Idea I wanted to run by y'all

Charlie Mike

Charlie Mike

Sober since 1-7-14 (still a Paranoid Nutjob)
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Nov 1, 2000
Messages
28,365
At some point, I'd like to have an "enhanced 110" custom made by RW. Same overall style/pattern but beefier.

4.25" blade of 3/16" S30V
Hollow ground, 1000 grit satin
Ti framelock .160" with full Ti spacer
3/16" - 1/4" pivot and stop pin
Jimping in all the spots they'd be found on an Emerson
Very subtle flipper and traditonal nail nick
Drilled for 4 position carry with a lock stop
Possibly burl inlay on non locking slab in traditional 110 look

Does this sound cool? I'm open to suggestions and input.
 
It would be Ti bolsters anodized to a golden hue with burl inlay. I want to have these at .090 on both sides of the handle. I guess this would cancel the need for a lock stop. This is sounding better and better.

Edit: Now that I think about it... The non lock slab is going to have to be .090 and the bolsters and burl will be .070 because the more I'm thinking, I want the lock side slab to be bare. This will keep the thickness down, yet still give me the strength of a framelock. A small lock stop of .070 radius-ed Ti. Bolsters, liner, and lockside will all be bead blast with no anodizing.
 
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Nother thing I just thought of... How bout cut outs to make the backspacer appear to be a lockback?
 
Charlie Mike said:
.....I want the lock side slab to be bare. This will keep the thickness down.
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That's just stupid, imo.

If you want to do an homage to the 110, giving it steroids, at least make it look right.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Kohai999 said:
That's just stupid, imo.

If you want to do an homage to the 110, giving it steroids, at least make it look right.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
Click to expand...

So you suppose just a thick liner lock and bolsters/burl on both sides?
 
Charlie Mike said:
So you suppose just a thick liner lock and bolsters/burl on both sides?
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No, man.....I expect you to think outside the box!;)

Korth and Gus C. have both done work to the framelocks where the scale material is either split, and attached to both sides, or is very thin and is connected to the non-actuated portion of the framelock....either way will work.

Just don't turn a righteous idea into a bastard Frankenstien piece. For that matter, I would go high polish on the "bolsters"....you ever see a beadblast brass 110? I haven't.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
I was also considering that, but thanks for your input. That would be my ideal. What do you think of the slight flipper idea?
 
I agree with Steven on this one CM.If you want a customised ,110 do it justice.No flippers & PLEASE DON'T WAVE IT!:eek::D
 
Wave? God no!!! I could do without the flipper. Perhaps a thumb disk instead, in addition to the nail nick?
 
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I think a thumb disc would look pretty good on a 110,buy why even have a nail nic???For show?
 
JTR357 said:
I think a thumb disc would look pretty good on a 110,buy why even have a nail nic???For show?
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Exactly. Steve is right, this is a roided out homage to the 110. Besides, the idea of belt carry in a custom leather pancake sounds kinda cool.
 
type00rev said:
Sounds like a very cool knife, CM.....I hope it becomes reality.
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Me too. I'm willing to spend $600 on this venture. RW has quite a backlog these days, but I figure mailing him a 100 for 6 months should be cool. Also, if RW decides to pick this up, mine will be marked RW PROTO :D
 
Sounds like you know what you want.Hope it works out for you man.
 
JTR357 said:
Sounds like you know what you want.Hope it works out for you man.
Click to expand...

Thanks John. This is rapidly becoming a grail knife. I'm calling Reese tomorrow. Send him a little Christmas money :D
 
Update...

Just got off the phone with the man. Looks like I'm scrapping the framelock idea for .1" Ti liners. Ti bolsters, hidden pivot. No pocket clip holes. I think this will preserve the 110 look like STeven was suggesting. Reese says this is no problem.
 
Just sent RW some scratch along with my wife's grandpa's 110 so he has a reference.

We're down to:
3/16" hollow ground s30v blade at 4.25" blade length.
.100" Ti liners.
Full Ti spacer that terminates an inch behind the stop pin.
Rear bolsters/liners cut away to give the appearance of a lockback.
Ti bolsters orange peal finish with burl scales.
Nail nick and thumb disk.
3/16" pivot and stop pin.
 
Can y'all imagine? A BIG Mo'FRACKIN 110!?


wife's Buck...
l_ab296c303bfe480c85abb3926f5e8548.jpg
 
Charlie Mike said:
Full Ti spacer that terminates an inch behind the stop pin.
Rear bolsters/liners cut away to give the appearance of a lockback.
Ti bolsters orange peal finish with burl scales.
Nail nick and thumb disk.
3/16" pivot and stop pin.
Click to expand...

Why even do a stop pin? Just make the spacer the stop.

You should find one of the old "one armed bandits" and have Reese interpret that.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
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