I wanna make a dive knife, what steel?

G

gixxer

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Sep 21, 2006
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What would be the most rust resistant steel out there that would hold an edge forever and take the abuse? Poking fish after spearing, maybe dislodging spears from the rocks? Guess it could be summed up to super edge holding, decent prying strength, and super corrosion resistance in saltwater. S90V?? Oh yea, and it would be a 4 sided dagger grind, was thinking maybe 3/16 stock.

Tim
 
That would be a dive knife attached to a pry bar because as we all know you do not use a knife as a pry bar or screwdriver or anything like that. We all know it is use for cutting and whatnot.
 
It seems that dive knifed really need to be multi-purpose.

PICT2316.jpg


The blade on the small one is 3 3/4" long and 3/16" thick made by Wenoka with a Blackie Collins design. The longer blade is 7" long and 7/32" thick. Both of these knives have spent many hours in New England waters (AKA Atlantic Ocean) and the larger one was used to pry many objects from their perch.

The top one is marked 440 stainless, and the lower just stainless. These knives were purchased in the late 70's, maybe, before the more exotic corrosion resistant steels were manufactured :confused:.
 
Hi Gixxer, 440C comes to mind as does S30V & CPM154CM It will come down to personal preference as there are quite a few steels that would fill the bill. S90V wouldn't be my first choice for making a dive knife that you're dislodging spear tips with. Edge retention for S90V is phenomenal but there are always trade offs.
 
Jacob, You may bow fish, but you don't dive. A dive knife is mostly a prying tool and secondly a cutting tool.
Stacy

I have made them from titanium, but a simple stainless steel works better. 440, S30V,Any good stainless. Make them thick, HT to a tough ,almost springy, temper.
Stacy
 
David Wesner said:
Hi Gixxer, 440C comes to mind as does S30V & CPM154CM It will come down to personal preference as there are quite a few steels that would fill the bill. S90V wouldn't be my first choice for making a dive knife that you're dislodging spear tips with. Edge retention for S90V is phenomenal but there are always trade offs.
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I am currently working with CPM154 so I guess I could start there.

bladsmth said:
I have made them from titanium, but a simple stainless steel works better. 440, S30V,Any good stainless. Make them thick, HT to a tough ,almost springy, temper.
Stacy
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What RC would you go for? 58? 56? Oh you forgot barnacle scraper to attract the sheepies too!!

Thanks for the info guys...:)
 
With a dive knife corrosion resistance is key, as salt water especially is extremely corrosive. I would rather use 420 or 440A than S90V, and you might consider talonite/stellite. H1 or Cronidur 30 would be my top choices but they're not really available.
 
I'd go with CPM-154. Might want to up to 1/4" and then surface grind it down a hair on either side to like 7/32" just for that extra uuumpph. RC 58, maybe 56, but you'll lose some edge holding with 56. I tested a piece at both and 58 seemed to be a good medium.
 
Y'all seem to think a dive knife rusts. And it does IF you don't take care of it. Me I'd go with 1080 (or maybe 5160) drawn to not quite a spring temper (and probably I'll do that soon as I dive, I'll make it "take-down" style so I can clean it thouroghly). Of course I will probably make a couple of tools for different tasks, but I'm wierd that way.

ron
 
Here's a flash for ya - most dive knives are used as prybars :thumbup:more then they are used as knives. If you need a weapon take a smaller dagger with as a back up.:thumbdn::barf:

So an 8"-10" 440C (@RC 58) blade length ( maybe even bent 20 degrees 1.5" behind the tip to help lever stuff up ) with a hefty guard to pry/lever against works for me. 1/4" seems like the minimum thickness to me. No point, justa STRONG chisel edge about 1.25" - 1.5 wide in front with more of the edge behind it serrated then not. A notch for line cutting couldn't hurt anything either. All of this with a substantially longer then normal ( 6"+ ) Micarta slab handle behind it. No fancy tapered tang either. A thong hole/wrist loop and a screwed on hammer pommel could come in handy too.

The sheath is a worth a WHOLE new thread by itself..................

