I Need to Rant

Steve - Sounds like you've got more acid rain in Alaska than I do in the Adirondacks!!!

As odd as this may sound, I've had many cheaper stainless steel knives rust on me. Some were Pakistan and China POS. Others were bead blasted Cold Steel AUS-6, CRKT AUS-6 and Leatherman tools. They all rusted to hell in no time at all. My carbon steel Marbles Fieldcraft hasn't gotten a lick of rust yet, and has seen a lot more travel time and use than the rusted knives.

I have the distinct feeling that surface texture and heat treatment have a lot more to do with stainlessness than the particular type of steel that is used.
 
Hey Buzz, I quit tobacco 10 years ago and it was a rough
ride to be sure. I made up my mind to fight one battle at
a time........First lose the tobacco ......then I'll worry about
my eating.

That ment the nearest bear was in deep trouble as his
a$$ was now on my menu!!! Man!!!! I ate everything
in sight and then some. After about a year it got really
better. I'm now to the point that I think smoking is a
genuine YUK! So I say I was cured.

Now if I could figure out a way to cure this endless knife
buying habit.............

Stick to it Buzz ........your life will get 1000% better in the
end, mate.
 
Buzz,

I have a small Blackjack and you will not be dissapointed if yours is like the one I have in edge holding. It is great. Ed Caffrey makes a great folder in 52100. I find your discussion about rust interesting. I have a high acid level and any carbon steel knife that I carry in a pocket and sweat on, I will turn into a rust bubble pretty quickly. I even have to be careful about handling blued firearms and not wiping them off if my hands are sweaty or the least bit damp.
 
Hang in there Buzz.
After 30 years, I'm 6 weeks off cigarettes.
Bear in mind, some people need to die and your quitting
smoking will just put them on the short list. ;)
I hate to sound like a health freak, but walking is better
than eating. After you eat, you want a smoke.
When you're walking, you're new cleaner lungs feel
pretty good. You can even smell stuff.
Unfortunately, smelling stuff is not all that good.
For 6 weeks I've been noticing some awful stenches that
I just walked right by before. (I live in NYC)
Seriously, I wish you the best of luck and you can
email me if you need encouragement (or just want to bitch).
Supposedly, in NYC they're going up to $7.50
they're up to $5.40 in my neighborhood
Whenever the Gov't needs money, they hit the smokers.

Take care and good luck
Doc
 
OK, Buzz inspired me, so I gotta rant now.
I know Buzz is also a huge slipjoint fan like me, so I'll confine my rant to them.
- Don't give us beautiful patterns, gorgeous handle materials, awesome etchings on the blade, and then give us 420 SS blades.
- Nobody wants to buy a great Carbon Steel bladed slipjoint that has Delrin handles; even if they are jigged!
- If you advertise a SJ with Carbon Steel blades, it damn well better have "all" the blades made of Carbon Steel!
- Some people actually want good looks and performance in a SJ
- Please, if you're gonna charge a premium price for a SJ, send it to us sharp, and with no blade wobble!
- And to P J Tomes; PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE lower your prices, by about 95 % (just kidding P J)
Thanks for listening.
I feel better now.
Lenny
 
LOL, what a coincidence! While reading this thread, I noticed the knives Spark posted pics of - hell, I just bought all three of the knives he mentioned....and had no idea the blades are 1095 carbon steel! Blade steel is not denoted on the knives or the boxes. They are V-ground, but as S. Harvey said, if you sharpen free-hand on a stone, they will eventually become convex ground. BTW, these knives are nicely done, and quite sharp OOTB (albeit Delrin :( ).
 
Buzzbait :

What is it with these v-grind edge bevels?

