I trust these knives !!!

I sacraficed a co-workers Kershaw(japan) for proof,cheap cast aluminum handle chipped but still would have save a live if needed,now I gotta buy my co-worker a chive..during this demo I was not going to use my RC3 or LMwave do to this was not a life or death situation:D
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That is one ugly a$$ kershaw. I guess I should be happy since even if that knife could do that then mine surely can :D. You were doing him the favor by getting him a chive in place of that one. Thanks for the demonstration :thumbup:, J.
 
yes I did it as a favor & yes that is what a $15 Kershaw looks like...but it did the job...because once the sheet metal is gapped enough to grab it with your mitts peels back better than a orange, then just chop the stringers and crawl out ..
 
Yeah I think this thread has run it's course !
Thanks to all those that made valid contributions and best of luck to all those others that put their trust in red plastic handled knives with tin foil blades....oops did I just write what I was thinking !!!:foot:



Before all the Mora liberation front track me down and fire-bomb my house, this is mine.....
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perksy said:
Ray Mears does not use a Mora, he uses a custom scandi knife called a Woodlore, they usually sell at about $200 -$300, a lot more than Mora.
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Sometimes he carries the Woodlore and sometimes he carries a Mora. I've seen hime use a Frosts' Craftsman several times. He likes Opinels too.
 
Not a bad thread really. The problem, if there is one, is that you can't tell someone else what to trust. This really holds true for someone who has been there and done that. There is nothing wrong with giving your opinion and explaining your reasons for them for the new to the sport folks but having a bias against a brand or type of tool and basing your total argument on that only stirs the flames and accomplishes nothing. Even worse is basing your argument on the price of the tools involed. If a new or young guy gets the notion that any knife under 100 dollars is not going to serve him well, he may just not even try wilderness living. Anyway, I hope you can see my point.
 
texastonydobbs said:
I sacraficed a co-workers Kershaw(japan) for proof,cheap cast aluminum handle chipped but still would have save a live if needed,now I gotta buy my co-worker a chive..during this demo I was not going to use my RC3 or LMwave do to this was not a life or death situation:D
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The Knife Test on the LMF II ASEK, he cuts through an oil pan with no damage to the knife...

http://www.knifetests.com/GerberLMFIIASEK.html

http://www.policeone.com/police-products/duty-gear/knives/press-releases/120430/
 
Gerber lmfII $100 knife versus a $15 borrowed blade..I have owned a LMFII and it got dealt with other so so blades... I liked it and used it for a few months as a camp knife and it did not fit the bill so I traded it, the sheath has it's pluses and minuses...as does the knife itself...for my application just did not cut it... LoL
 
udtjim said:
This is my absolute every day carry. I didn't even notice the Kershaw Blackout in my pocket for the first picture. If I have my pants on, its in the right pocket.

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Which SAK is that? I like it! I just switched to progressive lenses on my glasses and need all the help I can get.... :D
 
I think you should use what you want and can afford. I own a couple of Mora's and I like them alot, however they would not be my first choice in a survival situation.
For me personally I think of it like this.
We all agree that what is between our ears is the most important thing however, I have been midly hypothermic and I know that when you are tired, midly hypothermic you start to loose some of your normal raesoning ability.
We know that when done properly you can baton a Mora through a chunk of wood. However being tired or loosing concentration you may not be using proper technique and you could brake the handle off in one or two wacks. If you had a tougher knife such as a dumpster mutt it may not break so readily. This could mean the difference between life and death if you needed to build a fire in the wild if you where cold, wet or hypothermic.
Yes a hatchet or axe and a knife is a good combination but if your canoe tips and all you are left with is the knife strapped to your belt, you probably want one thats tough. It just gives you that little extra matgine of safety.
I use a folder when close to home or in a provincial park where I know that help is not far. Anywhere off the beaten path I carry a sturdier knife.
If you are fine using a Mora or other type of knife good on you, in the end it is what you want.
 
