jmh33
Gold Member
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2003
- Messages
- 10,419
Yes.Question: can I just wipe off the light oil on my blades with a dry cloth before applying?
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Yes.Question: can I just wipe off the light oil on my blades with a dry cloth before applying?
I'm no expert but 10 yrs ago when I asked this, someone said that many materials used for scales are stabilized and thus the wax kinda sits on top, so to speak. I'm interested if that is indeed true.Can it be used on any handle - from micarta to bone to stacked birch bark or is it strictly a steel and leather type finish?
Sure shines up your collection.![]()
You mean, like it sits on metal? No being a wise guy but it seems that it must just sit on the metal too. Does it make the surface slippery - so not so good for smooth handles anyway? I can see where the leather and maybe birch bark would absorb some of the finish.I'm no expert but 10 yrs ago when I asked this, someone said that many materials used for scales are stabilized and thus the wax kinda sits on top, so to speak. I'm interested if that is indeed true.
Renaissance wax is not a high performance coating for preventing corrosion, there are much better products on the market but they don't make the items look as nice. I did the usual informal test with a half dozen nails, some saltwater, and all of the different protectant-type materials that I had available. Ren wax was middle of the road, and surprisingly so was the protectant that AG Russell sells. My test was a very informal test, maybe even crude by some standards, YMMV.Any opinions on this vs tuf cloth on carbon steel knives that are being used & carried?
I thought I might learn something by conducting my own test but instead of learning anything, I just became confused. My results don't make any sense because the bare steel had less corrosion than most of the treated steels.Renaissance wax is not a high performance coating for preventing corrosion, there are much better products on the market but they don't make the items look as nice. I did the usual informal test with a half dozen nails, some saltwater, and all of the different protectant-type materials that I had available. Ren wax was middle of the road, and surprisingly so was the protectant that AG Russell sells. My test was a very informal test, maybe even crude by some standards, YMMV.
It protects the blade from the air - oxygen and water. Also, to an extent from handling since sweat is a bit acidic.Question out of pure ignorance: is this purely for spit and polish, or does it actually serve a protective purpose?
I'd use it more for storage, if only because wax is harder to apply completely on a regular basis.Any opinions on this vs tuf cloth on carbon steel knives that are being used & carried?
How is it that mine is the 32nd response in this thread and not one of you folks has had a question about this?!? Not. One.I use it on my swords that I don't plan on using for awhile , one's I do use I use oil easier to apply ....
Well, that answers that, now doesn't it?!?
So it's like Rogaine for metal or Viagra for handles? I'm ordering extra..I heard it also stimulates hair growth and rejuvenates skin
(This is not medical advice.)
I can't say it's like those products, but I won't say it's not.So it's like Rogaine for metal or Viagra for handles? I'm ordering extra..
I have to agree with you. I live 50m from the sea and it fails miserably at long term corrosion protection.Renaissance wax is not a high performance coating for preventing corrosion, there are much better products on the market but they don't make the items look as nice. I did the usual informal test with a half dozen nails, some saltwater, and all of the different protectant-type materials that I had available. Ren wax was middle of the road, and surprisingly so was the protectant that AG Russell sells. My test was a very informal test, maybe even crude by some standards, YMMV.