I Need a Sleeping Bag!

Joined
Oct 28, 2007
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I have no knowledge of what a good sleeping bag is, so I will need your guys help... :D:p

I live in a pretty cold spot (Washington), not to cold , but can be. I only saw a 20 degree sleeping bag but i don't need that cold. A 30 degree would do.

So this is what I need a $50-$60 30 degree sleeping bag. Is there such a thing?
 
Yes. You can get a 30deg bag for around $60....maybe a tad more (dependant on quality). WalMart has Coleman brand and others for that price and less, but remember the quality issue. Also, a good pad will do more for warmth than just about anything else, so figure in for the pad.

Check out Campmor. This is a link for Big and Tall, but you can navigate around.
http://www.campmor.com/outdoor/gear/Category___32990000__244

Most often, the mummy-style and rectangulars are the cheapest.
 
are you looing for a bag for car camping or backpacking. Synthetic or down? Is weight an issue? If your sleeping with a pad the insulation need only be on top of you. What's under you gets crushed anyways and loses it's insulating properties after a few uses, yes even great expensive bags. Check out the Big Agnes brand. Lightweightand warm.
 
are you looing for a bag for car camping or backpacking. Synthetic or down? Is weight an issue? If your sleeping with a pad the insulation need only be on top of you. What's under you gets crushed anyways and loses it's insulating properties after a few uses, yes even great expensive bags. Check out the Big Agnes brand. Lightweightand warm.

Man! I like the Big Agnes Encampment 15 Sleeping Bag! I am going to ask for that for X-Mas! :D:p

Thanks guys! :):thumbup:
 
Blood, look closely. It may be the bag for you, but read up on these bags. The Big Agnes brand has a sleeve in the bottom of the bag for a pad. The correct pad costs about $65 at Campmor, though I've seen it cheaper somewhere else. The Big Agnes Encampment with pad will set you back more than $215. The bag has less insulation in the bottom because, as was pointed out earlier by CMGray, you don;t need it there when using a (good) pad. However, if you don't have the pad............
For backpacking, down is a good way to go because they generally weigh less. For car camping, a heavier bag with synthetic fill might be better. I prefer a lightweight bag without a sleeve, but I carry a roll-up lightweight pad. I want that little bit of extra insulation under me, on top of the pad, where it's most needed, and especially if I don;t have a pad and have to settle for a blanket or folded tarp for insulation (pad).

I like the Big Agnes Encampment too, but read carefully! Also, take a look at the Campmor Goose Down 20deg rectangular (lightweight and roomy) or the Cabelas Pine Ridge 20deg that GerberBlades recommended. It's a tad heavier than the Big Agnes, but attractively priced. If you can settle the bill for more than $200, the Big Agnes (with the pad!!!) is surely going to be a good sleeping kit.
 
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In cold weather a ground pad is essential. Your body weight will compress the insulation in your bag and the cold ground will suck the living heat out of your body--one of the most miserable nights I ever spent was when I forgot my ground pad in late fall.
The Big Agnes line is good--I use one of their inflatable ground pads. I have a Marmot bag and love it, but there are several good bag makers. Check the zippers and make sure there is a baffle to cover the zipper, otherwise you can lose a lot of heat through the zipper.
I always shied away from down filled bags: if down gets wet it clumps up and becomes useless. Synthetic fill bags can often still provide warmth when wet. Something to think about.
And I don't know where they get those temp ratings; usually seem about 10 degrees off.
 
Also check out REI. Somebody there should help you get a good bag and once you buy it if it doesn't work out you can always return it or exchange it.

Chad
 
I still got my Army Issued sleeping bag. I love the material but I dont like the mummy style of sleeping. Im a big 50inch chest. When I was in the Army I just slept on top of it and used my protective mask as a pillow. Thats really the only sleeping bag I have ever owned myself. I live in MS. and I do have a fleece type bag that I use for summer nights. I only paid 5 bucks for it at a store and it works great.
 
