I wish for help

Joined
Apr 8, 2014
Messages
4
I already made a post for some tips on my first knife and what I received, was nothing but helpful advice and for that I thank the whole bladeforums community. But their is still so much I don't know. It is my dream to one day be as good at bladesmithing as most of you and maybe open up shop. I know the magnitude of importance practice is, but I would like anybody's help about the fundamentals of the craft. For example if there could be an explanation of the basics of metallurgy, or the process of a good heat treatment and tempering, what tools I would need to be prepared. If you understand the premise of what I am talking about please help, you all have helped me once, and please do it again.
 
You ask a hard question, my best suggestion is google. To get answers to similar questions I went to google and it brought up a wealth of information including posts on bladeforum. It will also bring up posts on other forums and tutorials, articles, and much more posted on makers web sites. When you find something interesting make of note of some key words, and then search them, after a while you will get pretty deep into the caldron. Another suggestion is to print what you find to a PDF format, adobe PDF maker is free and will add a PDF printer to your print menu. Catalog your finds and you can create a great reference. For example I have a section called Metals for Heat treate. In it I have place each article I have found by steel type, 440c, CPM3v, 1080, 1095. This way when I have a heat treat question I go to the steel and see what there is.

Good luck
 
I already made a post for some tips on my first knife and what I received, was nothing but helpful advice and for that I thank the whole bladeforums community

. But their is still so much I don't know. It is my dream to one day be as good at bladesmithing as most of you and maybe open up shop.
I know the magnitude of importance practice is, but I would like anybody's help about the fundamentals of the craft.

For example if there could be an explanation of the basics of metallurgy, or the process of a good heat treatment and tempering, what tools I would need to be prepared.

If you understand the premise of what I am talking about please help, you all have helped me once, and please do it again.


This is the first time


http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...sh-to-learn-the-craft?p=13406081#post13406081
 
It's easy enough for me to post this again, but it hasn't really changed much.


The Count's Standard Reply to New Knifemakers V33

The answer to a 13 young student is different than a retired machinist
With members worldwide, you may have a local supplier, hammerin or neighbour.
Join our community by filling your profile with location (Country, State, City), age, education, employment and hobbies so we get a sense of where and who you are.

Look at the threads at the top of the page.

The basics in the simplest terms
Absolute Cheapskate Way to Start Making Knives-Printable PDF
http://www.2shared.com/document/hk4wQruA/Absolute_Cheapskate_Way_to_Sta.html
http://www.scribd.com/doc/3622507/Jones-Scott-Jonesy-Absolute-Cheapskate-Way-to-Start-Making-Knives


Web Tutorials
Detailed instructions http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=694673

The Things I Advise New Knife Makers Against-Printable PDF http://www.mediafire.com/?8og1ix21j9dcz4n

Handle Tutorial - Nick Wheeler-PDF http://www.mediafire.com/?02ra4do6xyzayeq
http://www4.gvsu.edu/triert/cache/articles/nw1/scales1.htm

Bob Egnath how to http://www.engnath.com/manframe.htm

Books
A list of books and videos http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9435307&postcount=43

BladeForums - E-books or Google books http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=603203

Books I like:
David Boye-Step by Step Knifemaking
Tim McCreight-Custom Knifemaking: 10 Projects from a Master Craftsman
Clear, well organized, available and inexpensive.

Knife Design:
Think thin. Forget swords, saw-tooth spines, guthooks, crazy grinds and folders for your first knife.

Look at hundreds of photos

Start with a drawing and post it, we love photos.
French curves, graph paper and an eraser are vital tools.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_bHFtVNs9tWA/TEj5Quiq1ZI/AAAAAAAAAI0/rn2EoHoXpVc/s1600/The+French+Curve.jpg

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1147466-How?p=13120810#post13120810

Then a cardboard cutout template & with handles, pins and such.
Use playdough to shape a comfortable handle, good handles are not flat.

How to post a photo
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...AL-Displaying-your-photographs-on-BladeForums

Google books thread for Lloyd Harding drawings, Loveless book & Bob Engnath Patterns. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=603203

Bob Engnath Patterns in a PDF http://www.mediafire.com/?qgx7yebn77n77qx


Forging Books:
Lorelei Sims-The Backyard Blacksmith - A modern book with colour photos - forging - no knifemaking.

