I used Renaissance Wax for the first time today on two of my Bowie knives... I'm now a believer! 😊

Can it be used on any handle - from micarta to bone to stacked birch bark or is it strictly a steel and leather type finish?
Sure shines up your collection. :thumbsup:
 
Can it be used on any handle - from micarta to bone to stacked birch bark or is it strictly a steel and leather type finish?
Sure shines up your collection. :thumbsup:
I'm no expert but 10 yrs ago when I asked this, someone said that many materials used for scales are stabilized and thus the wax kinda sits on top, so to speak. I'm interested if that is indeed true.
 
I'm no expert but 10 yrs ago when I asked this, someone said that many materials used for scales are stabilized and thus the wax kinda sits on top, so to speak. I'm interested if that is indeed true.
You mean, like it sits on metal? No being a wise guy but it seems that it must just sit on the metal too. Does it make the surface slippery - so not so good for smooth handles anyway? I can see where the leather and maybe birch bark would absorb some of the finish.

Thanks for the reply.
 
Ren Wax is supposed to be fine for all sorts of metals, leather, wood, ivory, and even parchment and paper. I doubt it would harm bone or birch bark. Micarta I don't know; however, I once got some Johnson's Paste Wax on a micarta scale. It turned temporarily darker when wet with solvent, but once the solvent evap'd it was fine. As with most things, try a small area (or ideally an extra piece, like a micarta scale blank) first and see how it goes.
 
Any opinions on this vs tuf cloth on carbon steel knives that are being used & carried?
Renaissance wax is not a high performance coating for preventing corrosion, there are much better products on the market but they don't make the items look as nice. I did the usual informal test with a half dozen nails, some saltwater, and all of the different protectant-type materials that I had available. Ren wax was middle of the road, and surprisingly so was the protectant that AG Russell sells. My test was a very informal test, maybe even crude by some standards, YMMV.
 
Question out of pure ignorance: is this purely for spit and polish, or does it actually serve a protective purpose?

Compared to a thin coat of CLP.

Don't get me wrong, these blades look awesome and just the esthetics alone will have me googling here in a moment...
 

Kyle Royer has used it recently on his Damascus as per the linked video.

ETA: correction, he uses carnauba wax.
 
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Renaissance wax is not a high performance coating for preventing corrosion, there are much better products on the market but they don't make the items look as nice. I did the usual informal test with a half dozen nails, some saltwater, and all of the different protectant-type materials that I had available. Ren wax was middle of the road, and surprisingly so was the protectant that AG Russell sells. My test was a very informal test, maybe even crude by some standards, YMMV.
I thought I might learn something by conducting my own test but instead of learning anything, I just became confused. My results don't make any sense because the bare steel had less corrosion than most of the treated steels.

Here are the products that I used for the test.
IMG_4321.JPG

I treated some cheap carbon steel "knives" and then laid them on a grate and put them in a tub filled about halfway with tap water.
Before Adding Tap Water.JPG
Lid In Place.JPG

Here are my results after 98 hours in the tub. Like I said, it makes no sense. The bare steel should have the most corrosion but for reasons unknown to me, it doesn't.shrug.gif
After 98 Hours.JPG
 
Question out of pure ignorance: is this purely for spit and polish, or does it actually serve a protective purpose?
It protects the blade from the air - oxygen and water. Also, to an extent from handling since sweat is a bit acidic.
That's why museums and collectors love the stuff, great for storage or display case.
I'll guess that you're on your own for UV though - so that leather needs to be out of sunlight.

Any opinions on this vs tuf cloth on carbon steel knives that are being used & carried?
I'd use it more for storage, if only because wax is harder to apply completely on a regular basis.
 
I applied it this morning before going off to work to my 1970's vintage Wostenholm Bowie. I then proceeded onto treating my Nord Crown 'Shark' Damascus steel blade knife... I truly love the results!
It works on all parts of the knife, so it's nice not to have to be careful about getting it on something that doesn't benefit from it, (or that it could cause harm to).
Yup, I think I'll be using this stuff more often 👍😃👍

20220601_025836_(1).jpg

I think I'll be doing a couple more after work 👍😃👍
 
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I use it on my swords that I don't plan on using for awhile , one's I do use I use oil easier to apply ....
How is it that mine is the 32nd response in this thread and not one of you folks has had a question about this?!? Not. One. o_O

I guess I'll be the one to ask: What do you use your swords for?
 
Renaissance wax is not a high performance coating for preventing corrosion, there are much better products on the market but they don't make the items look as nice. I did the usual informal test with a half dozen nails, some saltwater, and all of the different protectant-type materials that I had available. Ren wax was middle of the road, and surprisingly so was the protectant that AG Russell sells. My test was a very informal test, maybe even crude by some standards, YMMV.
I have to agree with you. I live 50m from the sea and it fails miserably at long term corrosion protection.
It may work well in a low humidity environment but my experience of it is poor.
 
I got two more knives treated with the Renaissance Wax after I got home from work today.

This first one is what Renaissance Wax was designed for in the first place, treating older objects for posterity. This is my Joseph Rodgers antique hunting Bowie knife...

20220601_163225_(1).jpg

And, the other one I Ren Waxed today was this Cold Steel Frontier Bowie that I had previously modified by removing it's original blued finish, satin finished it's blade, and convexed it's cutting edge...

20220601_163355_(1).jpg
 
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