I want to start using stainless

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Randy3000

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Jun 3, 2017
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I have been making slip joints for awhile now, and it has been a wonderful and challenging experience so far. I have enjoyed figuring out design elements and how to make all the blades fit together and work in an attractive package. It is so challenging. I have a single blade, jack knife, half whittler, and swell back double blade designs that i like a lot. I am in the middle of my very first stockman which i am absolutely stoked about.

I have been using 1095, because i ordered way too much of it half year ago when i started. I hate the way the looks of my knives deteriate rather quickly when carried daily. I want to start using stainless liners, bolsters, spring, and blades. Either ATS-34 or equivalent composition. I know my heat treat setup is completely incapable of handling stainless, and i dont really want to invest in it at this point.

So i am thinking about sending the parts to be heat treated. I have thought it over, and i think it is pretty safe to do so. I would try a mock scenario using 1095 just to validate that it would work. Slip joints require the spring to be finished before you can fit the blades correctly, and so that is the main issue. I dont want to pay someone to heat treat and then get the parts back and they cant be used. I think i can just leave the tangs with plenty meat on them, and maybe for overlapping blades leave them a bit thicker and finish grinding after i get them back.

I have heard that changing steels totally changes things. Will a design i have for 1095 steel work if i change to ATS-34? What can i expect to be new challenges?

I have also thought about using 52100, which i believe i can heat treat myself. I believe it is probably the best non stainless steel to use for slip joints, due to it being corrosive resistant, a springy steel, and wear resistant (i believe it is used in ball bearings a lot). If people tell me stainless will be tricky, 52100 is my backup i guess.
 
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AEB-L or 154CM...are two stainless choices that are reasonable and easy to grind post heat treat. With slipjoints you want to cut and profile pre-heat treat you can set your spring angle also BUT I recommend all bevel grinding be done post heat treat. 52100 is a tricky steel to home heat treat without a controlled heat furnace or kiln. This steel due to it's high alloy content requires a stainless foil pouch to protect against the 1500F degree temp and LONG soak time to get all the alloy into solution.
 
i have done only carbon steels since 2004, just did my first batch of stainless 154-cpm blades. sent to peters heat treat. i honestly noticed no difference working with it to a mirror finish. just like carbon.
 
I also recommend CPM-154. It works well and is reasonably priced. It performs well in folder blades. HT is straight forward, and anyone who does stainless HT can do it. When not doing it myself, Peter's is my go-to treater. If doing singles or small batches, people like JT do them for a low price per blade.
 
Randy3000 said:
I have also thought about using 52100, which i believe i can heat treat myself. I believe it is probably the best non stainless steel to use for slip joints, due to it being corrosive resistant, a springy steel, and wear resistant (i believe it is used in ball bearings a lot).
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52100 is a good steel, but it's not the best or anywhere close to "corrosive resistant". I have a John Lloyd slip joint in 52100 and it's fantastic. Blade holds an edge very well and it has a 'nice dark patina'. It is a better steel than 1095, but W2 beats em both IMO.
 
Personally I'd use either cpm154 or 440c. At folder sizes the price difference is minimal enough I'd just go with cpm154
 
Of course i respect all the makers opinions here, but it would be nice to hear reasons for 154cpm and other choices, that way i understand for myself why it is the better choice.
 
CPM154CM is a particle metal produced by Crucible which gives a finer distribution of alloy elements in production. The Original 154CM was the upgrade equivalent to Hitachi ATS-34 which was surpassed by the CPM154CM by far the better quality blade steel. As the cutlery industry has moved forward better quality steels have been introduced and CPM154CM is among the better quality at a reasonable price for Hobby Knife Makers. You will find that many well known makers use CPM steels because of the quality of the blades they can produce.

http://www.crucible.com/PDFs/DataSheets2010/Datasheet CPM 154 CMv12010.pdf
 
was using cpm154 and swapped to CTS-XHP. seems like the least of your worries as you brought up parts fit up and finishe order. most of th esteels will not move around to much but when .001 matters you will need to finish all parts post HT. its a get them close and clean up from thr ajusting. the other thing is im not sure wht th "spring" temper is on most SS but im bettig its not the same as a hardened blade or a folder liner. going to need some testing for sure
 
Typically springs are tempered more than a blade. That brings up a good point, i guess i will need to have a discussion with them about what to temper at what temp?
 
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