Jim Hrisoulas
The Complete Bladesmith: Forging Your Way to Perfection
The Pattern-Welded Blade: Artistry in Iron
The Master Bladesmith: Advanced Studies in Steel

Machine Shop Basics -Books:
Elementary Machine Shop Practice-Printable PDF Http://www.archive.org/download/elementarymachin00palmrich/elementarymachin00palmrich.pdf

The Complete Practical Machinist-Printable -1885-PDF http://ia700309.us.archive.org/6/items/completepractic00rosegoog/completepractic00rosegoog.pdf
Right Click and save

The $50 knife Shop-not recommended
This book has a great title, but is NOT gospel. It confused me for a long time.
Forging is NOT necessary; file and grind to create a knife (stock removal)

Forget the Goop Quench BS
Back when they used whale oil, it was still liquid oil.
Use a commercial quench oil & match oil speed to the steel type;
Grocery store canola oil works for some steels like 1084.

Junkyard steel requires skill and experience to identify and heat treat it properly.
Forget Lawnmower blades and railroad spikes, start with a new known steel.
Good heat treating needs accurate temperature control and full quench.
Proper steel like 1084FG from Aldo is inexpensive and quench in Canola.

Cable damascus is an advanced project has no place in a beginner’s book.

The grinders are the best thing about this book, but 2x72” belt grinders plans are now free on the web.


Videos

Don't be this guy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gEOTtslHARQ

Heat Treating Basics Video-downloadable
Right click and save this. Watch it once a day for 10 days. http://www.archive.org/download/gov.ntis.ava08799vnb1/ava08799vnb1_512kb.mp4

Safety-video
Right click and save this. Watch it once a day for 10 days. http://www.howtomakeaknife.net/FreeStuff/SafetyVideo.wmv

Many knifemaking videos are available, some better than others.

The best beginner videos I have seen:
“Steve Johnson-Making a Sub-Hilt Fighter”

"Ed Caffrey - Basic Bladesmithing-Full DVD-ISO"

“Custom Knife Sheaths -Chuck Burrows - Wild Rose”
-(Paul Long has 2 videos, his sheath work & videos are fantastic, but more advanced-with inlays, tooling and machine stitching)

Green Pete's Free Video
Making a Mora bushcraft knife, stock removal, hand tools, neo tribal / unplugged heat treat.
Use a piece of known steel, not a file. This as an example of doing it by hand with few tools.
"Green Pete" posted it free.
Be sure to look at the other titles I mentioned too - spend some time searching.

Greenpete Knifemaking Basics-on TPB
http://thepiratebay.org/torrent/499...femaking_Basics_-_Make_a_Mora_Bushcraft_Knife

How to download that video
http://www.utorrent.com/help/guides/beginners-guide

Videos for rent,read the reviews, Some are good, some bad, expect to wait months
http://smartflix.com/store/category/9/Knifemaking

Draw Filing Demonstration
YouTube video -Draw Filing-for a flat finish http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dec78RQsokw

Nick Wheeler- Hand sanding 101 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I4x4QLpfnk

Steel
The “welding steel” at Home Depot / Lowes is useless for knives.
Forget about lawnmower blades ,files, railroad spikes and other unknown junkyard steels.
For the work involved, it is very cheap to buy and use a known good steel.

If you send out for heat treating, you can use
Oil quenched O1, 1095, 1084
Or air quenched A2, CM154, ATS34, CPM154, 440C, plus many others.

For heat treating yourself with minimal equipment, find Eutectoid steel and quench in Canola oil.
1084FG sold by Aldo Bruno is formulated for Knifemaking, Cheap & made for DIY heat-treat.
http://njsteelbaron.com/
Phone # 862-203-8160

Suppliers List
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=699736

Heat Treating
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9143684&postcount=7

You can send blades out for heat treating at $10 or $15 per blade for perfect results.

Air Hardening Stainless Steel Only
Buck Pau Bos -Be sure to check the Shipping and Price tabs.
http://www.buckknives.com/index.cfm?event=bio.paulBos#
http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/privacy.php#services

Oil Hardening Carbon Steels and Air Hardening Stainless Steel
http://www.petersheattreat.com/cutlery.html
http://www.knifemaker.ca/ (Canadian)

FAQ's
http://www.hypefreeblades.com/faq.html

1095 is good carbon steel, but a bad choice for a beginner with limited equipment.
1095 is "Hypereutectioid" and needs precise temperature control and proper fast quench oil Like Parks 50 or Houghton K
Kevin Cashen - 1095 - hypereutectoid steel
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/673173-Working-the-three-steel-types

If you are sending one or 2 knives out for heat treatment, use 154-CM or CPM-154 CPM-s35vn Elmax, and ship it out to TKS -Texas Knifemaker Supply
It's the cheapest way to do 1 or 2 due to minimum charges.


Quenchants for Oil hardening steel
Forget the Goop Quench and Motor oil.