You don't have to use a Big Agnes pad in theirt bags You can trim down one of the common foam pads to fit with no problem. If you want a quality light bag you can find Slumberjack's for a fair price in many outdoor stores as well, b ut you may have to increase the budget a little. The coleman's etc use a lower quality insulation and construction making the bag less durable and heavier for th same temp rating. I use a 20 degree bag and I live in Washington as well.
 
not all insulation looses its capabilities after being crushed by sleeping on it.

my next sleeping bag and pair of winter boots and gloves will be WIGGY'S.

i currently use a Northface down bag which works great,unless i get it wet heaven forbid.

ABOUT WIGGY PRODUCTS
By Jerry Wigutow

"WIGGY’S GUARANTEE: Our Guarantee is for a lifetime of use. If a seam opens, the zipper breaks or the Lamilite insulation deteriorates (such as losing its loft or separating, clumping in one place or another), Wiggy’s will repair or replace your bag at no charge to you.

At this time, I know of no sleeping bag manufacturer that would even consider such a guarantee. The reason is simple: they already know the insulation they use will deteriorate. If you have ever compared information from the different sleeping bag and extreme cold weather garment manufacturers, you will see that they have never guaranteed the insulation they use, nor do they now.

I will explain why only Wiggy’s can make such a guarantee. The single most important component of any insulated product, be it a sleeping bag, parka, bib, snowsuit, booties or mittens, is the insulation inserted into these products. All insulated Wiggy’s products have only one insulator, LAMILITE. Lamilite is the best material developed thus far, for use as insulation for sleeping bags or outerwear. I believe that our sleeping bags and extreme cold weather outerwear are so good that to purchase any other brand is a waste of money. To purchase a sleeping bag with any less quality could not only mean a very unpleasant camping trip, it could also mean your life. I say “your life” because I believe a sleeping bag is the most important piece of equipment you take into the field.

The functional difference that truly sets the Wiggy’s Bag apart from the rest is its insulation! Lamilite possesses an extraordinary quality that helps contain the flow of heat that your own body generates. The key to Lamilite is its ability to allow the body’s own thermostat to function efficiently.

Lamilite is lofty insulation. The more loft surrounding your body, the more difficult it is for your body heat to escape.

Lamilite is lightweight. The lighter the weight of the insulation the lighter the weight of the finished product be it a sleeping bag or garment.

Lamilite is very soft. Put on a Lamilite parka and you will automatically think it is a down filled parka. The same holds true for our sleeping bags. They surround the body much the way a down bag does, filling in or draping closed around the body. This eliminates heat loss from convection. Conductive heat loss is reduced significantly. The fiber used for Lamilite is not densely packed into our products (as will be explained later) therefore, the loss of heat via conduction is minimized.

Lamilite is more than the fill put into our sleeping bags; it is a combination of nylon fabric and fiberfill, two components that aid each other. The first part is visible. It is the 70-denier nylon commonly known as single ply taffeta. The 70 denier refers to the thickness of the yarn. The actual weave is 86 yarns in one direction and 104 yarns in the other, per square inch. The thickness of yarn is the optimum thickness to absorb body heat and quickly warm to your body temperature. The faster this warming occurs, the slower the rate of conductive heat loss from your body. The spaces between yarns in this construction allow the moisture your body produces to easily escape. It is irrelevant how dry a climate may be, your body gives off moisture. Therefore, it is important to allow this moisture easy exit. Water is extremely efficient at absorbing heat, so you always want to stay as dry as possible.
downbag.gif