Jigs and v-rod systems like the Sharpmaker I would imagine are a large influence. However as for v-grinds being poor performers in general, this isn't the case. If you compare a thin Marbles to something like the Cold Steel SRK, then yes you will note a huge difference, but this is not simply due to full conex vs flat with v-ground edge bevels. If you want to see how flat ground knives with secondary edge bevels can behave, find one of Boyes earlier knives, or something from Phil Wilson. Full flat grinds, where the edge is just a hint, the blade is 0.005 to 0.01 (max) behind the edge bevel. In regards to ease of sharpening, this is strongly influenced by the steel. 52100 in particular which Marbles uses is very tough so doesn't chip, and is very easy to machine, so it is quickly honed even by simple abrasives.

I honestly have no idea why a person who actually cuts stuff would not want a full convex grind.

There are advantages to deep hollow grinds for shallow cutting, and the profile is more stable with sharpening. Everytime you sharpen a fully convex ground blade you take metal right off the entire blade, thus it gradually thins out and turns into a very different blade. Knives with secondary edge bevels are more stable, they keep the same general properties, but lose cutting ability with each sharpening, this change of course is very small. It is just a matter of how you want the profile to change over time.

Blades with secondary edge bevels are also in general far easier (in regards to time) to touchup as it just takes a couple of passes on a steel for light alignment, or a couple of passes on a v-rod setup when it is time to hone. Stropping will work for slight use on a full convex grind, but when the blade has been significantly blunted, you can't do anything to match the speed of touching up a secondary bevel and unless you are very carefull to work the primary grind evenly, you are going to introduce a distinct edge bevel anyway.

And of course one of the bigger problems with full convex grinds is that they look like hell after sharpening as you are grinding along the full profile. In the can cutting thread people are concerned about the damage it will do to the blade :

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=197598

Specifically :

Andre :

My oldest knife is a
Spyderco Endura with a G2 blade which is now about 13 years old. I once
cut cans and I'm still living with scratches on the sides of the blade.

Those slight marks are nothing compared to what the primary grinds on my fully ground blades look like, some of them have file marks.

When carbon steel is done right, it’s actually quite stainless.

Carbon steels will rust quite quickly, regardless of finish or heat treatment, however as Cougar noted, actual use is the bane of rust. Your most frequently used knife is going to be free of rust as you are constantly polishing it while cutting. However you will see a patina develop over time. My 52100 MEUK is quite mottled now as are all my carbon blades. But this is only cosmetic so who cares anyway.

In short, I also appreciate full convev grinds, however there are also lots of blades with hollow and flat grinds that are great knives as well, you just have to find a maker than knows how to bring out the best in the profile and match it to the right steel and make sure the whole package is coherently designed around a focused goal.

-Cliff
 
Geez Cliff. This is a rant!!! There is not supposed to be any logic or facts in this thread. This is the thread of meaningless gut instinct and half-uncontrolled anger. There is no truth allowed. Only ridiculously pointed opinions.

Come on, Cliff. I know you have it in you. Tell as what you've been wanting to say for years now. Get it off your chest!!!
 
Wait a minute Jerry! Let's not start any rumors.


- Cliff




Last edited by Cliff Stamp on 04-14-2002 at 11:37 AM
 
Buzz,

I guess with you on this carbon steel kick, you'll be dumping all your Talonite junk at bargain prices, right? Right??? :D :D

PS - And for THIS I used my post #100? :barf:
 
lol
I've heard this rumor before, now we all know ......;)

That's too funny Cliff...lol
 
Originally posted by Blade Santa Cruz
Buzz,

I guess with you on this carbon steel kick, you'll be dumping all your Talonite junk at bargain prices, right? Right??? :D :D

Not on your life!!! I've pretty much settled on talonite for my sub-three inch blades, and carbon steel on my larger stuff. It's my stainless steel that seems to be falling by the wayside.

There are a few notable exceptions, just because the designs are so good. But I'd drop the stainless steel in a heartbeat, if these designs were offered in a good carbon steel or talonite.
 
How about CPM 3v? I've heard some great things about it and I have a bar coming soon. Can't wait to try it!
 
Not only am I Cliff Stamp, but I am several other well known forumites. Can you guess who they are?

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