I need advise on my first Busse a Basic 9 "user"

[Bagheera]

Hi guys,

I couldn't resist it and after looking at and searching the "for Sale forum" for a long time, I can call myself a owner of a "modified by previous owner" Busse basic 9.
My budget would strecth only to about $100 so I was lucky to get one for just a little more.

This Busse Basic 9 had the black coating removed by one of the previous owners by hand and it now seems to have a semi mirror finish. Only some toolmarks (pittings) on the tang near the grip seem to have black coating rsidue left in it.

The only worry would be rust developping on the blade as I think it's not stainless, am I correct about this?
I have a Marine Tuff Cloth so that should keep the rust away.


As this BB9 is going to be used at scouting outings for cutting branches, making firesticks, cutting firewood etc. I don't really care about some coating left in pits but I would like to get it sharp again.

The Forumite I bought it from said that it still is sufficiently sharp to chop with but I would like to get it "shaving sharp" but would like to keep the asymmetrical edge.
He said that I would need a ceramic "stick" and a leather belt with polishing compound and "a lot of elbow grease" to remove the 'wire edge' that seems to devellop.

Can anybody point me to, or send detailed instructions on how to accomplish this.

I only own a Sharpmaker 204 and have no large benchstones or fancy diamond coated ones.

Please advice as I probably will get the knife send by my friend in San Diego in a week or two.

Just an idea

, perhaps there is a forumite living in San Diego and would be willing to sharpen it before it gets send to Holland

Best Scouting wishes from Holland,

Bagheera

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[Johan]

To sharpen the asymetrical edge of a Busse all you really need is a ceramic rod, some foam-backed sandpaper and a strop.

Use the rod against the flat side of the edge and the foam-backed sandpaper against the convex edge. The foam allows the sandpaper to take the shape of the convex edge. This isn't a special kind of sandpaper (although is does exist) it's just regular sandpaper wrapped around some styrofoam.

Do not create a large wire burr, keep it small. When you're done start stropping the blade - one side then the other. Check the edge with your finger nail to see is there is still a burr. Strop only until the burr is gone.

Now what I'm about to say is only my opinion and my experiences so...

I've got a half a dozen Busses (Basic and Combat) and I've taken the convex edge off of all of them. While understanding the reasoning for the edge design and the technique for sharpening, I have never been satisfied with the results. Here's an example:

I got a new BA-E a couple of weeks ago. Out of the box it was as sharp as any Busse I've ever had. I'd been doing some free hanging rope cuts earlier and I decided to give the BA a go. It bit into 1/2" manilla rope, but wouldn't sever it. I tried several times with no success. I checked the knife for a wire edge but it was fine. I gave it a few licks with a a strop and that made no difference either. So I cut a few piece of rope laid on a board just to get a feel. The BA went through them just fine.

Then I ground off the convex edge. Each side to 23 degrees, 320 grit, stropped at the end to remove the burr. I love my EdgePro.

This time the rope had no chance and the BA went through it like butter. I also found it sliced and shaved better than before.

Am I knocking the asymetrical edge? Not really. I understand it's purpose and design. I just don't like it. And personally, I find I get better results and easier resharpening with a "V" grind.

Now don't get me wrong, I LOVE my Busses and I think they're the best fixed blade, hard-use survival/camp knives I've ever seen (I own 6 remember).

Anyway, I hope that helped

 

[tallpaul]

Bagheera, Have your friend send it to Busse and have them re sharpen it before you get it... they could check it out then... Ohio is on the way to Holland is it not?

You should really like that BB9, I love mine and beat the snot out of it and it keeps coming back for more...


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If You Abide in Him then,"All His Promises are YES and AMEN"

 

[Bagheera]

Johan, tallpaul,

Thanks, the knife should already be arriving in San Diego so I'm to late to ask the Forumite to send it to Busse in Ohio.

that would mean sending it from SD to Busse and back again. If I can't work out the convex edge I'll just give it one of my normal V sharpenings and see how that works out.

I really hope the knife is as strong/sharp/ergonomic a beast of a knife as I have read everywhere.

Best Scouting wishes from Holland,

Bagheera

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[Cliff Stamp]

A large burr is a sign of either overworking one side of the bevel, or using low quality abrasives that don't cut the material but just smear it around. If you grind one side down until you get a noticable burr it is not easy to remove it. It is far better to alternate sides and never create a large burr in the first place. As well, high quality abrasives cut faster under less pressure and thus reduce grinding time and effort as well as minimize burr formation.

If you are out working then the easiest way to restore the edge is to simply wipe down the flat side of the bevel with a ceramic rod and leave it at that. This will produce a small burr as the ceramic rod creates a high pressure point (due to the low contact area) and will fold ove the edge. However this is not a major concern. Odds are you will see the blade be shaving sharp on one side and not the other (as it is the burr that is shaving).

When you are home and rested and ready to restore the blade to NIB condition you will need something to grind the flat side and something to grind the convex part. I use a large benchstone and SiC sandpaper on Mylar backing from Lee Valley. You now alternate sides and unless you have really mauled the edge should restore it fully very quickly. Also assuming you are working on the correct angles and not grinding a new profile.

Another method to insure that the burr formation is minimized and that the edge strength is maximized is to make sure that your strokes cut across each other. When you look at the grind lines on the bevel they should not be parallel but perpendicular.

After the honing, use a strop loaded with CrO compound, it is very fine (0.5 micron, 9000 grit) and will leave a mirror finish. It cuts quickly and assuming you have finished with fine abrasives should only take a few strokes. Again, make sure they cross over each other.

-Cliff