Ice Razor Process

I think I am going to try to make an icy street.

It will be a cheap way to see if I am patient enough for this process.
 
Gunsite said:
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That...Is...AWESOME!!! I'm just blown away by that 'Ice finish', and GREAT PHOTO too!!!!!
I've GOTTA try this! Thank you for the tutorial, it's been very educational for me. :D
Jaxx:cool:
 
I think that new scrapyard street scrapper would be a good candidate for this treatment. I wonder if the paint remover would damage the Res C. It would be a very cool little satin or ice 4 incher for relatively cheap (on the INFI scale, at least!).
 
thanks for the info. I am going to go try it on my neigbors car first.:thumbup:
 
its pretty caustic stuff pedro. My feeling is that it would damage the Res C but I've never tried it so I am curious to know the answer to that myself.
 
I would hate to try this procedure on a real meaner and mess up a very nice, very expensive knife. On the scrapper though I would try it, unless I knew it would mess up the Res C. Anyone out there with an answer to this question?
 
You are a very good spokesman for Sears! As such, your new name is Bob Vila :D Just kidding. Awesome job on the mirror finish. :thumbup: I'm going to try it on the Street Scrapper...
 
Question about stripping the blade: as the stripper removes both paint and epoxy, does it damage the micarta handles since they are made with epoxy?

I realize you would likely try to keep the stripper off the handles as much as possible but it is unavoidable to some extent.

Just curious.
 
Locopelli said:
Question about stripping the blade: as the stripper removes both paint and epoxy, does it damage the micarta handles since they are made with epoxy?

I realize you would likely try to keep the stripper off the handles as much as possible but it is unavoidable to some extent.

Just curious.
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No, The stripper doesn't harm the micarta. If you run a search, Cliff Stamp soaked it in about every chemical, and nothing seemed to hurt it.
 
cstorr2004 said:
You are a very good spokesman for Sears! As such, your new name is Bob Vila :D Just kidding. Awesome job on the mirror finish. :thumbup: I'm going to try it on the Street Scrapper...
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Thanks! ...I actually work for Sears...
So I guess that's why I bought everything there. :D
 
Awesome tutorial!:cool:

I really like the HR much more without the bevels:thumbup:
And that ice finish is also amazing:cool:
 
Cobalt said:
thanks for the info. I am going to go try it on my neigbors car first.:thumbup:
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Too funny!
 
Gunsite said:
To remove the Hell Razor bevels I needed some agressive sanding. To save me loads of time, I bought a kit from Sears that chucks into a drill. It has a black plastic disk, with which you can change grits of sandpaper.
This is a picture of the disk, and the changable pads.
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Beautiful job, Gunsite! I like that look a lot! :thumbup:

Please don't take this as a flame but I have a question for yourself and the masses:

We've been cautioned in that past about using any power tools on the blades when refinishing. Specifically, ultra hi-speed dremels because their hi-rpm can make small hot spots that can damage the heat treat. Now, the big sanding discs you are using are probably only a few hundred RPM as opposed to the Dremels making 2k-10k rpm.

If one of us wanted to try this at home (me! me!) are we pretty safe using the power method if we stick to slow revs like those delivered by a full size drill? I spent hours and hours finishing my last one completely by hand. :o

GS and other knowledgeable HOGs pipe in please? I'm very impressed with your results but am a little frightened of ruining the HT of my INFI if I try an aggressive power method. GS and other knowledgeable HOGs pipe in please?

Again, beautiful results GS! :thumbup:
 
you'd really have to let it sit for awhile to get it anywhere near hot enough to ruin the ht. That being said, I'd stick with the nonwoven abrasive dics (the green one in the upper right in the pic) myself. It would go slower but they aren't as aggressive as sandpaper and should not build up anywhere near as much heat. But just keep it in motion and let the blade cool off every minute or so and you should be good.

I use mostly 7" fibrebacked sanding discs and 3" nonwoven for my work. On SS, the sanding discs will definetely heat it up quick. I've yet to get any heat discoloration on SS or bronze with the nonwoven though.

Hope this helps!
 
Gunsite,

WOW! the polished finish on your Ice Razor and Ice Warden are AMAZING!

Thanks for posting the process! :)
 
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