Use commercial quench oil & match oil speed to the steel type;
The best explanation and classification oil speeds I've seen
http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?28197-Hardening-II-Quenching

Grocery store canola oil works well enough for your first knife-if you use the right steel like 1084

Brine and water are cheap, and technically correct for "water hardening" steels W1 and 1095 but a fast oil like Parks 50 or Houghton Houghto Quench K are less likely to give you broken blades
If you use water or brine, expect a "tink" and a cracked blade

Don't quench in a plastic pail of oil

Glue – Epoxy
Use new slow setting 30 min to 1 hour, high strength epoxy to attach blades to handles and seal out moisture.
Slow epoxy is stronger and gives you time to work with it.
Surface Prep is vital, drill tang holes/ grind a hollow, roughen the surfaces with abrasive or blasting is best.
Ensure the surface is clean and no oil including fingerprints.
Use Acetone & Alcohol, or Blasting.
Don't over clamp it A “glue starved joint” is weak when all the adhesive is squeezed out.

Brownell's Acraglas
West Systems G Flex
JB Weld-leaves a grey line


Grinder / Tools

Hand Tools
You can do it all by hand with files and abrasive cloth like the Green Pete video.
Just use 1084 instead of a file.
spheroid annealed steel is butter soft to file.

Stacy - 10 Tools
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1049666-Ten-Tools?p=11983527#post11983527

Examples of filing jigs
http://www.flemingknives.com/imagesPrime/FileStation/KPicB007.jpg
Http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8486/8152684286_312b9fc8da_b.jpg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9iNDRwwBQQ#t=330

Grinders
A professional three or four wheel 2x72 is worth it
In my opinion, variable speed and a small wheel attachment are essential on a good grinder.
You can almost always improve tracking with more belt tension. It needs to be way tighter than you first think.

Entry Level Grinders
Sears Craftsman 2x42 belt grinder

Low Speed Modification Craftsman 2x42 belt grinder http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qfYT_m2Tw0


Commercial Production 2 x 72” Belt Grinder Reviews
http://www.prometheanknives.com/shop-techniques-3/grinders


DIY 2 x 72” Belt Grinders

KMG Clone Free Plans
http://www.metalwebnews.com/manuals/knife-grinder.pdf

NWG No Weld Grinder-buy plans
http://usaknifemaker.com/plans-for-the-no-weld-grinder-sander-nearly-50-pages.html

EERF Grinder (EERF =“Free” backwards)
http://www.wilmontgrinders.com/Pages/EERFGrinder.aspx
http://blindhogg.com/blueprints.html

Buy the kit
http://polarbearforge.com/grinder_kit.html

What Belts to buy?
http://usaknifemaker.com/abrasive-belt-basics-what-kind-should-i-buy.html


VFD Variable Speed made simple

Step pulleys are not as cheap as you may think
Maska steel pulleys are good plus shaft, bearings, belt

It all adds up to about 1/2 the price of a KBAC-27D

I like direct drive with no belts using a VFD and 3 phase motor for about $200 over the price of the step pulleys with finer control.

NEMA 1 VFD’s are designed to keep your fingers out and the metallic dust intrusion will smoke it.


Motor
3 phase 220v 1.5 HP motor, TEFC, frame 56 or 56C,
RPM is up to you some use1700 RPM at double speed.
Make sure it has a footed base for the KMG and NWG, or a C flange face mount for Bader, Bee, Wilton and GIB styles.
I get them on ebay, even with paying $100 for shipping to Canada I save $ on used motors

The 1.5 HP combination is the most common
It allows you to plug into any 110vac, 15 amp outlet.
A 2 HP motor requires a 220vac input.


VFD
KBAC-27D
http://www.kbelectronics.com/Variable_Speed_AC_Drives_Inverters/AC_Drives_NEMA_4X.html
http://www.kbelectronics.com/manuals/kbda_manual.pdf
Use the Distributor Locator to find a local source, online sources may be cheaper.

There are cheaper units, but the only VFD I have found that runs a 1.5 HP motor on a 110v 15 amp input is the KBAC-27D

It is NEMA 4, sealed from metal dust

Good community and company support, manuals, hook-up diagrams, photos and settings.
If you buy a bargain vfd, you're stuck with a chinglish manual and ridiculous programming.

I like that I can buy it in person from a local distributor in Canada.

Travis W reports running a 2 HP on a 110v circuit, but I haven’t tried it.

Hookup is simple
http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/VS-setup.html


Safety Equipment
Protect your -Eyes, Ears, Fingers, and Lungs – remove jewellery and use safety gear.

