I need a little help hand sanding bevels

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paintballnsk

Joined
Apr 18, 2016
Messages
16
Hello,

I need some help hand finishing flat grind bevels that aren't full length. How do I keep a crisp grind line when hand sanding the blade? I've tried using blocks, but still it seems to always smooth out the grind line a little. So I've been resorting to finishing with Trizact A45 belts, but there's limitations to that. I'd like to finish at about 800 grit by hand and buff. I'm not interested in mirror polish, but it still needs to look nice.

Any tutorials you can point me to or techniques for setting up my hand setup that you could recommend? I'm clamping the knife to a 2x4 and putting it in a vice, and hand sanding each grit opposite the grain of the previous grit.

Thanks!
 
Here ya go :)

[video=youtube;4I4x4QLpfnk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I4x4QLpfnk[/video]


~Paul
My YT Channel Lsubslimed
... (It's been a few years since my last upload)
 
Would it be possible to set a sharpening system to the closest degree of the bevel and run a fine grit stone over it?
 
Nick's video is the gold standard for hand sanding how-to instruction.

You don't say whether you are just laying loose paper on a backing block, or whether you are gluing it down somehow. Gluing it down can be key if you want really crisp lines. Same with using paper on a sheet of glass to flatten handle slabs and such. Without glue there will be a little lift away from the support just passed the edge of whatever you are trying to make flat.
 
It was a good video. I bought some adhesive back wet/dry paper to try out his technique. I'll let ya know how it goes. It will be here in a couple days. I built a hand block similar to the ones he's using, and it still washed out the grind lines, but I was just using regular wet/dry paper and wrapping it as tight as I could. I noticed that 220 doesn't do it for me. It's gotta get up to like 500 or 800. The Trizak A45 looked waaay better than 220.

Anyone know a good supplier for adhesive backed wet/dry paper? It seems like most of what I'm looking for comes in discs. I want a roll. I didn't see the right stuff at trugrit.
 
paintballnsk said:
It was a good video. I bought some adhesive back wet/dry paper to try out his technique. I'll let ya know how it goes. It will be here in a couple days. I built a hand block similar to the ones he's using, and it still washed out the grind lines, but I was just using regular wet/dry paper and wrapping it as tight as I could. I noticed that 220 doesn't do it for me. It's gotta get up to like 500 or 800. The Trizak A45 looked waaay better than 220.

Anyone know a good supplier for adhesive backed wet/dry paper? It seems like most of what I'm looking for comes in discs. I want a roll. I didn't see the right stuff at trugrit.
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I would just use some spray adhesive like 3M super 77. It should hold tight but let you pull it off later if you need to replace.
 
I'm assuming I'll be changing it every 30 seconds or so. Does the spray adhesive leave a residue that's gonna build up on me?
 
paintballnsk said:
I'm assuming I'll be changing it every 30 seconds or so. Does the spray adhesive leave a residue that's gonna build up on me?
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With a light coat on just the paper you might be fine. Basically makes the sandpaper tacky rather than sticky. Any residue that stays can be removed with WD40 or orange cleaner.

I'm not as familiar with your exact setup but I've done the same to turn sandpaper into sharpening strips for a guided sharpening system. So while it's different, it should be applicable and cheaper than the pre-adhesive backed but YMMV.
 
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