduce the spring tension on lock bar you can try leaving the blade partially open over. Ight. Check in the AM and repeat if needed.

Please be sure to place open blade in a safe place. Leaving exposed blades out is not a good habit to get I to.
 
T tiguy7 thats green patina in my new older brass drop point 110 not paint.
brough brough i have been doing that but not overnight just maybe a couple times for an hour at a time. I’ll try that overnight thing. Thanks.
 
I've done the surgery that you illustrated. Bear in mind that this portion of the tang provides the spring action that returns the blade to a closed position. My experiences have been successful, but I emphasize that I removed VERY little from the tang. I used a diamond hone, not a grinder and I tested my progress several times by reassembling the knife for a test. I polished the surface that I ground before each reassembly to get an accurate assessment of the operation. Take your time and your results should be satisfactory.
 
David Nowlin said:
T tiguy7 thats green patina in my new older brass drop point 110 not paint.
brough brough i have been doing that but not overnight just maybe a couple times for an hour at a time. I’ll try that overnight thing. Thanks.
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I am talking about the black stuff (CeraKote) not Verdigrris. One of the slowest 110 format knives that I ever had was a Model 560 “Ninja” Titan that had a black painted blade and black painted scales.
 
Ahh ok on the paint tiguy7
Bastler Bastler you did this on this sports pro model like mine? If so how easy is it to take apart?
To update you, i did some filing and then used a dremill tool on a 112 i use that has this same issue though not as notchy as my new sports pro and as a test it seems it will solve the problem. Only thing is it roughs up the inside of the brass bolster a little bit ( not too noticeable to my eyes) so i would need to take the blade out of the aluminum 110.
 
I looked at two Spyderco’s with the back lock system and there is no flat spot ahead of the radius part of the blade that the spring bar rides on like that of the Buck?
Not sure i need the Buck to snap closed more than it should be able to deploy quick and with minimal effort? And in a safe manor too!
 
David Nowlin said:
Ahh ok on the paint tiguy7
Bastler Bastler you did this on this sports pro model like mine? If so how easy is it to take apart?
To update you, i did some filing and then used a dremill tool on a 112 i use that has this same issue though not as notchy as my new sports pro and as a test it seems it will solve the problem. Only thing is it roughs up the inside of the brass bolster a little bit ( not too noticeable to my eyes) so i would need to take the blade out of the aluminum 110.
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I made this modification on two different knives, but not on a Buck, so I can't tell you specifically about your knife. I would think that the pivot and blade could be removed without great effort, especially since you have already turned the pivot screw. If you grind too much and ruin the blade, you could have Buck replace it for a fee.
 
Ahh ok. Thanks.
Yes at this time i am awaiting the 112 sports pro before i decide what my next move is.
 
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