Our exclusive processing of the fiberfill laminates the nylon. The Lamilite is an unbounded, silicone-coated continuous filament fiber. This is inside and cannot be seen. The silicone coating gives the fiber two very desirable properties. The first is “antistatic” which allows the fibers to perpetually repel each other regardless of how tightly the fibers are packed against each other (such as compacting in a stuff sack). The loft always returns after removing our sleeping bag from the stuff sack. As an example, one of our Ultima Thule sleeping bags was compacted under 20 tons of pressure. It was blister packed in two poly bags the size of 14 1/2” x 9 1/2” x 2 3/4”. After four days it was opened and in one hour, without assistance, 90% of its loft returned. A Lamilite insulated sleeping bag is the only synthetic bag ever put through this test that returned to its original loft. Not even a down bag will return to almost original, actually the down bags deteriorate when vacuum packed. It is for this reason that I guarantee my sleeping bags will never lose their loft. The Alaska National Guard, as part of their survival gear, uses the Ultima Thule. The bags are left in the vacuum package until needed. In 1994 the U.S. Navy authorized an Ultima Thule, vacuum packed, as the official survival bag carried by aircraft and ships. In addition, they determined that it actually performed at -35? F. The second benefit of the silicone treatment is in making the fiber HYDROPHOBIC. Hydrophobic comes from the word “hydrophobia,” or fear of water. Water simply does not attach itself to the fiber. This is extremely important for the moisture leaving your body, passing through the spaces between the yarns and easily moving through the fiber. Also, it is extremely important for the moisture not to condense in the insulation. If this occurs when temperatures are below freezing, frost buildup can severely reduce the thickness of your insulation, as occurs with down, or the moisture simply freezes as in any other sleeping bag and adds weight.

Refer to the Steger Expedition to the North Pole in July 1986. They used 15 pound chopped staple fiberfill insulated bags that accumulated 35 pounds of ice. The fiberfill used in those bags was Quallofil, a fiber produced by DuPont Co. Even though the fiber is silicone treated, the fact that it was so densely packed in by the quilting prevented any flow of moisture while in a vapor state.

Lamilite insulation is very drape-able. It is important the insulation of a sleeping bag drape around your body. The closer the insulation hugs your body, the less convective air movement occurs. The fiber pushes down on your body and the nylon lining touches your body. If the nylon did not touch your body, the heat from your body would be heating the air space directly above you and a convective air current would be generated. But with the nylon touching your body, it absorbs your heat quickly until it reaches your temperature. This heating action then slows, thereby reducing conductive heat loss.

Lamilite is also easily laundered. In fact, Wiggy’s is the only company that wants you to wash its products when they get dirty. When you go camping, you get dirty and so does your sleeping bag. After awhile, the dirt works its way into the insulation and combines with your body oil. This in turn causes the insulation to compact down or reduce loft, hence, loss of insulation. Therefore, it is important to wash your Wiggy’s bag after each camping trip. Keeping the fiber clean will allow it to retain its original loft. The following are our simple laundering instructions. They are sewn into every bag.

CARE INSTRUCTIONS: All of Wiggy’s bags are machine washable (top load or front load). Use gentle cycle. The water temperature and laundry detergent are your choice. Wiggy’s bags are machine dryable. When drying your bag in the dryer, use low heat. At the present, I know of no other sleeping bag manufacturer who guarantees that you can launder your sleeping bag.

The last, but by no means the least, important feature of our sleeping bag is the zipper. We use a #10 YKK molded tooth zipper. If your zipper fails to work when you are out in the field, it is irrelevant how good the rest of your sleeping bag is. I have been using the YKK #10 tooth zipper for 20 years, and I have yet to have a bag returned due to zipper failure. We also manufacture snowsuits and parkas used throughout the state of Alaska. The only zipper I will use for these garments is the #10 because it proved to work at -100 degrees F. I believe Wiggy’s Bags are so durable that if all you ever do is sleep in them and wash them when they are dirty, eventually you will hand them down to your grandchildren. Therefore, do not be fooled by the “hype” offered about other insulations.

Thus far, I have mentioned two methods of heat loss: convective and conductive. There have been a variety of explanations given for the way we lose heat but, as pertains to sleeping bags, none have been quite satisfactory or accurate. The major misinformation deals with radiant heat loss. Radiation is the action or condition of sending out rays. All bodies in our world, including the human body, do so. Therefore, we want to retain and not lose the radiant heat we produce. In recent years, several manufacturers have made efforts to produce an insulating material that would contain, absorb, or reduce radiant heat loss. Their reasoning eludes me since the amount of total body heat lost through radiation is only supposed to be about 5%. To fully understand why the effort is a waste of time, one must recognize that the radiant heat we produce does not represent a loss but rather a positive.

