I need a sword!!!!

I.N.F.K

I.N.F.K

Joined
Jul 7, 2012
Messages
1,896
So i've been a fan of swords for years, but have never really looked into them. I could never justify spending 300+ for sword that I would do nothing with other than swing around in my house, slaying invisible enemies or playing fruit ninja in my backyard. So I mostly blew my money on guns and ammo. But I find myself always keeping a gun for a few months then selling or trading it to get another gun. I'm rather sick of that process and would love to get a new hobby going as it seems I very seldomly get rid any of my knives, machetes, axes, etc...

I know of a few makers like Kris Cutlery, Albion, Arms & Armor, Cold Steel, Tradition Filipino Weapons, and Hanwei. At this point I know that my price is around $300 which I think would get me a decent sword. As to the style I'm not a huge fan of dainty blades like rapiers, small swords, jian's, katana's, etc... I like european style blades for the most part. For example, I've been eyeballing the Cold Steel 1860 Heavy Cavalry Saber because I feel that it can take abuse. Since I'm new to swords I'm sure that I'm going to hit stands, drop it, and probably will end up burrying the edge in the dirt.

I had a look through Arms & Armor and Albion. I didn't see a single sword or sword like object for under $600, I'm using Kult of Athena bye the way. Then I looked at Hanwei, they use a lot of threaded tangs which have me wary of their products. They do have the blind zaotochi on sale though, not European but still looks good. Kris seems to have a lot of good, but the price to what they are giving seems to be too good. TFW has a lot of interesting blades for sure, I like their Jian and I know of the steel. However i'm unsure of their reputation. Cold steel is really the only company I have experience with. I'm looking for suggestions for my first sword,
 
My 2 cents: Cold Steel is overbuilt and as a consequence, balance tends to be awful. Finish is nice, and their machete-type swords are a great deal. Condor also has some good budget pieces. Hanwei is a pretty good starting place, as is Kris. Horseclover would probably recommend getting an actual antique. Cavalry sabers can be had for around 100-200 bucks for the real deal. If you want a western piece, however, you really wouldn't go wrong saving up a bit longer for the Albion or A&A, or getting a custom. The quality difference is pretty substantial. In your shoes, I'd probably get something dirt cheap to mess around with (eg, CS machete sword, Condor, or maybe a Kris if you want to spend a bit more), and save the leftovers towards a 800+ dollar piece. Buy once, cry once, as they say.

Also, if you have a good firearms collection, you may be able to find a custom maker who would do a trade with you for a gun you don't want any more. Guns hold value pretty darn well, if you ask me.
 
I.N.F.K said:
As to the style I'm not a huge fan of dainty blades like rapiers, small swords, jian's, katana's, etc... I like european style blades for the most part. For example, I've been eyeballing the Cold Steel 1860 Heavy Cavalry Saber because I feel that it can take abuse.
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Cold Steel swords aren't necessarily great for taking abuse. No reason a CS sabre should do better against abuse than sabres from other Indian makers, like Universal Swords, WIndlass, etc. CS will come sharp, unlike the others. Really hard to find a good repro sabre for $300 or less. They usually start with stock that's too thin, so the base of the blade is too thin, and they leave the tip far too thick. Together, these equal lousy handling compared to originals. (And if the original doesn't have great handling, the repro will suck.)

If you want modern, the maybe a CS sabre would be OK. I think some of the newer Universal models might be better (and cheaper), but for some types, CS is the best of a mediocre lot.

If you just want European, check out the Hanwei Tinker range.

Don't dis rapiers by lumping them with lightweights like smallswords, katanas, etc. Here is a REAL rapier for REAL men:
http://wallacelive.wallacecollectio...collection&objectId=61067&viewType=detailView
(This is the heaviest rapier I know of; more typical would be about 1.2kg to 1.3kg, which is heavier than the typical Viking sword, heavier than the typical katana, heavier than the typical jian, etc. Pity so many repro rapiers are short and featherweight in comparison.)
 
I fight in HEMA and the SCA with a 38 inch rapier and it is slightly heavier than my longsword feder. If you want more than just a showpiece or to cut up stuff in the backyard I'd check and see if you have any sword clubs in your area and try out a few different ones to see what kind you would ultimately like. But if you want functional and tuff check out sabersmith and badger blades. They make functional swords in that price range. I have owned several badgers and have beat the crap out of them and they keep on going.
 
