I Need your wood knowledge!

PocketEdge

PocketEdge

Joined
Dec 23, 2008
Messages
566
Hi Guys,

I'm working on a friction folder design right now that is made from a one piece block of wood that is milled out for the blade to rest in the center. The design's foundation is a simple, comfortable, working knife much like an Opinel. I'm wanting to use American hardwoods. More specifically, I would really like to use American Hardwoods that do not require stabilization. Now there is some question on the need to stabilize certain woods such as Walnut; most would say stabilize and a few would say it wasn't required. I want to feel confident that customers won't be calling me back with issues due to wood movement. On the other hand, this is a simple, one piece handle just like an Opinel so a 1/64" movement may not matter like it would a folder with liners or a fixed blade with scales.
So, if you wouldn't mind giving me your thoughts of the top American woods that don't require stabilization (besides Arizona Ironwood), it would be a huge help.

Walnut, Maple, Hickory, Chestnut, Osage Orange????
 
Excluding woods from HI - I think these natural woods would be durable+stable/not-much-movement in service
Manzanita
Honey Mesquite
Olive
Black Locust
 
I would say the best choices would Osange Orange for a nice flair, box elder could also be a choice. But i think a piece of crotch texas Ebony would serve you best. It is niuce and strong, heavy and very pretty. Look up Bigmikeyc1 on ebay and tell him Ben sent you. He always has a nice store of great American wood and im sure he would send you some samples.
 
+1 on Persimmon and Osage Orange. I'd be hesitant to go with burl or crotch wood, there are weaknesses and inclusions that would compromise a slotted wood handle.

Hard maple and boxelder are good as well.
 
Mesquite is one of the most dimensionally stable woods once dry. Cracks badly prior to that though.

Baked or "torrefied" maple is becoming popular, like what Lee Valley is now using on their chisels.
 
Mesquite and Texas Ebony are both very stable. Finding a piece the size you need with out any checks or cracks shouldn't be very hard. Just make sure it is nice and dry and don't try and rush the drying process your self. I ruined some nice mesquite trying to dry it myself using a process I read on the internet! Let a professional kiln dry it for you.
 
Thanks everyone! This has me headed in the right direction. I picked up some Osage Orange and Black Locust this afternoon. Persimmon seems a little hard to get ahold of right now. Mesquite seems to be impossible to find. I'm going to keep hunting!
 
As a hobby woodworker for 10 years I am always dealing with wood movement and it can easily ruin a great project. My concern is always how dry the wood and wether it is 1/4 or flat sawn. My biggest piece of advice to you is once you mill out the slot let the wood acclimate in your shop before you do anything else
, a day or two will allow the wood to move if there is new stresses released from the milling. I would also suggest trying to find 1/4 sawn wood if the lumber choice you choose is offered in that cut. Just some thoughts
 
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