I grew up in Brooklyn, N.Y., and had the pleasure of visiting the amusement area Coney Island. One of my favorite places to visit was not the rides, but Nathan’s, famous for their hot dogs. There were not tables, just counter space. During the winter months, you were exposed to the elements, which could be brutal since you were at the ocean. In order to keep their customers from freezing, Nathan’s installed radiant heaters around the perimeter. As soon as you stepped under the line of sight of these heaters, you began to feel warm. Radiant heaters heat objects, not air, and I was one of those objects. Thus, when you get into a sleeping bag, the lining of the sleeping bag absorbs the radiant heat you produce since it is the first object that the rays hit. The air between your body and the lining of the bag is completely unaffected by the radiant heat, just like the air at Nathan’s - but I was affected in a positive way. The closer the lining of your sleeping bag is to you, and our lining actually lays on you, the more rapidly the radiant heat you are producing works to your benefit.
Convective heat loss is heated air moving or convective air currents moving away from the body producing the heat. While growing up in a house with radiators heated with steam, you could see the heated air rising from the radiator, especially in the sunlight. The air moving away from the radiator is convective air movement, and unless stifled, will continue moving until it cools at a distance from the source of heat. If the insulation of your Wiggy’s Bag is touching you, the loss of heat via convection is almost entirely eliminated. Conductive heat loss, in my opinion, can be the most serious. The simplest explanation of conductive heat movement can be demonstrated by using a skillet with a metal handle. When you heat the skillet, eventually the heat will travel into the handle or is conducted into the handle. One method of reducing this form of heat movement is by changing the shape of the handle to a spring shape. This can be seen on potbelly stoves. Although the handle is steel, it does not hold the heat as a solid steel handle does. The same principle is in effect when you see the shape of the continuous filament fiber, which has a “vvv” shape. Since the insulation is not compacted (as quilting will do), the conductive heat loss is significantly reduced as we saw demonstrated by the spring shaped handle of the potbelly stove."
 
I always heard good things about Wiggys, and I went to their site again after reading the posts in this thread. Their prices are not really much more expensive than others and I'm looking at their FTRSS Super Light (maybe) for my next bag. Only problem is, I don't care for the confines of a mummy bag. Hmmmm.

I think the key issues here are:
- cost
- temperature rating
- weight

The lowest temperature weight bag that is as light as you want, will cost a pretty penny.
 
The only experience I have with bags are the big and heavy ones. I have my issued extreme artic army bag which is a mummy. I've slept in it down to -14F, and that was about the comfort limit for me. I also have large synthetic "zip together" bags from Cabelas, called Adam and Eve bags. These are really warm also and very comfortable.

As I get older, I am finding that I can't get a good night's sleep in a mummy bag. Keeping my feet together hurts my hips. So I need a larger rectangular bag. As others have said, a good ground pad is absolutely essential. I prefer air mattresses, YMMV. If you are in cold weather, it's a good idea to have an absorbant blanket between your ground pad and the sleeping bag, there is a lot of condensation that will form there.
 
I think a sleeping bag isn't the best place to try to save money. Your life could depend on your choice.

I've given up on synthetic bags, I find them heavy and their temp rating to be very inaccurate. Down bags are lighter and sleep warmer than their temp rating in my experience. However, since you live in WA then down might not be your best choice. They work fine for me, moisture isn't a problem where I live.

I know there are a lot of Wiggy's fans here and if they work for you that's great. I have a different opinion on them. Several years ago I had a Wiggy's bag and I put it in a compression sack in my truck for the winter. I took it out in the spring for a camping trip...after a week it still hadn't lofted up. It's probable that the fill material in mine was different than what they use now, but even back then they said it wouldn't hurt it to keep it compressed. I guess the moral of the story is don't believe everything a company tells you about their product.
 
I would suggest getting a bag liner as well for a few resons:
They add a bit or warmth
They keep the bag cleaner
They are washed very time so the bag doesnt need to be, bag last longer
They can be used seperately for warm camping
 
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