I tried convex sharpening today....

A zero edge simply means that there is no secondary bevel at all. Any grind (hollow, flat, scandi, 3/4, full flat) can be a zero edge.

So take a Paramilitary 2 for example, if it were a zero edge then you'd just have the primary FFG grind leading all the way down to the apex, without a secondary edge bevel. :)
 
A zero edge simply means that there is no secondary bevel at all. Any grind (hollow, flat, scandi, 3/4, full flat) can be a zero edge.

So take a Paramilitary 2 for example, if it were a zero edge then you'd just have the primary FFG grind leading all the way down to the apex, without a secondary edge bevel. :)

that's what he said. the scandis and japanese chisel kitchen knives are the only stricto sensus true zero ground blades i know. a full flat grind without micro won't serve any purpose, even worst for a hollow gound blade, even a straight razor has a secondary bevel.

same goes for a full convex blade, i've yet to see one that has no "drop" in the convex or secondary convex bevel at the edge with a different, steeper curvature.

most knive i see advertised as zero ground are not.
 
that's what he said. the scandis and japanese chisel kitchen knives are the only stricto sensus true zero ground blades i know. a full flat grind without micro won't serve any purpose, even worst for a hollow gound blade, even a straight razor has a secondary bevel.

same goes for a full convex blade, i've yet to see one that has no "drop" in the convex or secondary convex bevel at the edge with a different, steeper curvature.

most knive i see advertised as zero ground are not.


I wasn't trying to say it was practical, I was just describing what a zero grind is. ;)
 
The way I usually 'zero' mine (strictest definition aside), is to use a guided setup to make a fairly acute V-bevel (< 15 degrees) to the very edge, with no micro. Then convex the hard shoulders away, on a firm backing, without altering the edge itself. That eliminates the secondary 'drop' in the convex near the edge, retaining the best elements of a clean V-bevel there. It's as close to zero, at the edge, as it'll ever be. The two Opinels I did a while back, were thinned down by laying the blade flush to sandpaper. The blade itself, straight from the factory, has a very subtle convex to a very narrow micro bevel, with the 'peak' of the convex arc near the middle of the blade, then just slides off from there, to the edge. I use the sandpaper to remove that factory micro bevel, and thin the lower half of the blade. Within the limitations of whatever subtle 'rounding' might occur from stropping, it's about as close to zero as can be, at the edge.
 
I wasn't trying to say it was practical, I was just describing what a zero grind is. ;)

i understood that, just added a few precisions because i feel zero grind is a term that has a meaning and that most ppl today uses it improperly

The way I usually 'zero' mine (strictest definition aside), is to use a guided setup to make a fairly acute V-bevel (< 15 degrees) to the very edge, with no micro. Then convex the hard shoulders away, on a firm backing, without altering the edge itself. That eliminates the secondary 'drop' in the convex near the edge, retaining the best elements of a clean V-bevel there. It's as close to zero, at the edge, as it'll ever be. The two Opinels I did a while back, were thinned down by laying the blade flush to sandpaper. The blade itself, straight from the factory, has a very subtle convex to a very narrow micro bevel, with the 'peak' of the convex arc near the middle of the blade, then just slides off from there, to the edge. I use the sandpaper to remove that factory micro bevel, and thin the lower half of the blade. Within the limitations of whatever subtle 'rounding' might occur from stropping, it's about as close to zero as can be, at the edge.

yes your opinel "mod" is probably the closest thing possible to a zero gound convex. what bothers me today is that every single full convex knife is said "zero edge" wich means nothing especially when applied to something like a LE busse or other tank prying blades.
 
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