I Need Parks #50!!

Bailey Bradshaw

Bailey Bradshaw

Joined
Sep 13, 2001
Messages
816
This is just killing me. I seem to have lost my knack for water quenching blades!!!! I have three orders pending and have cracked five blades on one order, three on another and two ont he third. It's costing me a small fortune to keep f$#@(*G with it. I know Parks will solve my problem if I can locate and aquire. Can anyone help me out????
 
I hope so, because ..honestly, my confidence is a bit shaken. I have started to hear the dreaded "pang" in my freakin sleep!!
 
So You are human after all. Its about time we see you make a mistake. I may be sick for thinking this way but I feel better now. :)
 
Bailey, you will have to incorporate more of your sori before the quench and adjust your clay a bit. Many do a slip/slurry coating of the entire surface before applying the ashi, this can be eliminated in the #50.

I don't waste time even discussing altnernative quenches anymore, but I will still talk about water because it is still a bit relevent and the "H" factor scale in quench speeds is based upon it, so it is also at least able to be compared. But to be honest I don't know how anybody can expect to make a living knowing that a certain number of blades will have to be sarificed to that dreaded "ping", and the ways I have seen to avoid it results in less than optimum internal conditions.

Work a bit with the #50 to get the hang of the different parameters and you will not regret you choice.
 
I will NEVER use water again! Not too long ago I tried it and got the "PING". Worst sound in the world. It actually turned my stomach.

-Mike Sheffield
 
Bailey Bradshaw said:
This is just killing me. I seem to have lost my knack for water quenching blades!!!!
Click to expand...

Bruce Bump said:
So You are human after all. Its about time we see you make a mistake. I may be sick for thinking this way but I feel better now. :)
Click to expand...

And thus the gods spake to the humble newbies....though the word did not echo it, the message was "even we are not perfect...there is hope for you too"

:D

I am at once heartened and scared by the fact that the screw ups never end :)

-d
 
Park's #50 quenching oil is so good, I use it in place of olive oil any time a recipe might call for it!:D

On a serious note, it has shown to be so superior to any other material I've used to quench 1095 of 1084 in that the differences can only be described as improvements on an order of magnitude.

I'm resentful of Park's painful distribution and lack of responsiveness to the knifemaking community, and thankful for Darren & Kathryn Ellis for tolerating and enduring them for us!
 
MrPurple said:
Park's #50 quenching oil is so good, I use it in place of olive oil any time a recipe might call for it!:D

On a serious note, it has shown to be so superior to any other material I've used to quench 1095 of 1084 in that the differences can only be described as improvements on an order of magnitude.

I'm resentful of Park's painful distribution and lack of responsiveness to the knifemaking community, and thankful for Darren & Kathryn Ellis for tolerating and enduring them for us!
Click to expand...
I just got a 5 gallon bucket the other day from Darren and Mr. Don Hanson III, MS, informs me that my days of dropping red hot pieces of scrap steel into my quench pan to heat up the oil are over for the most part..........I'm psyched:D
 
jdm61 said:
I just got a 5 gallon bucket the other day from Darren and Mr. Don Hanson III, MS, informs me that my days of dropping red hot pieces of scrap steel into my quench pan to heat up the oil are over for the most part..........I'm psyched:D
Click to expand...

You still have to heat up the Park's 50, don't you?
 
MrPurple said:
I'm resentful of Park's painful distribution and lack of responsiveness to the knifemaking community, and thankful for Darren & Kathryn Ellis for tolerating and enduring them for us!
Click to expand...

Your not kidding about that. I am saving up for some salt pots and e-mailed Heatbath/Parks for some info on there salts, wanting to learn everything I could about them. And guess what? They refused to answer my simple questions or provide me with any info on there products! How rude can you get! And it was just basic questions, nothing to do about trade secrets or anything like that at all.
 
Danbo said:
You still have to heat up the Park's 50, don't you?
Click to expand...

I have been using Parks 50 at room temp, works great for me.

From heatbath.com,

#50 Quench Oil, working range, 50-120 deg F

#50 QUENCH OIL Low viscosity quench oil that approaches water in quench speed, yet gives a more uniform, less severe quench than water. Recommended for open quench system operating below 120 deg F.
 
Don Hanson III said:
I have been using Parks 50 at room temp, works great for me.

From heatbath.com,

#50 Quench Oil, working range, 50-120 deg F

#50 QUENCH OIL Low viscosity quench oil that approaches water in quench speed, yet gives a more uniform, less severe quench than water. Recommended for open quench system operating below 120 deg F.
Click to expand...

WhooHoo! I hadn't realized that. Thanks for saving me an irritating step Don!

-d
 
I recently quenched this blade (no clay coat or anything) in Park's #50 at room temp. The blade is 1/4" stock 1095 (stock removal hollow ground, btw) and 2" wide with a 7.5" blade. This photo is after one light etch and cleanup with Mother's Mag Polish. It is NOT fully finished, so please pardon the 'roughness' of the appearance!

Image-22F3BDB3251511DC.jpg



I'm not trying to hijack this thread, I promise... i just wanted to show what happened to me with this marvelous oil!


I swear to God, Kevin... I WAS NOT SHOOTING FOR THIS!!!! I fully quenched and agitated this, after soaking the blade for 10 minutes... i was aiming for full martensite, seriously! This just happened! My guess is just due to the difference in sectional mass... pretty nifty, nonetheless.
 
The esteemed Mr. Cashen told me a while back that with "fast" steels like the W2 I am using, you can get some wild quench lines like that even without clay. I have a bowie that I fully quenched in heated Tough Quench that looks like it was edge quenched. I hope I can get that effect just by quenching in #50........claying up a blade is too much like work:D
 
Good looking blade, Matt.

I'm using less and less clay on my W2 blades, quenched in #50 and getting more active hamon.
 
Interesting Don. How are you quenching the blade? Are you using a limiter plate, or just submerging point first and rocking back down on the edge?
 
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