I have three different methods to close mine one handed. All work.
Compress the lock by pushing with the thumb. It is not a method I would use hundreds of times a day, but if my other hand is occupied, it works. Just use your leg (or any other surface) to touch the spine.
If you are wearing a sturdy belt, you can hook the end on the belt. Push out and down. once the lock is compressed just touch the spine of the knife downward.
The other day, my other hand was occupied. I bit the lanyard in my mouth, and closed the blade with one hand. I did not even have to think about it.
I do think the design is a great one.
If you work the blade loose through hard use, tighten the pivot. You can also vice the sucker. It is mild stainless, so you can do a lot to fix it.
Not for everyone. It is not one I would hand to my grandma to figure out. Nor would I hand it to a younger kid.
I have let some of my scouts as young as 12 years old use mine, after telling them if they screwed around with it they would find out why I call it the Guillotine! They treated it with respect. No one got cut. (although the nerdy weinie kid in the group had hid dad there, and he frowned, and told his son not to try and use it).
I recommend the 2011 (new) Voyager Tanto or the Rajah II, both offerings by Cold Steel. These have better steel (AUS8), and CS really heat treats its blade steel right! The Voyager Tanto is outstanding because it has the outstanding Tri-Ad lock, which is the strongest folding knife locks in the world, bar none.
The Rajah II is one of the most outstanding knives ever made. It chops, cuts, opens in a snap and can be used as a fixed blade knife in most applications
Incredible strength in both the blade and the lock. The blade has an outstanding spine
and hollow grind. The other Voyagers are lighter, but are flat grinds.
You might prefer the clip point knives if the extra weight bothers you.
Also, check out these two videos by Nutnfancy:
[video=youtube;zn_df90ckMk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zn_df90ckMk[/video]
[video=youtube;3SHvzmUcIKc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3SHvzmUcIKc[/video]
When in doubt, check it out! Yeah!
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Watch that video, especially the slow motion parts, and you will realize that Nuttin fancy is full of it. He put tons of lateral torquing stress on the knife (you will see him twist and bend the blade to quite a degree). He then gasps and hand wrings, asking his "cameraman" (son I believe) to parrot his unbelieving "I put no side load or torque on the blade, it just snapped" routine.
I have never made a purchase decision on his drivel, nor will I. (this is simply my opinion. Everyone is entitled to watch his video's and make their own decisions based on what he presents).
If he told me the sky was blue, or the sun was yellow, I would have to walk out side to check.
You give me a blade, and I can break it doing something stupid. (within in reason. I bet a .4 blade could withstand my stupid, unless I went all Nuttinfancy on it, or got a hockey mask, vice and a sledge hammer.......which I find to be more entertaining that NF's video's).
The blade is thin enough on the Pocketbushman that hard side prying is nearly guaranteed to break it. It has a thin flat grind. It is a basic stainless at a reasonable hardness, and is priced accordingly. It is not a super steel. Not a shock or spring steel.
It is designed to cut. It does this pretty well. My Opinel will likely out sliced it, because the blade is about 1/2 as thick with a very thin edge. But it will take decent reasonable abuse and keep going.
The original failure in the NF video was a result of the channel having a half circle cut out in it. If you pulled the lanyard too hard, it could cause the spring to fail.
There are lots of people out there using these earlier models without issues.
But the design has been changed (for the better) and this is no longer an issue.