I need a new sharpener !
- Thread starter Kennieyk
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glockman99
RIP Dann, you were a good guy.
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I wouldn't bother with a "shapemaker", but the Spyderco Sharpmaker 204 is an excellent sharpener, and I highly recommend it.
Kennieyk,
Invest in several good stones. In the years of using knives I have tried most of the sharpening gizmos out there and keep coming back to stones.
There are afew folks that offer stones custom sized, my perferance is 3"w X 1"th X 12l. The hard and soft natural stones are a good start.
Handamerica makes a fine bench set.
Also to consider would be the bench setup that uses wet/dry sand paper. this same rig allow for the placement of a pad for convex edges, and leather hones.
You'll also develop the skill of hand sharpening.
Good luck.
Invest in several good stones. In the years of using knives I have tried most of the sharpening gizmos out there and keep coming back to stones.
There are afew folks that offer stones custom sized, my perferance is 3"w X 1"th X 12l. The hard and soft natural stones are a good start.
Handamerica makes a fine bench set.
Also to consider would be the bench setup that uses wet/dry sand paper. this same rig allow for the placement of a pad for convex edges, and leather hones.
You'll also develop the skill of hand sharpening.
Good luck.
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2001
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- 3,415
14yrs of freehand... I have a 204 sitting here for serrated edges, but thats all I use it on.
Just started using a strop every time I sharpen.
can sharpen pretty much anything on a benchstone, and have done pretty much everything. Current stones are 1"x2.5"x8", 2 sided combo... 200/300 and 500/800, as well as my 303mf spydie doublestuff.
Just started using a strop every time I sharpen.
can sharpen pretty much anything on a benchstone, and have done pretty much everything. Current stones are 1"x2.5"x8", 2 sided combo... 200/300 and 500/800, as well as my 303mf spydie doublestuff.
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I suck at hand sharpening. I cant keep a angle to save my life!
So i end up with a messed up blade and not all that sharpe! I like doing it with the lansky . it gave me new interest in knives .
I like knowing that i can get my knives back to hair shaving sharp.
If it was not for the lansky system I may just be someone who throws the knife in a box of junk when it got dull.
So i end up with a messed up blade and not all that sharpe! I like doing it with the lansky . it gave me new interest in knives .
I like knowing that i can get my knives back to hair shaving sharp.
If it was not for the lansky system I may just be someone who throws the knife in a box of junk when it got dull.
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The Sharpmaker is great. Of course, I'd suggest buying a few knives you won't care about wrecking to practice on.
Benchstones can be faster with harder and more wear-resistant steels. The trick, aside from patience and practice, is to scrub a burr on both sides of the blade with a coarse stone and, at a slightly higher angle, lightly cut into the fine stone. As someone who uses his Sharpmaker as a wheelchair or crutch, I freehand-sharpened my Schrade Sharpfinger into a hair-shaving edge after being frustrated with my inability to do so with the Sharpmaker. Trusting in your ability to do what men of both lesser and greater abilities have done is probably the highest hurdle. Luckily, getting ticked at a thick edge that'd take forever on the Sharpmaker will get you over it.
All of that said,
What's wrong with your Lansky? Maybe you could just add a few upgrade hones?
Benchstones can be faster with harder and more wear-resistant steels. The trick, aside from patience and practice, is to scrub a burr on both sides of the blade with a coarse stone and, at a slightly higher angle, lightly cut into the fine stone. As someone who uses his Sharpmaker as a wheelchair or crutch, I freehand-sharpened my Schrade Sharpfinger into a hair-shaving edge after being frustrated with my inability to do so with the Sharpmaker. Trusting in your ability to do what men of both lesser and greater abilities have done is probably the highest hurdle. Luckily, getting ticked at a thick edge that'd take forever on the Sharpmaker will get you over it.
All of that said,
What's wrong with your Lansky? Maybe you could just add a few upgrade hones?
What's wrong with Lansky? I've been using mine very successfully for years now. It cost like $24 and the stones look like they did when I first got it. I've debated to go with the Razors Edge equipment (I have and read the book), Apex (even years ago), and recently Spyderco Sharpmaker. I haven't seen enough reason to leave the Lansky. Although I did get two big DMT diamond hones to do my Mora collection (and it works great on them). Unfortunately, I'm not good enough yet freehand. I just got some diamond hones for the Lansky, and it works real good with those even when reprofiling large blades. I do move the jig (clamp) around a lot to maintain the same angle, so it is time consuming. It also doesn't work on real small blades ('cause the clamp can't grab them or certain blade shapes that can't be clamped. And I don't recommend the Lansky stones for serrated blades. They don't work for me. But all sharpeners have their own shortcomings.
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- Jun 9, 1999
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I upgraded from a Lansky to an Edge Pro and I've never looked back. They are expensive though. I'm toying around with the idea of getting some full size waterstones, maybe for Christmas. If you don't like free hand then the Edge Pro is about as good as it gets. It hurts your wallet but puts a smile on your face 
.