Respirators
Chronic lung disease and cancer really suck the joy out of life.

If you can't breathe, nothing else matters.

Wearing a mask and glasses on the top of your head doesn't count.

The minimum I would consider are silicone half masks with a P100 Filter
3M 7500
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediaw...Ox_Uev7qe17zHvTSevTSeSSSSSS--&fn=CH7500FP.pdf

and North 7700
http://www.amazon.com/North-Safety-770030L-Silicone-Respirator/dp/B002C08YCW
http://www.amazon.com/North-7580P100-P100-Particulate-Cartridge/dp/B000UH6PSE/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_b.

Use a VOC & P100 combo cartridge for acetone and glue fumes.
Prefilters can snap over the main filter for longer life.
There are 3 sizes get fitted in person

Shave, also test the every time.

For beards
3M PAPR
Resp-O-Rator
3m Breathe Easy
Trend Airshield Pro
Air Cap II


Search

This Google page searches BF well.
http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=011197018607028182644:qfobr3dlcra

Get rich making knives ?
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...knife-making-worth-it?p=11980504#post11980504

A shop visit
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1166688-How-to-get-a-shop-invite

V33 March Jan 27, 2014

Countavatar.jpg
 
Last edited:
TYPICALLY knifecrafting/bladesmithing isn't something you learn out of books or by watching YouTube videos. You can certainly learn ABOUT it by doing that, Butttttttttttttttttt, you learn TO DO it by taking a chunk of steel and filing/gnawing/grinding away whatever doesn't look like a cutting tool to YOU. After you've done that a few times you'll know whether you wanna be a knifemaker/bladesmith. You might not like how hard and dirty the work is, to say nothing of the tools you'll need to use. Then maybe you'll send some of those blades out somewhere to be heat treated, finish them up with handles, sharpen them and try out your work.

That said if you've read everything single thing written in The Count's Standard Reply to New Knifemakers V33 posted above you will have a notion of what you'll be needing to learn. He was nice enough to post it for you a second time. TAKE THE HINT. Show him (and the other members of BladeForums) the respect of taking the advice that was freely given. Once you've done that work AND PUT IT TO WORK BY actually MAKING something that resembles a knife, you will have a VALID basis for asking questions.

You're putting the cart before the horse here.YOU don't need to know much about metallurgy or heat treating to grind out a cutting tool.

Lots of people here will help you but don't fight with them when they're trying to do that.

Corey "synthesist" Gimbel
 
I think the problem is your request is FAR too broad. Narrow in on something specific you want to know... not the generalities of heat treatment (which vary by steel) or a general discussion of tools (of which there are many that could be useful in various circumstance). You need to get a tighter focus on what you want to know.

A good first step is to read the information linked in the Count's reply.
 
Most of us get a bit overwhelmed when embarking on this journey. A few of the tools you will need are attention to detail, perseverance and a hunger for knowledge. Read EVERYTHING you can get your eyes on....at least once. Much of the technical information is hard to remember the first time around. Read and re-read then read it again. Even if you are a creative person and are good at building things with your hands do not expect your early tries to be what you hope them to be. There is a learning curve. Some move up the curve faster than others. The people who tend to move up faster are those that listen to advice and practice, practice, practice. Many of the steps in making a knife require long hours of hard work and elbow grease. Do not skip steps or take the easy way out. You will only be cheating yourself. Do your very best at every step no matter what "very best" means for you. It's different for everybody. Just do the best you can. I promise, you won't recognize the work you do at this stage a year from now. The Count doesn't post his "standard reply to new knifemakers V33" for his health. There is a TON of invaluable information there. Take your time and investigate all of it. Tools and equipment, brands of this and that are not so important. You can make a great knife with the simplest of tools and horrible knives with the most expensive tools. You will acquire what you need to make the knives YOU make over time. All the information you need regarding metallurgy, heat treatment or any other aspect of the craft is covered in the resources listed in the Count's reply. We've all been where you are. Any question you have asked or will ask has been asked by those who came before you a hundred times. It's ok. That's why all those questions and answers have been saved in the stickies so we can refer back to it when needed. If you can, find an experienced bladesmith in your area that gives classes and sign up. There are some things that are learned much faster by having an experienced person show you. Good luck.
 
It is good to get a general education before starting on the work... to that end, there are several beginning knifemaking books listed in the Count's reply.
Then, start to make a simple knife. Things are best learned right when you need to apply them- at least if you want the knowledge to stick. While you're making your first simple knives, any gaps in your book learnin' can be filled by searching here, or asking questions if you really can't find the answer.
 
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