I you had to choose.....BWM, or Rodent 9, or Basic 10

Well said RokJok!!! Personally I don't like any of the Res-C blades from any of the BusseKin. I like a large grip to hold onto. Fusions & BWM types are way better for me. If the Res-C hilt was about an 1" longer and with more thickness then I would be tempted to reavaluate.
 
<Flux> said:
As you can tell, I am biased towards Res-C when it comes to 9"-10" blades. As a matter of fact, I am thinking of trading my second B-10 LE for a B-11 and filming an epic Res-C chop-off between the Basic 10-LE, Basic 11, Dog Father, DF-LE, Satin Battle Rat, and Scrap Yard 9-11 (when it comes out.) I may throw my Rodent 9 and NMSFNO into the mix just for the fun of it.
QUOTE]

Me too! If you need a regular Battle Rat and a Battle Guard to add to the mix, let me know and you can borrow mine! I'd love to see all these Res-C handled blades in an epic chop off!!!
Click to expand...
 
Joe, you can't go wrong with the Basic 10. A lot of us have been waiting for some satin INFI w/ Res-C for years...
 
The pics below with some history of the loop & wrap are found at:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/395370-Non-snagging-lanyard-loop-tutorial

l2lku2 said:
...BWM handles give me pinky-bite after a while. That may just be because of how I grip the knife at the rear of the handle with a relatively loose grip. I can eliminate that by gripping more to the middle but that reduces performance and you have to grip much tighter so the knife does not slide forward so your hand fatigues faster.
Click to expand...
To alleviate the need for a hyper-grip while chopping, here is a lanyard wrap method attributed to Col. Applegate. Wrapping the lanyard loop around your hand this way secures the handle in your hand against both hand-sliding forward on a thrust stroke and against the knife taking a flyer if your grip fails during a chopping stroke.
Akabu_Loop_Colonel_Applegate_Lanyard_hand_wrapjpg.jpg


I call the sliding rubber washer loop in the pics the "Akabu Loop" after the BFC member who first showed it to me here on the forums. The pics show two methods to attach the loop to the butt of a knife handle. The slider shown is a bevel-shouldered rubber faucet repair washer (aka Bibb washer), size 00 (zero-zero) fits paracord with sufficient friction to hold the loop at interim sizes.

To adjust the size of the loop on your hand, you pull one or the other leg of the loop. That makes the leg of the loop shorter and snugs the loop tighter to your hand. Which leg you pull determines which direction the washer slides across the back of your hand (sliding around the front (or back) of your thumb at the start of the adjustment).

Cow hitch loop threaded back through itself:
Akabu_Loop_cow_hitch_on_machetejpg.jpg


Attaching the loop via a wrap around the exposed tang hole/slot (Okuden Sharp Thing II (ST-II) in this case):
Akabu_Loop_construction_Okuden_STIIjpg.jpg
 
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RokJok, this method works really well and I'd recommend it too if not for only one issue...
... the paracord digs into my thumb web. And it chafes as well. And after a while, after all that friction drying it out, it eventually turns red and sore.

Wondering if you've found anyway to avoid that... maybe by padding up on the paracord?
 
Gary, I usually wear a pair of those rubber-palmed work/garden gloves doing yard work (I have wuss hands. ;) ) so I haven't noticed the aggravation you mention.
 
RokJok, you are correct. Use of a lanyard does eliminate a lot of the issues with the rear designs of many handles e.g. the BWM handles with pinky-bite at the bottom and the M9 / M9LE where the slightly raised pommel area with the lanyard hole at the top bites the bottom edge of the hand. I also use bicycle inner tubes to eliminate issues with handle texturing and to reduce shock a little.

I actually use the forward lanyard (Osborne method) on my choppers but when I test and provide comment I usually do not include lanyard use and inner tube effects because not everybody uses them. But I think I should probably in future also comment on the differences I find with and without lanyard & tube use because it does change the rankings for me. It is one of the many reasons I like Bussekin - the forward tube and talon hole that enables forward lanyard use.

But like Gary said, even lanyard use causes some issues with extended use if you just use single paracord that digs in. I am trying to find some type of braided or webbing/strap type forward lanyard that will spread the pressure over a larger area.

Here is a thread discussing the two methods (Applegate and Osborne) and I posted some videos from Ankerson and Kylie that demonstrate each.

l2lku2 said:
I support using the forward lanyard. I use it on virtually all my choppers. The knife stays secure in your hand while chopping and it does not swing at all when you relax / release your grip, it just stays in your hand between your thumb and index finger. Even safer than the wrap around method IMO.

Pictures with the forward lanyard:

DSC_1596_resize.jpg


Ankerson demonstrating forward lanyard safety:

[video=youtube;UU__hqhUM6Q]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UU__hqhUM6Q&feature=player_embedded[/video]
Click to expand...

l2lku2 said:
I think this is the method that FTB is referring to:

[video=youtube;N2rLv65M_ys]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N2rLv65M_ys[/video]

He also demonstrates the forward lanyard method:

[video=youtube;S5Gtbl45pVg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S5Gtbl45pVg[/video]
Click to expand...
 
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I tie my own chopping lanyard off the same idea that rokjok showed, here are some pics, the increased surface area helps the paracord not dig into the thumb webbing so bad.

14a607a7.jpg

f318283c.jpg

d6053195.jpg


I agree that a forward lanyard position is "safer" if you lose control of the blade the point will go to the sky, but this works great for me and if you need to let go of the knife for some reason as has been pointed out to me on the HI forum you can:thumbup:
 
Those look great drbarnes, that is exactly the type of solution I have been looking for.
 
If I had to bet my life on my choice it would have to be a BWM of the three. It is a BIG knife but still would be my pick of the three.
 
Guys. pics or its not worth it!:)

Here are the BWBM, Basic 11, Basic 10, and the Rodent 9

CIMG0143.jpg


CIMG0145.jpg


the handles

CIMG0144.jpg


CIMG0148.jpg


The spines

CIMG0149.jpg



hope it helps with all of them together :thumbup:
 
My order of preference would be:
Basic 11
BWM
Basic 10
Rodent 9

...but a Battle Rat could, and for me does, easily take the place of either/both of the last two.

These are in sorted by chopping performance after an afternoon trying them all out.
33y0ztt.jpg
 
I would not go for R9 - already got M9 & Mastiff - different flavours of the same candy.

I've been looking at getting a BWM for quite a while now, but with B10 not sure now. Would be nice to handle, use and compare both, but for that i guess would need to visit Rob or Andy, they're probably the only ones in Australia to have them both.
 
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