It sounds like you need an indestructible beater.... I'm going to be the oddball who suggests you look up the guys at Zombie Tools.... a few options within your proposed budget... but all built tank tough and will take a beating....

Not superbly balanced by traditional standards, but unless you are honestly sword fighting with a quasi skilled opponent, I think the near perfect balancing on historically accurate blades robs the blade of actual cutting power in favor of speed. The odds of that ever mattering are pretty much slim and none and I'll take an overbuilt tank every time...

I actually own 5 of their blades, already have plans on 6 and 7 so.... take that for what its worth.

If you want to be the envy of your armor wearing fellow LARPers, yea, probably not the best bet.... but if you want a sword you could seriously count on to hack trees, cars, bear, charging rhino...rocks, dirt, you name it..... then I think ZT is a great option.


Stock photo of my current favorite.... the discontinued Mack Daddy-O

 
Darksword Armory has some amazing blades... but you're gonna pay a lot for them. That said, they seem to be worth the money. And can be had for under $600 in some cases.

The-Black-Prince-Medieval-Sword-0-1024x683.jpg
 
Hawgsnawt said:
...I think the near perfect balancing on historically accurate blades robs the blade of actual cutting power in favor of speed. The odds of that ever mattering are pretty much slim and none and I'll take an overbuilt tank every time...
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That's interesting. I think there's also often a trade-off in delicacy vs raw toughness.

The speedy feel of a well-balanced sword will be missing, though, which to me is a huge part of what having a sword is all about. It's like they move by themselves and take over, as your body follows.
 
Hawgsnawt said:
Not superbly balanced by traditional standards, but unless you are honestly sword fighting with a quasi skilled opponent, I think the near perfect balancing on historically accurate blades robs the blade of actual cutting power in favor of speed.
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Just because a blade feels heavier does not mean it will hit harder, and feeling light & fast does not mean it won't hit hard. With proper balance, you increase speed and power at the same time.

See this multi part article: http://www.thearma.org/spotlight/GTA/motions_and_impacts.htm

Actually, anyone interested in swords should read it, including the O.P.
 
all I was saying is all things being equal... more mass towards the end of the blade tends to lead to more cutting power..... same basic philosophy used to make the axe vrs large knife argument.

moving the weight towards the end makes it swing like a baseball bat, or axe rather than dance in hand like a sword should.... but that added mass once moving will bite deeper than a lighter blade. This however can be disproven with a perfect example of a thin cutting blade that is still sufficiently strong and heavy enough to swing with force vrs a very bad grind on a heavier blade which inhibits its ability to cut...... but assuming both items are made of equal quality and with equal thought given to use as a cutting instrument.... typically the heavier blade will out chop the lighter, and in the cases where it does not, it will almost surely outlast it when subjected to hard use for more than a few swings.....

I'm not a trained swordsman, I tend to understand baseball bat....I tend to prefer blades that are top heavy and over built.... but I'm not a practicing martial artist nor do I imagine I will ever have the need to square off with one who is using a more historically correct blade.... the trees I whack rarely whack back.
 
Out of curiosity I looked at blades that I previously described as "dainty". I saw the Hanwei Practical Tai Chi Sword and from what I've seen on YouTube it looks like a pretty good bottle killer. Scimitars look pretty sleek with their long, sweeping blade. Windlass seems to offer a few sub $100 blades that may be a good a experience. Mostly their cobra steel line, but they have a few that may be a good learning experience. Their NCO sword seems simply built, but may speak for sturdiness. Maybe I'll look into smaller blades
 
Bear in mind that Hanwei Practical Tai Chi sword is VERY dull. It's good for stabbing, but not much else. Mine has a little rattle in the handle as well. It's not my favorite of their practical line.
 
Smatchet! :D

If someone is considering the windlass US 1840 nco sword as worth more than whale vomit, consider it a decent thruster that can cut water bottles if sharp enough.

Spend your first sword money after narrowing down your interests and expectations.

"Find the perfect sword for me" kind of falls into the lowest form of discussion on sword boards. It is a question raised often, as often as weekly and the matter so subjective as to be fairly jaded to some like myself. You would be as well served by reading through a few pages of this subforum and read what will only be repeated here.