Syn
 
Well maybe its a location thing.I dove for many years all over Florida and lived and dove in the Bahamas for four years and I used my knife for cutting way more than a prybar and in fact hardly remember when I did use it for prying.My suggestion would be a 6"-8" straight blade of 440-C with an integral guard and Micarta handles.The sheath would be kydex with leg straps.Just my opinion, and good luck on the knife.Dave:)
 
J.McDonald Knives said:
That would be a dive knife attached to a pry bar because as we all know you do not use a knife as a pry bar or screwdriver or anything like that. We all know it is use for cutting and whatnot.
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Do you have anything worthwhile to contribute to the forums? Seriously, what is your problem? A knife is a tool, in certain situations it might be a tool used to save your life. It's common knowledge that dive knives are used for more than cutting, yet you spew this ignorant nonsense. I think you owe the OP an apology for this blather.

OP: I'm also leaning toward 440C for what you want. It's not super-steel, but it holds an edge well and is fairly shock and corrosion resistant.
 
440C, at least thats what several makers mentioned to me when I inquired about getting a custom folder for on the boat, sheepsfoot and marlin spike.
 
gixxer said:
What would be the most rust resistant steel out there that would hold an edge forever and take the abuse? Poking fish after spearing, maybe dislodging spears from the rocks? Guess it could be summed up to super edge holding, decent prying strength, and super corrosion resistance in saltwater. S90V?? Oh yea, and it would be a 4 sided dagger grind, was thinking maybe 3/16 stock.

Tim
Click to expand...


Back in the 70 and 80's BIG dive heavy knives were common...usualy stainless, black rubber handles.....serrated saw backs....some had a bent pry bar flat screw driver points, great for wrecking jobs......never very sharp!!,but they sure looked the part..lol.

Today they are much smaller and lighter, titanium being popular.

If I were to make a dive knife, I would probably make one out of a popular carbon steel, knowing that with the exception of titanium, all dive knives constantly used in salt water will eventualy rust anyway....... the blade would be left forge finished and pitted cos its eventual going to get that way anyway...... I would also make the handle out of rubber conveyer belting, maybe stacked like leather washers which would give a great grip, and make the scabbard out of compressed copper tubing.......I work on the theory that if its too shiny and expensive, I would lose it anyway:D


Make sure you show us when you have made it.:)
 
There are some dive knives already made out of Stellite/Talonite due to its rust-PROOF quality, and it was the first thing I thought of when I saw the topic. From what I've read it fits all your criteria, but it might be expensive, but I'm sure it would be an awesome knife. Make sure to show what you come up with!
 
This thread has got me thinking of making a dive knife again.
I have a full bar of David Boye's dendritic cobalt. It would make a nice dive knife with a 5-6" blade, 1.25" wide. Stacked handle of copper and neoprene. Bent pry blade. Line cutter on spine. Titanium or copper guard.
Stacy
 
i made two,,one from cm154 and the other out of stellite
ill try to post the link to them here
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=363320

i just got three more pieces of stellite in ,,and have two pieces of red coral for the scales of one,,and two pieces of tiger coral for the other,,the third i have not decided yet

IMO you should get a piece of stellite,,,costs more up front but not cost for heat treating,,,so its not too much more ,,,
 
Lol! You should have seen me at the dive shop trying to get a dive knife. After I got over the sticker shock (SEVENTY FREAKIN DOLLARS for a shorty 4" dagger one side serrated) for the Riffe silencer, I had to look at several to get one that had a decent straight edge grind, and one without burned tips from grinding too hard! My bro and wife were like "WTF JUST PICK ONE FOR CRYING OUT LOUD!!" The salesman had no idea how somebody could appreciate what I was looking for. It pained me enough to buy that knife, burned tip or not.

http://www.speargun.com/knives.htm

But anyhow, I think I would be looking at a blunt tip drop point with a zipper for fishing line. My only thing is there is the tradeoff. I want a dagger to dispatch fishies that I have not "stoned" with the spear, but still need a prybar type shape. Guess I could just carry TWO knives! BTW my idea for a sheath would be kydex with a super stiff lock molded in. Could even make a slightly bigger deal to hold both knives strapped to the leg side by side. But either way, I need to get some 1/4 stock cause all I have is 3/16. Especially if I want to pry stuff.
 
im pretty sure that manta industries sells small titanium prybars they are pretty popular with the new jersey divers.. or at least atlantic divers
maybe you could make yourself a sheath that holds your knive and the prybar
seems to me i saw the prybars on the manta website
 
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