i need sharpening tips

There are many threads on how to sharpen, but a Norton stone isn't usually one of them. Most folks use a simple mousepad and sheets of sandpaper, followed by a piece of wood with leather facing and stropping compound.
 
Hey Benny,

This link is for the Bark River Collectors Association. You'll find sharpening instructions, with pictures, for convex edges there. The techique described shows what Nasty is talking about.

http://brkca.com/
 
You're welcome Mr. Graves. I have been following those instructions for my convex blades and it really seems to work for me.
 
That website is great - Thanks for the tip Willieboy!

Can I ask what happens if this technique is used with a knife already having a flat ground bevel? Does it turn it into a convex edge after blood sweat and tears or just lull you into thinking you can get a convex edge, but actually tricking you into spending hours dulling your existing bevel edge?

Maybe thats a silly question - but sharpening is an addiction and when you convince yourself that you can get something done...well the hours just fly by - don't they...
 
bennyjenkins said:
I need any and all tips for sharpening on a simple Norton stone. Thanks.
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If you have an abrasive stone you know how to use, you might try holding the stone in your hand and using it in the manner of a file to sharpen the blade. Take care not to cut yourself using this technique though.
 
kgd said:
That website is great - Thanks for the tip Willieboy!

Can I ask what happens if this technique is used with a knife already having a flat ground bevel? Does it turn it into a convex edge after blood sweat and tears or just lull you into thinking you can get a convex edge, but actually tricking you into spending hours dulling your existing bevel edge?

Maybe thats a silly question - but sharpening is an addiction and when you convince yourself that you can get something done...well the hours just fly by - don't they...
Click to expand...

Personally, I have had good success using the convex sharpening method on all my blades. However, I have not yet attempted to reprofile my non-convex blades using sandpaper and a mouse pad. What I have done is that I don't let my knives get dull. It's much easier to refresh an edge that to resharpen an edge.

I have three leather pads (hones) that I've charged with black compound (the most abrasive), green compound (mildly abrasive) and one with Flitz Metal Polish. This Flitz charged hone is just for polishing when I'm feeling especially anal.

These hones are about 1.5 inches wide and maybe 18" long. I also have an old leather weightlifting belt that is not charged with anything. I use this on the blades after each use. This whopping belt works great on kuks because it is so large. I may charge a portion of it with the green compound at some point but haven't done so yet.

Hope this helps.

Bill
 
I'm a heretic who uses a Norton stone for some of my khuk sharpening. The sandpaper method is probably a bit better, but the stone gets the job done. I use an 8" stone, and tend to work only part of the blade, maybe 6 inches or so at a time. Circular motion works better for me than a slicing motion. As you sharpen one side, you'll raise a burr on the other side - check the burr to make sure it's uniform. Work more on places that don't have the burr. The amount of pressure and time depend on the edge condition. On a dull edge, I'll flip over every 30 seconds to a minute and work on the other side. Once the edge is in good shape, I'll use a few light slicing strokes on each side to take off the burr, then strop on a piece of leather loaded with green chromium oxide.

Maintaining a consistent angle isn't so important, though I need Yvsa to come back me up on that. Minor variations in the angle give you something closer to a convex edge than sticking precisely to 20 degrees.
 
Maintaining a consistent angle isn't so important, though I need Yvsa to come back me up on that. Minor variations in the angle give you something closer to a convex edge than sticking precisely to 20 degrees.
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I don't think you want a particular angle anyway...the most important benefit is found in the convex edge. A convex puts masses of metal behind the carbides and makes for a tremendously strong edge.
 
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