FWIW, there is the Albion Squire line of swords that can be sharpened. Both the Albion site and viking-shield.com offer a fair number of possibilities.

Cheers

GC

Really, don't waste your time with the US 1840 nco reproduction. You can find originals aplenty for fair money. You would then realize they aren't exactly a backyard cutter's dream sword.
 
horseclover said:
Smatchet! :D

If someone is considering the windlass US 1840 nco sword as worth more than whale vomit, consider it a decent thruster that can cut water bottles if sharp enough.

Spend your first sword money after narrowing down your interests and expectations.

"Find the perfect sword for me" kind of falls into the lowest form of discussion on sword boards. It is a question raised often, as often as weekly and the matter so subjective as to be fairly jaded to some like myself. You would be as well served by reading through a few pages of this subforum and read what will only be repeated here.

FWIW, there is the Albion Squire line of swords that can be sharpened. Both the Albion site and viking-shield.com offer a fair number of possibilities.

Cheers

GC

Really, don't waste your time with the US 1840 nco reproduction. You can find originals aplenty for fair money. You would then realize they aren't exactly a backyard cutter's dream sword.
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I was more after suggestions on a first brand too buy from. Windlass has its appeal in a cheap sword that I wouldn't feel so bad about if I chipped the edge or bent. Versus if I buy a three hundred dollar and end up breaking it. And since someone here mentioned a cheaper blade, that's what I did.
 
Windlas/Museum Replicas was my first reproduction in the 1990s and although I just recently sold it, I wish I had gone for a higher price spread.. If nothing else, they offer variety but most of the sword offeringsare somewhat lacking. Again, the matter is entirely subjective.

Yes, machetes are cheap and fairly foolproof.

Cheers

GC
 
Timo Nieminen said:
Given that whale vomit can sell for US$25/gram, I don't think a Windlass sword would be worth more unless solid gold or spectacularly bejewelled.
Click to expand...

If someone is considering the windlass US 1840 nco sword as worth more than whale vomit, consider it a decent thruster that can cut water bottles if sharp enough.

Please include and comprehend a complete statement . For that matter consider that whole response in context.

horseclover said:
Smatchet! :D

If someone is considering the windlass US 1840 nco sword as worth more than whale vomit, consider it a decent thruster that can cut water bottles if sharp enough.

Spend your first sword money after narrowing down your interests and expectations.

"Find the perfect sword for me" kind of falls into the lowest form of discussion on sword boards. It is a question raised often, as often as weekly and the matter so subjective as to be fairly jaded to some like myself. You would be as well served by reading through a few pages of this subforum and read what will only be repeated here.

FWIW, there is the Albion Squire line of swords that can be sharpened. Both the Albion site and viking-shield.com offer a fair number of possibilities.

Cheers

GC

Really, don't waste your time with the US 1840 nco reproduction. You can find originals aplenty for fair money. You would then realize they aren't exactly a backyard cutter's dream sword.
Click to expand...



Someone looking at an inexpensive sword as some sort of miracle buy might consider one pretty much gets what one pays for. Until the subject is actually ready to discuss a particular genre, most any suggestion might appeal or be rejected. Should I offer up shoe and cufflink suggestions as well? ;) That seems about as worthwhile to me.

He looked at Albion and completely missed the Squire Line swords. Was it worth my mentioning it, or just a waste of time?

Kult of Athena is probably one of the better window shopping experiences and offers an opportunity to view a great many possibilities.

Whatever

GC
 
horseclover said:
If someone is considering the windlass US 1840 nco sword as worth more than whale vomit, consider it a decent thruster that can cut water bottles if sharp enough.

Please include and comprehend a complete statement . For that matter consider that whole response in context.
Click to expand...

Not disagreeing with your point at all, just thought it funny that your value comparison was with something (i.e., whale vomit) that can cost approximately its own weight in gold. Whale vomit is the most valuable of the vomit family.
 
Well, ya learn something every day.

There are some Windlass pieces that don't suck. But it wouldn't really be my first choice for a starter sword. For dirt cheap, CS machetes or Condor. For 100-200, certain of the Hanwei practical line (although many of them will be fairly dull), Kris, or an antique saber, as horseclover mentioned. Or you can take his other recommendations and do a bit more browsing, and/or save up for something nicer when you have a better idea what you want.
 
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