I made a change to my KMG's small wheel attachment and....

Joined
Dec 10, 2005
Messages
79
I am surprised at the possibilities such a minor change in belt geometry seems to have opened up. It may just be the satisfaction gained from building a new tool that works as well as I had hoped, but I cant see a down side to using this thing.
 

Attachments

  • New KMG tool 002.jpg
    New KMG tool 002.jpg
    54 KB · Views: 302
The only thing i can see as a draw back is like a tire on your car you will have to replace the 2 wheels that are touching the grit side of the belt. But yes it looks like it can get into tight spots better now.
 
That is a good idea. When you own one you find that even with a 1/2" wheel you are limited to the belt angle. Might suggest using aluminum or steel idler wheels rather than rubber.
Let us know how they last please.
Good Mod...Thanks
 
I love it when a person thinks outside the belt! Yes, keep us posted as to how it holds up.
 
The only thing i can see as a draw back is like a tire on your car you will have to replace the 2 wheels that are touching the grit side of the belt.



I'll bet they last longer than you'd think.

b3_dbl_billy_fin_600.jpg



Great idea! Keep us informed of ways you've come up with to utilize it!
 
The Burr King 1400 series internal grinding attachment is similar as well, and actually was my inspiration. I do expect my wheels to wear faster than either the Bader or Burr King wheels used on their attachments because mine are very soft. Since I have four of them(and will pick up the available remaining four tomorrow) to play with, and since they are cheap, I thought I would run them until the aluminum core/hub is exposed...And keep on running them to see what happens. Worst case I can get aluminum wheels like the ones used on the KMG's platen or slack belt attachment.
 
I've wanted to do that for a long time, thanks for doing the hard part figuring it out! What did you use for the spindles on the small wheels?
 
Dave,
I used 1/2-13 all thread and cut a slight taper on the side of the nuts that butt up to the bearings inner rings. The bearings (and wheels) are metric and the inner diameter is slightly larger than the spindle so I had to shim it. Turns out that a 3/8" copper plumbing coupling was just right. With the copper "shim" and the tapered nuts, the wheels stay aligned on the spindles almost perfectly. I probably could have used something different for the spindles and achieved a better fit, but I wanted to keep things standardized in case I had to switch to Rob's wheels.
 
Back
Top