I need an EXTREMELY chip resistant knife.

VG 10 is pretty prone to chipping over rolling. Wouldn't recommend the Delica for that reason
 
I also vote an H1 steel blade. Super forgiving steel under abuse!

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DeadboxHero said:
The steel is not the problem, I would just sharpen 30dps or 60 inclusive and keep it toothy, no polish and call it good. if it still chips raise the angle more.
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^This.^

It's legitimate to have a knife that gets "abused". "Abuse" is just a term used by us knife freaks who like super sharp edges. But in an industrial work setting, a knife is a tool. There is a regular poster to the traditional forum who works as an industrial electrician in big factories and his preferred tool for scraping down wires and cables is an old Buck 112 that has massive blade loss. So what. It's a tool, not a collector's piece.

I would select something with fine-grained steel run on the softer side for this guy with an angle at 30 DPS.

In the traditional realm, I would give him an Opinel #10 Carbone. It's 1086 (roughly) run at 56Rc. Just melt some paste wax or snowseal into the pivot with a heat gun to keep it operating smoothly.

Another possibility if he doesn't need a lock is the large Case Sodbuster, which is 420HC run at around 56Rc.

Both of these knives were made for this kind of hard use.

I generally steer clear of Gerber but they have a reputation for running their knives on the soft side. Lots of options there.
 
Can't comment specifically on the quality, or who actually makes it, but a Remington a.c.c. liner lock knife knife, (made in USA), uses 1095 steel for the blade, not near as chippy as stainless. Retails for about $90.

Another one, slightly cheaper is the Ontario okc spec plus folder, partially serrated, backlock, 1095 blade, USA made, but no pocket clip, it's a sheath knife instead.

Or an older cold steel (or anything really) with aus8 with tends to roll before it chips... I mentioned cold steel because they offer many with fully serrated edges also, have a strong lock, and their older aus8 models are relatively budget friendly if you can find them.
 
sebenza? altho its a bit pricey to beat the hell out of, but i think they run there steel soft purposely to prevent chips
 
To recap, the consensus is to pick a softer steel sharpened at a more obtuse angle, and avoid large carbide formers. Sounds legit to me.
 
Any high speed steel at low to mid 60s. Best combination of edge stability (resistance to chipping & rolling) and retention (not dulling with normal use) in an industrial environment.
 
I'm sure he know knives are not built to be pried with, they are meant to cut. Anyway, The Manix 2 with Cru-wear from knifecenter, or one of benchmades M4 steel knives. Those would be good choices. You might also be able to find a spyderco Cru-wear different knife model.
 
I like Spydercos, and the company owners/management are great, but their S30V and VG-10 seem very susceptible to chipping. I'd avoid them.
 
I think it doesn't really matter what kind of steel the knife is made out for the railroad guy. As long as he has someone that will continue to sharpen his knife for him, he will continue to beat the crap out of it. By the sounds of it he is just hard on knives.

A more blunt apex may help minimize some of the collateral damage as some have already suggested.
 
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