Knives to bet my life on? Well Buck119, Ontario Pilots survival knife, My Kbar, Kershaw vapor, Buck Omni folding hunter, Leatherman, Spyderco Native. I love them all dearly. I know there are more expensive knives out there but these are just meat and potatoes to me and they work really well. Oh and anyone of my Victorinox pocket knives. Cant forget those beauties.
 
coyotebc said:
I think you should use what you want and can afford. I own a couple of Mora's and I like them alot, however they would not be my first choice in a survival situation.
For me personally I think of it like this.
We all agree that what is between our ears is the most important thing however, I have been midly hypothermic and I know that when you are tired, midly hypothermic you start to loose some of your normal raesoning ability.
We know that when done properly you can baton a Mora through a chunk of wood. However being tired or loosing concentration you may not be using proper technique and you could brake the handle off in one or two wacks. If you had a tougher knife such as a dumpster mutt it may not break so readily. This could mean the difference between life and death if you needed to build a fire in the wild if you where cold, wet or hypothermic.
Yes a hatchet or axe and a knife is a good combination but if your canoe tips and all you are left with is the knife strapped to your belt, you probably want one thats tough. It just gives you that little extra matgine of safety.
I use a folder when close to home or in a provincial park where I know that help is not far. Anywhere off the beaten path I carry a sturdier knife.
If you are fine using a Mora or other type of knife good on you, in the end it is what you want.
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Exactly my point, and when I added this post I thought if only one person got the message then I would be happy.....YOU have made me a happy man bro !!!:D:thumbup:
 
I have read the posts on this thread---everyone has valid points.:thumbup:

We have all read stories about knives failing.(tips breaking,blade snapping,etc)...due to both operator error as well as just cheap knives.

#1:Has anyone ever read a story about someone having too good of a knife in a Survival situation??(some of my friends think it's possible for someone with a high quality knife with little training to attempt to do things a trained person would never do and get himself in more trouble than if he had a less quality knife).

#2:Is it possible to break a knife of good quality????--if so---How?(as to avoid it)
 
That is the Vic Explorer. I have carried it every day for 35 years. (this is the third one) I still have the other two but the main blades are about gone from sharpening over the decades. I carried the Explore because of the magnifying glass and the phillips screw driver. I did maintanace work and carpenter work and the magnifier helped remove many slivers and small pieces of steel from my fingers. I also use thr scissors a lot. The Explore just had the right combination of tools for my use. No single tool ever made my life easier than that SAK. Its saved me thousands of steps and trips to the tool box.

I guess the big chopping knives don't appeal as much to me because there is no life without a Hatchet.:) I would have to see a Mora break when used as a knife to believe it. Never Have. The Mora's are a more recent thing for me though as I got my first one about five years ago.
 
coyotebc said:
.... you could brake the handle off (a Mora) in one or two wacks.
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Perhaps if you use a sledgehammer or the heaviest rock you can lift. I have used a steel hammers to baton Moras trough wood with no problem. And yes I know this is wrong but the handle doesn't break off that easily.
 
"Yes a hatchet or axe and a knife is a good combination but if your canoe tips and all you are left with is the knife strapped to your belt, you probably want one thats tough. It just gives you that little extra margin of safety." - coyotebc

It had already been mentioned about Dan Schectman's article in one of the recent knife magazines about Jon Berger, and his choice of cutlery (Buck 110, SAK Rucksack, and Estwing Camper 26" axe). A couple of issues back, Dan also wrote an article in BACKWOODSMAN magazine about what the "old-timers" carried for what we now call a PSK. In that article he mentioned one Sandy Stewart, a trapper and explorer in the Canadian North Country. Now Sandy was headed into new territory, and wound up losing his canoe and all his gear over a falls in the river. He was left with the contents of his pockets. I may not remember what all he had, but I know it was at least some twine, some fishhooks, a waterproof container with matches and a stout two-bladed pocketknife, and some tobacco for his pipe (which was also lost over the falls). He can catch fish, make snares, has the ability to start a fire and has a good pocketknife to work with.

Long story short: two weeks later, Sandy comes rafting down the river, with his hand-carved pipe, looking no worse for the wear, and asks the folks he meets, "Have ye any tobacco?"

Sandy knew how to survive with what he had along. I imagine his stout pocketknife looked a lot like the one seen in Nessmuk's book on woodcraft.

I found it an interesting story!

Ron
 
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