idea 1 - double bitted hatchet.

Howard Wallace

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Nesmuk's old book "Woodcraft and Camping" tells of a unique double bitted hatchet he had made and used for years with great success. Hoodoo posted a scanned picture from the old book in another forum. Here it is.
nessmuksknives2.jpg

Nesmuk says "I prefer the double blade. I want one thick, stunt edge for knots, deers' bones, etc., and a fine, keen edge for cutting clear timber."

I've never seen a hatchet like this, but I would get one if I could. Do you guys think a hatchet like this with a belt sheath would make a good project for HI?
 
I'm all for new and interesting sharp, shiny peices of steel. Like Bill says though, make a model and it can be done.
 
'don't much about 'hawks and hatchets, but
the dual purpose design("..one thick, stunt edge for knots, deers' bones, etc., and a fine, keen edge for cutting clear timber.")
appeals to me.
 
:
Howard I like it!!!!
smile.gif

And I have one that my cuz made for me.
biggrin.gif

Mine is smaller than a regular double bit axe, but not by too much,and a pic is somewhere around here, maybe in the archives?
The idea of having two different edges is a good one.


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>>>>---Yvsa-G@WebTV.net---->®

"VEGETARIAN".............
Indin word for lousy hunter.
 
I have a couple of double bitted axes. They are great tools, although somewhat less forgiving to the careless than regular axes.

Nesmuk does not give the weight or dimensions of his "pocket axe." I'm thinking of something considerably smaller than a regular axe. Perhaps 1 lb. total. That way it could easily be carried on a belt or in a pack.

Any other opinions on appropriate size?
 
George W. Sears, or Nesmuk, writes in a charming style. Camping and Woodcraft was published first in 1920. You can still pick it up new for about $6.

Here is what he wrote about the hatchet.

“The hatchet and knives shown in the engraving will be found to fill the bill satisfactorily so far as cutlery may be required. Each is good and useful of its kind, the hatchet especially, being the best model I have ever found for a “double-barreled” pocket-axe. And just here let me digress for a little chat on the indispensable hatchet: for it is the most difficult piece of camp kit to obtain in perfection of which I have any knowledge. Before I was a dozen years old I came to realize that a light hatchet was the sine qua non in woodcraft, and I also found it the most difficult thing to get. I tried shingling hatchets, lathing hatchets, and the small hatchets found in country hardware stores, but none of them were satisfactory. I had quite a number made by blacksmiths who professed skill in making edge tools, and these were the worst of all, being like nothing on the earth or under it—murderous looking, clumsy, and all too heavy, with no balance or proportion. I had hunted twelve years before I caught up with the pocket-axe I was looking for. It was made in Rochester, by a surgical instrument maker named Bushnell. It cost time and money to get it. I worked one rainy Saturday fashioning the pattern in wood. Spoiled a day going to Rochester, waited a day for the blade, paid $3.00 for it, and lost a day coming home. Boat fare $1.00, and expenses $2.00, besides three days lost time, with another rainy Sunday for making leather sheath and hickory handle.
My witty friends, always willing to help me out in figuring the cost of my hunting and fishing gear, made the following business-like estimate, which they placed where I would be certain to see it first thing in the morning. Premising that of the five who assisted in that little joke, all stronger, bigger fellows than myself, four have gone “where they never see the sun,” I will copy the statement as it stands today, on paper yellow with age. For I have kept it over forty years.

A Woodsman

To getting up one limber-go-shiftless pocket-axe:

$3.00 Cost of blade
1.00 Fare on boat
3.00 Expenses for 3 days
3.75 Three days lost time at $1.25 per day
2.00 Two days making model, handle and sheath, say
------
12.75 Total
2.00 Per contra, by actual value of axe
------
10.75 Balance

Then they raised a horse laugh, and the cost of that hatchet became a standing joke and a slur on my “business ability.” What aggravated me most was, that the rascals were not so far out in their calculation. And was I so far wrong? That hatchet was my favorite for nearly thirty years. It has been “upset” twice by skilled workmen; and, if my friend “Bero” has not lost it, is still in service.
Would I have gone without it any year for one or two dollars? But I prefer the double blade. I want one thick, stunt edge for knots, deers’ bones, etc., and a fine, keen edge for cutting clear timber.”
 
Hey Howard! I have something for you. In my search for strops I came across this www.members.tripod.com/ssidders/id76.htm Look familiar? Now I don't know about the quality of this man's work, but if they're anything like they look I have a feeling that you may have just found your double bitted hatchet.
 
Thank you, Kamagong. I've bookmarked the page for a time when I have more liquid funds. It looks like he does custom work so I could get just the size I want.

Of course, I already know the quality of the work coming out of BirGorka, so that gives them an edge if HI decides to take on this project. I suspect HI could beat the prices of US custom makers too.



[This message has been edited by Howard Wallace (edited 04-18-2001).]
 
Dear Howard,

When I was a mere strippling, there used to be a company called, I think, the Ohio Axe and Hatchett Co. They marketed a very nice double bitted belt hatchet for about $15.00. Of course, this was in the early '80s, so this was still a fer piece of change. Once in a while I see these at gun and knife shows for about $75 - $100, depending on condition. Wish someone would come out with a $35 - $50 version.
Rene
 
Howard, I think it a very good HI project.
My mods to the design in Hoodoo's pix would
be:

Use the fullering skills of the kamis to
lighten the bits.

Steepen the curve between bit and handle so
the blade can be grasped easily, instead of
holding the handle, for delicate shaving work.
Almost a tomahawk-like angle between bit edge
and handle.

Two transverse holes formed/drilled into the
head for metal (brass?) pins to secure the
head to the handle. That should increase the
security of the head-handle connection as well
as making an emergency handle replacement
procedure a little easier to do in the boonies.


Alan (one who complicates everything)
 
I will give it a whirl. I am working two jobs now to get out from under an old credit card bill (the better to support my HIKV too). So it might be a while, so anybody else wanting to try should. maybe if we have more than one model, we can let the rest of the forum decide which one to use. I am also working on a model for an Arkansas Toothpick I have in mind.
 
I have always been taken with the Nessmuk pattern pocket axe and would like to see it remain in its original design. The reason for the lack of pins is that its much easier to carve a handle to fit it than it is to do the same AND drill a hole in the handle as well in the bush. granted, you COULD make the hole big enough so a SAK Rucksack Awl would fit in there but hey, who knows!
The Ridge Runner
 
Could you add the Nessmuk Sig onto the handle? or even just a stamp?


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****** The Ridge Runner ******
A man is not a warrior by steel alone, ethics, courage intelligence, compassion and honor are the true tests of a warrior's prowess. Once these are achieved, the spirit will guide the sword.
'Kahless

Check out my web site and Forums at: http://ridgerunnersurvival.tripod.com
 
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