**I wish CRKT would stop bead blasting their blade finish - What's your opinion?**

I've never had a problem with my CRKTs rusting even though I live in the relatively wet Pacific NW. But then my oldest CRKT is only about a year old now, so maybe there is some truth to them having "fixed" the rust problem in their newer knives?
 
I'll have to go against the herd on this one...
I don't mind bead-blasted, frosted, or satin finished blades--it's just not that big of a deal to me. In fact, I wish Spyderco offered more satin and bead-blasted knives instead of the "signal mirror" shine on their blades.

I also don't think CRKT bead-blasts their blades just to hide imperfections. I own a few CRKT knives and their fit and finish, and attention to detail, is terrific (except the extra abrasive thumbstuds and lock release on the M16).

I'm also surprised at the number of folks who don't mind rust-prevention on their high carbon knives (like Schrade Old Timers), but get all bent outta shape over bead-blasted blades.
Just different strokes I guess...

Allen.
 
I prefer beadblast to stonewash myself. Just can't get over that "galvanized" look.

I agree that beadblast makes perfect sense allowing CRKT to maintain their low price point. For the money, there's really little room to complain. If beadblast is the biggest complaint then they're doing something right.
 
I don't think that CRKT is bead-blasting the blades out of price.

Bead blasting is cheap, and helps to hide some of the blemishes created by the production process. It also reduces the reflectivity of the blade and gives them a unique look.

The Mo'Skeeter is about the lowest priced model currently in production from CRKT, and comes with a satin finished blade. I have a few older "Mirage" models that also have satin finished blades. CRKT is most certainly capable of producing a satin finish on a budget.

Honestly, I think that CRKT is using a bead blast finish ONLY to give their knives a "unique" look and feel. It is just an added benefit that it happens to reduce production costs.

AUS 6A is well known for its strong rust and stain resistance. But, I have found the beadblast finish to be highly unsatisfactory on the various AUS 6 blades I have purchased from CRKT. It is harder to clean and it rusts very easily.

Many times it has been suggested that CRKT should shift to a "better" steel. New models are now being produced mostly in AUS 8 steel, which I would rate as an improvement edge-holding wise, but I don't think it has nearly as good of rust and stain resistance.

Between the needless bead blast finish, and the newer, less rust resistant steel, I imagine that the newer models will rust like crazy.

If CRKT wants an unusual blade look and feel, I suggest they start using some kind of rust resistant blade coating.

Just my $.02

-- Rob
 
If beadblast is an abrasive system that is used as it is so cheap, why not use a stonewash finish as it does not atract the rust and hides the daily use marks very well.

In my opinion that and a switch to say, VG-10 or 10a steel would make me buy CRK&T knives again.

Bead blast sucks big time, I spent days getting a satin finish on my Gerber BMF knife.:mad:
 
Every production knife I get is immediately treated with a Tuf-cloth. If I use it a lot, it gets a re-application every few months. I have several fine CRKTs and have not had any sort of rust or pitting. To me, it is an easy trade off to have to use the Tuf-Cloth, given the overall value for the money offered by CRKT. I always treat all new knives, bead blasted or not. I'd gladly pay a dollar or two more for a satin finish just because I like it better.
Bead blasting is an inexpensive way to get that non reflective tactical look. For a time, the non-reflective aspect was a main issue among tactical knife buyers. I don't think it is quite the hot point it once was. Stealth is just not a requirement for most knife users. It is more for offensive than for defensive applications. Who buys a CRKT with the specific goal of sentry removal? Some might, but I bet they are in the small minority.
Dave
 
I'll do you one better, allenC. I like the CRKT beadblast, AND I think that the M16 thumbstud and liner lock fit and finish is fantastic. I could see how it might be a bit abrasive for some folks (i.e. pianists, surgeons, and braille readers ;)), but this seems to be deliberate rather than the result of inattention to detail. The checkering on my M16s is flawless, albeit quite sharp and grabby.
 
Let' s get technical here. Bead blast and sand blasting are quite different. And are often times used interchangeably without realizing the difference. Bead blast refers to using either ceramic (quite expensive) or glass beads whereas sandblast uses sand particles. It is said many times that actual bead blasting can in fact seal out the onset of corrosion since the blades surface is actually peened and compressed like that of the surface of a golfball. Sandblast simply abrades the surface with inconsistent surface dimensions/ indentations. Feel free to jump in to correct me if I am not totally accurate.

So, does CRK & T actually "bead" blast the blades???

Nakano
 
Never been quite clear on "bead blast" blade finishes. Are they the same as "stone washed" ? Is it a coating like that crap Busse puts on his combat grade blades or is it just a process?
 
