I need a new knife to carry in my structure gear (firefighter turnouts)

If there's no blade length restrictions, a Vold Steel Voyager will work. The lock operates like a lockbank & the blade is heavy enough not requiring manual opening. A flick will inertia open it. My sample of XL Tanto does.

Other than that, a well worn Pacific Salt definitely is smooth enough to be wrist flicked. No rust, zero maintenance.
:thumbup:
Good luck!
 
Xm-18 designed by a firefighter for firefighters. Can't go wrong with a classic. Plus you get a discount.
 
Ok I've been a structural FF in an urban dept for 27 years 100's upon 100's fires . First there are is no folder that one can open and close easily with FF gloves on . Take a thick pair of leather gloves get them soaked , toss them over the pipes coming mg off the boiler to,dry, replete a few dozen times till they wear out and you need new ones .

It's hard enough to,properly grip an ax handle let alone a knife . These gloves are not like your leather work gloves way thicker.

If you,have to,go folder get one with a large handle and flipper , tie a loop of para cord on it and clip,that to,your bunker coat or scba and practice with your gloves on .

Kydex holds up just fine. Remember our helmets are plastic and face piece is rubber.....

You should consider a fixed blade in kydex sheath hanging from your gear as well, that's really the best way to,go for you .
 
Ok I've been a structural FF in an urban dept for 27 years 100's upon 100's fires . First there are is no folder that one can open and close easily with FF gloves on . Take a thick pair of leather gloves get them soaked , toss them over the pipes coming mg off the boiler to,dry, replete a few dozen times till they wear out and you need new ones .

It's hard enough to,properly grip an ax handle let alone a knife . These gloves are not like your leather work gloves way thicker.

If you,have to,go folder get one with a large handle and flipper , tie a loop of para cord on it and clip,that to,your bunker coat or scba and practice with your gloves on .

Kydex holds up just fine. Remember our helmets are plastic and face piece is rubber.....

You should consider a fixed blade in kydex sheath hanging from your gear as well, that's really the best way to,go for you .

you are spot on with your description of the gloves. They get so stiff they are almost painful sometimes. I can not imagine being on an urban department like you with 100's of structure fires. We get maybe 5-6 a year and I on average seem to go to about 3 a year... vegetation fires now... I have probably walked easily a couple hundred miles of mobile attack along side an engine on the end of a hose in 100 degree weather over the last six or seven years I have been on the department.

Chris "Anagarika";16878665 said:
If there's no blade length restrictions, a Vold Steel Voyager will work. The lock operates like a lockbank & the blade is heavy enough not requiring manual opening. A flick will inertia open it. My sample of XL Tanto does.

Other than that, a well worn Pacific Salt definitely is smooth enough to be wrist flicked. No rust, zero maintenance.
:thumbup:
Good luck!

Funny you mention the Voyager. A friend from my other job loaned me one to try and I was able to grip it with my gloves because of the large rough handle and the blade is heavy enough that it is easy to flick out and can be done even with the gloves. I can close it one handed (although with some difficulty) wearing gloves. So I bought one and right now this is what I am carrying.

This quest has turned me into a knife addict. Prior to this my edc was a Benchmade (Mini?) Barrage. I had a very old Spyderco and a couple of Kershaw that I used to carry back before the Benchmade. I ended up over the last month buying three Cold Steel knives, a Spyderco, a Spyderco/Byrd, a couple made in USA Kershaw knives, and a Zero Tolerance. Not to mention some knives I bought for home butchering this month... though these are unrelated to the folders I guess.
 
Like some others, I would strongly recommend a fixed blade. If it must be displayed anyway then you cannot beat a fixed blade for reliability, ease of use, and strength. I would also suggest a stainless blade so you know it is not going to rust and have a dull edge when you need it. The Fallkniven F1, S1, and maybe even the A1 deserve attention. Serrations or partial serrations would be useful but not many good fixed blades that I know of with serrations in stainless.

If you want a folder, then the Benchmade 915SBK-ORG or Benchmade 916SBK-ORG are great options.
 
Never used it on a structure fire, but for rescue and wildland, spyderco assist. I have the salt version without a cobra hood, but the spydie hole is sharp enough to catch on my gloves.

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Never used it on a structure fire, but for rescue and wildland, spyderco assist. I have the salt version without a cobra hood, but the spydie hole is sharp enough to catch on my gloves.

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I also use the Assist, it works good with the kevlar/leather gloves I use at work. Not just because of the spyderhole and cobra hood, but also for the size of the handle. I tried with the Endura, but the handle is so slim that the gloves are hindering the blade when I'm trying to open it with my thumb.

I have the orange vg10-version


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I also use the Assist, it works good with the kevlar/leather gloves I use at work. Not just because of the spyderhole and cobra hood, but also for the size of the handle. I tried with the Endura, but the handle is so slim that the gloves are hindering the blade when I'm trying to open it with my thumb.

I have the orange vg10-version.

Edit: the rounded tip on the Assist is also a must for me on a rescue knife..


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The folder does not need to be displayed but I am thinking about picking up a Spyderco Jumpmaster but have not wanted to lay down that kind of cash. That said, I have spent far more than that collectively over the last couple months so...
 
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