I'd like to buy my first traditional folder, need some tips

jc57 said:
That's a Chestnut Bone CV 2013 production model bought sight unseen over the Internet. I was amazed at the fit and finish on it. It's certainly not a scientific sampling but of all my Case knives it seems like they get the Chestnut Bone CV knives right most of the time. Of the seven Chestnut CV Case knives I have owned, all have been great.
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Wow I think that just shot to the top of my Wish List! Very nice. Mini Trapper or standard Trapper? Thanks thats awesome.
 
kriller1217 said:
May go with the trapper in yellow synthetic, thoughts??
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If I'm not mistaken that particular model in yellow is THE biggest selling and oldest of all the Case pocket knives. That one is a classic. It's big at just over 4" closed if that fits your needs for a pocket knife.
 
arizonaranchman said:
If I'm not mistaken that particular model in yellow is THE biggest selling and oldest of all the Case pocket knives. That one is a classic. It's big at just over 4" closed if that fits your needs for a pocket knife.
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Really? Nice. I can't decide between that or the mini.
 
Went with the mini, thanks guys! I'll be sure to let you know how I like it in 3 days or so when it comes in.
 
OK noob question. What angle are these knives sharpened at from the factory? I have a sharpmaker, an edge pro, and strops , if its 20 degrees from the factory I'd be most comfortable with using the sharpmaker. I'm a fan of ridiculously sharp edges...
 
CV Mini Trapper in chestnut bone (with some nice patina after use.)
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kriller1217 said:
OK noob question. What angle are these knives sharpened at from the factory? I have a sharpmaker, an edge pro, and strops , if its 20 degrees from the factory I'd be most comfortable with using the sharpmaker. I'm a fan of ridiculously sharp edges...
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i seem to recall that the factory edge for most pocket knives is somewhere around 23 degrees. sharp enough to cut but thick enough to for some strength
although there is a little wiggle room to tweak it for personal use/needs
 
So with a carbon blade, patina is a good thing correct? Seems like I have a whole new knife world to learn, haha.
 
Look in the traditional sale section until someone puts up a Schrade USA Old Timer 34OT. Be sure it has the USA on it. The blade should be carbon. It might be "new" old stock still in the box, or maybe used. It will be well under $50. Guys here are honest , so they will tell you what shape it is in if it is used.
 
Everybody around here carries a 3254, or 3207, Case Trapper, or Mini Trapper in Yellow Delrin, and CV. They're very common, and popular knives, you can't go wrong with them. I say go for it. Delrin is very durable, and easier to spot when dropped. A very practical choice.
 
kriller1217 said:
So with a carbon blade, patina is a good thing correct? Seems like I have a whole new knife world to learn, haha.
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Yes, you do. Lol.

Here's a primer. Patina is basically controlled rusting. It can form a protective barrier that will keep heavy rust from forming. It is black oxidation, as opposed to red oxidation.
Go to your local druggist (or Wal-Mart, whatever), go to the laxative aisle and get a small bottle of mineral oil. Take a tooth pick and drop a single drop in the joints every once in a while, like maybe once a month or so. You can also wipe the blades with the oil to keep them clean. Clean, dry, and oiled is the way to go with carbon steel. Use the knife and you won't have to worry about rust. I'm a one knife guy, so mine gets used. If you rotate between 3 or 29 you will have to be more careful to not put a knife away dirty or wet.

You can force a patina several different ways. Stick the knife in a potato for a day or so, wrap a paper towel soaked in a weak acid (vinegar, lemon juice, etc) for an hour or so, rub mustard on the blade, cut warm beef, etc. Or you can use the knife and just keep it clean, dry, and oiled and you'll be fine. It's a knife, not a diamond ring, although some guys tend to treat them as such. To each their own.

As far as sharpening, I just free hand now. However, I used to use a Lansky system at 15 degrees each side. It seemed to do well. Now I have no idea what angle I use, but my bevels seem a bit more acute than some people here. I like them like that. It is my opinion that, given the difference in hardness, GEC 1095 might tolerate a slightly more acute bevel than Case's CV.

Get or make a loaded strop. If you use the knife heavy that day, run the knife over the strop to bring back the edge. Keep your knife sharp, you never know when you'll need a sharp knife.

And most of all, if you have any questions, just ask. We are always glad to help.
 
1095 steel is going to naturally darken over time. If you force a patina as described above it's immediate. If you just let the knife take on it's own personality over time (which is what I do), it will gradually darken from exposure to handling, perspiration and whatever environment it's used in.

Unless you take efforts to polish it, its going stain and accumulate dark spots initially. At first it's awkward looking and mottled if allowed to patina naturally. But eventually it will even out to what you see in the pics here of old knives.

1095 has character. It refects it's life and use and becomes sort of a part of it's owner. To me this is what attracts me to these old fashioned classics and makes them interesting. They have personality and become part of their owner if allowed to. If you use your knife for food prep it will definitely acquire a patina much more quickly from exposure to mild acids in differents foods, especially fruit.
 
arizonaranchman said:
1095 has character. It refects it's life and use and becomes sort of a part of it's owner. To me this is what attracts me to these old fashioned classics and makes them interesting. They have personality and become part of their owner if allowed to.
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Well said sir. Well said. That's exactly why I like carbon steel. I age and stain and don't look quite I used too. Neither should my knife.
 
My advice is to read everything suggested here, and then not buy any of the suggestions, at least not online, with an Opinel being a possible exception. Visit as many flea markets/antique malls/thrift stores etc. It can be surprising to find what works in hand concerning blades, handle shapes, materials. You can find great sub $20 deals that can get you introduced to traditional folders. As others have said, some work may be in order. As long as springs are fairly tight, with little wobble then a gem or two or three are waiting for you. You will end up buying more later, why not start out more inexpensive until you find out what works for you, then decide if you want to upgrade. Many times you might not need to upgrade!

Each of these three knives (except the Northwoods with cutouts in the blade) was found for $20. I would suggest looking for a two blade pen knife or trapper, a three blade stockman- with a punch third blade in my opinion, but any three blade will do. Add an Opinel and you can have an one/two/three blade combo, with a variety of blade shapes, handle materials ( I like bone and wood but many plastics are quite capable and look quite nice. Plus taking the time out for horsefly in the search can be quite nice in itself. Good luck on your search.
 
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