I played HELL with the 25 blade stop pin today

lemmuhj

lemmuhj

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:mad:

I haven't taken my 25 down completely in a really loooong time, so i would say i pretty much"suck" as far as being totally competent/familiar with re assembly. I know "what goes where", but not in any particular order that makes the process a 5 minute job. This considered, is there a specific step by step process that Reeve released to re assemble!?

I am familiar with the sticky that (used to be) up with pics(here on BF) and on CRK'S web site for the 21 and even the pamphlet that came with every Umnumzaan!? Haven't seen anything official about the 25. Maybe i missed it?

Let me explain. I took off every fastener and washer and really scrubbed them out. I soaked the scales too and really cleaned everything good. After i dried all components , i went to reassemble. I laid the Idaho Made scale down and used the sandwich method. I set the stop pin using good eye judgement and then loosely tightened. After knife was "together", i started to tighten screws. For the life of me, i could not get the stop pin inside the scales to stop spinning upon tightining! I prob took the knife apart 4 times. I tried everything. I finally got it set, but am really aggravated!

Next time i will leave stop pin screwed in. NO WAY im taking it apart again.
Any thoughts? Easier process?
 
I feel your pain with the 25. Everyone says it's easier than the 21, it takes me several tries to get the stop pin just right.
Crk sends a bottle of locktite.

I haven't mastered the 25 yet, so it doesn't get used much since I don't want to reset the lock pin everytime I clean it.
 
I have two with the pinned stop pins. Taking those down were a breeze. Then, I got one with the stop pin having both sides with screws and I had the same problem in getting the stop pin to stay in place. It was annoying to say the least. I put locktite on the stop pin, wiped the excess off and don't plan on ever trying to remove it again. When I take down the other 25, I'll do the same thing.
 
I'm not a fan of the cammed stop pin, I understand where people are going with it, but...

I have had the pin turn when the knife was assembled and in pocket. I tried to open the knife, the blade started moving but promptly stopped as it hit the pin. I had to take the knife apart to get it to seat back in position. The stop pin issue at that time rendered my knife "usless" as I was unable to open it, that is something I find unacceptable to be perfectly honest.
 
Hopefully chris reeves understands this issue and changes something. It is annoying!
 
I was really curious about the 25, and wanting to try one. But not sure I want to mess around with this all the time. I clean my 21 frequently as I use it for everything and it tends to get gummed up a lot. Not sure if the benefit of a cam'd type stop pin.
 
My solution is to not remove the lockbar side stop-pin screw. But if you must, before you remove it scribe around the stop pin with a mechanical pencil. If you press hard enough it will put a "snail-trail" in the blasted surface of the Ti, then you have a reference and can crank the lockbar side tight before continuing with the rest of the assembly process.
 
I guess I either don't understand the problem completely or never have this problem when cleaning my 25. I usually take it all the way down when cleaning and have no issues getting it back together exactly like before it was apart only cleaner. However, just like with all my other knives, I make sure the same screws/pins are put exactly where they came from even when they don't readily appear different. Thoughts? Could the screws be different or even married (so to speak)?
 
I thought I heard that the stop pin on the CF is a bit different than the stop pin on the all TI but I may be mistaken. Does anyone know if there is any truth to this?
 
Nrthfce said:
I guess I either don't understand the problem completely or never have this problem when cleaning my 25. I usually take it all the way down when cleaning and have no issues getting it back together exactly like before it was apart only cleaner. However, just like with all my other knives, I make sure the same screws/pins are put exactly where they came from even when they don't readily appear different. Thoughts? Could the screws be different or even married (so to speak)?
Click to expand...

The stop pin on the later version 25s is asymmetrical, and can be installed in any orientation. If it is not perfectly rotated so the flat "notch" on the stop pin is in the exact spot to clear the blade, or if the stop pin rotates during or after assembly, the knife locks up due to the blade tang hitting the stop pin at the wrong time. The stop pin on the 1st generation 25s is also asymmetrical, but is press-fit so this is not an issue, as it cannot be removed, or rotated.
 
When I disassemble my 25, the stop pin and rear standoff stays on the lockbar side. No need to remove them for a simple cleaning. They are lok-tited in, so no movement so far and I don't expect for it to ever do so.

IMG_1812_zpsccd08801.jpg
 
Lots of good info everyone. I think the way "91bravo" above keeps his 25 is the answer, and prob CRKs too. Would love to hear from them on correct method though.

On a side note...how is the new Inkosi stop pin oriented? If different than than the 25, maybe it will be incorporated soon?
 
I emailed CRK because of this thread, just out of curiosity, asking if the Inkosi would have the same stop pin as the 25. The reply was:

No the Inkosi does not have the same stop pin design as the Sebenza 25.
The Inkosi does have a different design that does not require the stop pin to be in a particular position to assemble correctly.
 
That's welcome news to me. That, and getting the tip of the pocket clip out of the second finger groove means Chris is improving things. (nothing new with that)
 
I don't have a 25.
It's good to know the powers that be are making it easier to put the Inkosi back together. I wonder if they will make a change on the 25? I guess there no instructions in the box of the 25 for putting it back together?
 
einsteinjon said:
I emailed CRK because of this thread, just out of curiosity, asking if the Inkosi would have the same stop pin as the 25. The reply was:

No the Inkosi does not have the same stop pin design as the Sebenza 25.
The Inkosi does have a different design that does not require the stop pin to be in a particular position to assemble correctly.
Click to expand...

Wow! This fantastic news! Thanks for emailing them!

Im sure these changes will be on the 25 soon!
 
I'm not looking to start rumors, so know this is only speculation out of my own head. But if they're going to make a large Inkosi, I'm kind of wondering if the Sebenza 25 is going to be discontinued, and the Sebenza 21 will be the only Sebenza left standing.

They say the Inkosi is different than the 25, and that's true, but the similarities are obvious (at least aesthetically). If the Inkosi is an iterative improvement over the 25, why continue making the 25?
 
einsteinjon said:
I'm not looking to start rumors, so know this is only speculation out of my own head. But if they're going to make a large Inkosi, I'm kind of wondering if the Sebenza 25 is going to be discontinued, and the Sebenza 21 will be the only Sebenza left standing.

They say the Inkosi is different than the 25, and that's true, but the similarities are obvious (at least aesthetically). If the Inkosi is an iterative improvement over the 25, why continue making the 25?
Click to expand...

Nailed it.
 
Got my 25 back today and followed everyone's instructions on the stop pin. Marked it so I know where it should be. Locktite'd the stop pin, at least 2 hours. Assembled the scales and during the screws, the stop pin rotated! Ugh so frustrated with the 25.
I love the anodizing I had done for it.
 
I knew nothing about this problem until this thread... I have cleaned my 25 4-5 times without an issue. Now I am not sure I ever wanna clean it again.
 
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