I need a knife

[DangerZone98]

Not sure if this is enough blade length for you, but perhaps a Becker BK2?

 

[not2sharp]

How about a Q225?
Link:
https://www.antiquesnavigator.com/d-40545/antique-ww2-cattaraugus-q225-survival-bowie-knife-old.html

n2s

 

[Bigfattyt]

If you use the aluminum pommel on the Thor Bowie from Fallkniven as a hammer you may not like the result.

Aluminum is soft. If you are hammering anything hard you will most likely ruin the pommel.

Another thing to consider, is that the VG10 core is not a tough steel. Very poor toughness, which is why it is laminated with softer tougher sides. Use it like a big knife, and you will be fine. Abuse it, and you will find it chips relatively easy. I used a vg1 laminated knife for years (not vg10). Was not afraid to chop with it at all.

I had a Busse KZII and a Busse FBMLE with prominent tangs. I'd use them as a skull craker or to break a window, crack a coconut or other tough material. Not great hammers, however. I had a poll Hawk for that.

I've always wanted a Thor from Fallkniven. The leather stacked handle is lovely. I had a laminated San Mai III Trailmaster from cold steel. I'd still have that knife if the handle had been stacked leather.

I still would not use the pommel to hammer with.

What has kept me from buying one is that for the price, I could buy a custom. In that price range you start getting into amazing custom territory.
Or other higher value brands (like CPK which are more like limited production, but a great value).


I've paid more for Busse, and used them hard, and sold them for what I had into them (mostly, though most have gone up in value after I sold).

 

[Mikel_24]

... I tend to beat the snot out of my knives, in construction, the feild, and my shop. ....

... I have had bad luck with Cold Steel and edge retention. .... I had to spend a lot of time sharpening it. Not cool.

After stating that you, basically, use your knife as a do-all-demolition tool... you complain about lack of edge retention... Edge retention and toughnes (which seems to be required for your uses) do not go together well. Some steels offer a good compromise of edge retention VS toughnes... but always talking about knife chores. If we start talking about prying open manhole covers or tank hatches... then I don't think they will be up to the task.

... I really need a heavier pommel that is well fixed(I have knocked them off.

Unless it is an integral design (such as the Drop Forged knife from Cold Steel mentioned above) with a differential heath treat to keep the pommel soft (otherwise it might shatter on impact) you are looking for a full tang knife and welded (not soldered) pommel with a flat wide end (otherwise it will be useless for hammering stuff). If both pieces are made o the same steel, differential heat treat is required, if they are made of different metals, depending on the weldability of the joint, you might experience fatigue cracks in the HAZ and premature breaking.

Driving a tent peg in the ground to anchor something in the field is ok for most pommels, hammering construction materials or steel... probably not. What do you exactly pound onto with your knife?

Mikel

 

[Old Biker]

I have two of their Machetes, good stuff. But this one's not really the size I am looking for.

Then how about the KA-BAR big brother? 9 1/2 inch blade.

 

[fishface5]

1. You are not going to find a blade that doesn't get dull or dinged from being used for non-blade purposes.
2. Don't use an aluminum pommel as a real hammer, that will make you sad.
3. A pinned pommel may get loose if abused too much. Is an extended tang big enough for your needs? If so look at something like a bk7 or bk9, or the mini-tank bk2.

(Busse, Swamp Rat and Carrothers are great but more expensive and may be harder to find)

 

[StoneAndSteel]

After stating that you, basically, use your knife as a do-all-demolition tool... you complain about lack of edge retention... Edge retention and toughnes (which seems to be required for your uses) do not go together well. Some steels offer a good compromise of edge retention VS toughnes... but always talking about knife chores.

I think this is going to be the biggest struggle what you're looking for, Hulk. Certain features in steel are inherently in conflict (edge retention is directly related to hardness, but hardness is in direct conflict with toughness). It's all about trade off's.

They've come up with other posters, but I would recommend a Busse for what you seem to be reaching for. INFI and SR101 are very tough AND easy to sharpen once dull. In my experience, SR101 has better edge retention. Not knowing more particulars about what you're cutting and how, I can't say what model. But I CAN say that my RMD has had the shit kicked out of it (I have had to redo the edge twice) and she's still a rock star. I worked construction for 12 years and there is nothing I did in those 12 years that the RMD couldn't swallow whole.

 

[Sharp & Fiery]

Found what you’re looking for. You can thank me later.

 

[cbach8tw]

Bk 9, or bk 7.

 

[Bigfattyt]

Might look at the drop forged survivalist or new drop forged bowie wirh the 9.5 inch blade. Solid, single piece 52100. Plenty of broad, wide exposed tang on the back end to hammer with.

52100 steel.