Originally posted by Don Adelfson
Never been quite clear on "bead blast" blade finishes. Are they the same as "stone washed" ? Is it a coating like that crap Busse puts on his combat grade blades or is it just a process?
Click to expand...

Not quite. They are not coated finishes, but surface finishes.

Both are matte grey but bead blast finishes are nubby. It kinda looks like sandpaper that has lost it's coarsness. I guess it would look like a pebbled beach under a microscope. That's why it's full of microscopic pits which can attract rust if moisture is present.

Sandwash has swirly grind marks like when you sand or grind metal in circular motions. It looks like bare, unfinished steel.
 
bead blasting, or sand blasting creates little "pockets" (so to speak) that can trap moisture resulting in rust. stainles steel is not rust proof just stains-less. you can take a blade of aus-6 thats been satin finished (sanded to say, 400 grit) and a bead blasted, or sandblasted blade and expose it to damp weather and see which rusts first (and we'ere assuming both are heat treated the same).

Anyone who makes knives knows it takes less time and effort to sandblast a blade versus finishing it (sanding, buffing, ect.). There is a cost savings (in time and materials).
 
UPDATE: I emailed this thread to CRKT's customer service and they replied promptly. Here is their response:

"Thank you for the information posted on the forum. I have forwarded this e-mail to our owners to read as well.

I agree that bead blasting the steel can cause it to be a bit higher maintenance, however it is also true that the Tuf-cloth or a light weight 3 in 1 oil will handle the issue quite well. Preventive maintenance is the key.

Thanks again for your e-mail and for your business."

Thank you,

Carrie Trujillo



Columbia River Knife & Tool

1-800-891-3100
 
yep!!....sounds like it!!! theres one thing they didnt mention, of course this is by my own experience. I had a kasper folder with a really nicked up blade when i received it. Now mind you I didnt find this oput till later. as most of you know sandblasting, bead blasting, ect. can hide imperfections in the blade.
well my first order of business was to coat the blade in tuf-glide. what I found out a few days later was that the blade evidently had a bad nick that moisture got locked in by way of a coating of tuf-glide, got locked in real well!! the result was rust in that one place!!!
so tuf-glide, or no tuf-glide nothing is perfect!!!! you can coat a blade with anything, cooking oil, petroleum oil, knife oil, gun oil, ect, tuf-glide, ect. but if the blade has nasty imperfections sooner or later it catches up!!!
I had the same thing happen to one of my old avalanches that had the old sandblasted blade.
I took it new out of the box, coated the blade with tuf-glide, and packed it to take it to hawaii on a trip (was going to have ken onion sign it). took it out when I got it there...low..and behold...rust all over the blade!!!! :eek:

tuf-glide is good!!! its only failed me twice, but thats two times out of very, very, very, many!!!
 
I've been down this road before.
I sent them a letter as well.
Except I got an even MORE generic reply. It was pretty much a form letter. That's OK. Maybe it they keep hearing it they'll do something. If they DON'T listen to their customers then they end up with a bunch of customers like me. I don't buy new CRKT knives any more. I won't buy another new CRKT knife until they come out with some nice non-bead-blasted models.

I say "new" because I like the old, discontinued, Mirage and Commander series knives and I find myself picking them up now and then.

Remember the old Komodo Gold and Cobra CRKT knives? He-he. Icky-poo!
 
a form letter? do you think they have a pre-typed up letter they keep in a file that they "mail out" every time someone voices certain concerns??.....lol!!! hmmm......could be?!?;)

you never know????
 
Originally posted by rev_jch
a form letter? do you think they have a pre-typed up letter they keep in a file that they "mail out" every time someone voices certain concerns??.....lol!!! hmmm......could be?!?;)

you never know????
Click to expand...

Actually... yes. I do believe that.
This one might be called, "Bead-blast complaint response".
Wanna see a form letter? Send Taurus (guns) a letter about ANYTHING and see what you get back.
 
It's been said so many times, why does CRT produce some very nice knife designs and then uses such crappy steel? AUS 8 or 440C is not that much more expensive or difficult to tool and could not raise the wholesale cost on the knife by more thatn $1-2/knife. I just don't get it???????
 
well the m-18 has a frosted blade and aus-8, and the wasp has aus-118 satin finished blade!! so not everything is blasted, just....most.
despite all this they're still decent knives, better than most in their price category!!!
 
the bead blast finish on my M-16-03Z. But I got it as a sturdy beater. And with minimal care rust hasn't been a problem for me. But on an upper end model a choice would be nice.
 
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