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- Feb 5, 2003
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Well for one thing then thumb screws on the rods never stay tight!
i have trouble getting the whole blade in one stroke! And i dont think i get the same angle on it . reason the stones very so much on the rods i can see there is a problem . I have lots of stones for it .Oh and i can see the rods have dents in them where the screw hits them . Seems very cheap to me.
i have trouble getting the whole blade in one stroke! And i dont think i get the same angle on it . reason the stones very so much on the rods i can see there is a problem . I have lots of stones for it .Oh and i can see the rods have dents in them where the screw hits them . Seems very cheap to me.
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Sounds fair enough. The few times I use a Lansky, I don't try to get the blade in one stroke. A Sharpmaker or other crock stick product will probably make you happier. I think you can get Lansky or Gatco versions for $8-20, but there's a lot to be said for the Sharpmaker.
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- Oct 4, 2002
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No clamping or other time consuming bothers. You just run the blade down the sticks. It's really too simple. I would recommend getting the diamond and ultrafine rods for the sharpmaker eventually. They are really worth it. The diamonds address the sharpmakers major fault...which is the ceramic rods are not coarse enough to reprofile an edge. The ultrafine isn't necessary, but can really make a hair popping edge on a knife!
-Kevin
-Kevin
PlaceKnives
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I've been using "Crock Sticks" from Lansky since I was a kid, it's fast and easy and sharpens everything I own, including knives I've made, custom knives, factory knives, carbon steel or stainless. I realy like them.
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- Aug 11, 1999
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For many if not most knife knuts, learning about knives eventually leads to learning how to sharpen freehand. (It usually coincides with when you run out of money to buy ...) Some can pick up the skill very quickly, others need more time. It took me much longer than most, but it has been well worth it: easily the most important thing I have learned since participating at Bladeforums, more valuable than any knife I own. Knowledge really is power.
The various systems still have their place, and I still enjoy using my Sharpmaker. But by modifying the edge angle, freehand sharpening enables you learn the performance range, limits, and unique behavior of any knife's steel. You really don't know how well a knife can perform until you can convex an edge and bring down its angle. This is especially true of most factory knives. You really don't know when an edge is "too thick" -- and more importantly, the dramatic compromise in performance it imposes -- until you know when an edge is finally "too thin" for your specific needs and uses; and you can only know that when you learn to tweak your own knives.
Give freehand sharpening a shot! A good starting point can be found here: http://www.ameritech.net/users/knives/index.htm
My two cents,
Glen
The various systems still have their place, and I still enjoy using my Sharpmaker. But by modifying the edge angle, freehand sharpening enables you learn the performance range, limits, and unique behavior of any knife's steel. You really don't know how well a knife can perform until you can convex an edge and bring down its angle. This is especially true of most factory knives. You really don't know when an edge is "too thick" -- and more importantly, the dramatic compromise in performance it imposes -- until you know when an edge is finally "too thin" for your specific needs and uses; and you can only know that when you learn to tweak your own knives.
Give freehand sharpening a shot! A good starting point can be found here: http://www.ameritech.net/users/knives/index.htm
My two cents,
Glen
- Joined
- Apr 29, 2002
- Messages
- 5,567
a few thoughts:
- get the sharpmaker for usability and convenience. it costs about $55 from online dealers. however, if you're using steels with high wear resistance like VG10, M2, S30V, S60V, S90V etc, you HAVE to get the diamond rods. unfortunately they cost another $55 or so.
- I think benchstones are cheaper, although the large DMT diamond hones are about the same price as the sharpmaker (especially if you are getting 2 different grits). they will remove metal much, much quicker, but if you are like me, you may just scratch up the blade finish if you can maintain a proper angle.
important also to know that it is, IMO, more difficult to learn to sharpen the belly/recurve/points on a flat benchstone, as compared to the sharpmaker.
- consider 2 different tools....a diamond flat benchstone or if you can afford it, something like the Edgepro Apex (for reprofiling purposes) and the sharpmaker. That way, you'll be much happier. You only need to reprofile once in a while, and for the rest of the time you can just touch up on the sharpmaker.
- lastly, get a strop. I have one and I must say that since getting it, every knife of mind has never been short of shaving sharp (except my seal pup)
- get the sharpmaker for usability and convenience. it costs about $55 from online dealers. however, if you're using steels with high wear resistance like VG10, M2, S30V, S60V, S90V etc, you HAVE to get the diamond rods. unfortunately they cost another $55 or so.
- I think benchstones are cheaper, although the large DMT diamond hones are about the same price as the sharpmaker (especially if you are getting 2 different grits). they will remove metal much, much quicker, but if you are like me, you may just scratch up the blade finish if you can maintain a proper angle.
important also to know that it is, IMO, more difficult to learn to sharpen the belly/recurve/points on a flat benchstone, as compared to the sharpmaker.
- consider 2 different tools....a diamond flat benchstone or if you can afford it, something like the Edgepro Apex (for reprofiling purposes) and the sharpmaker. That way, you'll be much happier. You only need to reprofile once in a while, and for the rest of the time you can just touch up on the sharpmaker.
- lastly, get a strop. I have one and I must say that since getting it, every knife of mind has never been short of shaving sharp (except my seal pup
)