Ideal steel for long knives & machetes

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Jan 10, 2006
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Im planning to make some long knives that is ideal for camping and outdoor use. What kind of steel do you suppose would be best for the job. I was thinking of some kind of steel that would flex....spring steel I guess :confused:
 
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I have really liked the 1075 I have used (from admiral steel) + it is relatively inexpensive. The Phillipinos I work with tell me that a lot of the knives made in your country are forged out of leaf-springs? Maybe they're just having a joke at my expense - it wouldn't be the first time.
 
A better question is what you are setup to do - do you forge or stock remove? Do you have a regulated heat-treat oven, or just a forge/torch? Steel selection will change depending on what tooling you have available.
 
The Phillipinos I work with tell me that a lot of the knives made in your country are forged out of leaf-springs?
Yup, majority of the blades that are done here are made from leaf springs of junked trucks.

A better question is what you are setup to do - do you forge or stock remove? Do you have a regulated heat-treat oven, or just a forge/torch? Steel selection will change depending on what tooling you have available.

I do stock removal and the blades of my knives are treated in a regulated heat oven. As of now I bring my blades to a local heat treat service company.
 
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Most knife steels will make a good large knife. The things to consider are the processes that will be undertaken to make the knife. For a large blade, ease of grinding and/or forgability are important. HT is the key in many steel decisions. If you don't have ovens and special quenchants, 5160 is your friend. It is nearly impossible to mess up the HT with 5160. With a little more HT effort, 1075-1085 makes a good camp knife. In stainless, ATS-34/154CM or its particle metal match CPM-154 would be good. The stainless would need to be sent out or processed in a controlled oven.
 
Any steel will flex, it doesn't even have to be a steel that will work for knives to flex. Anything from 52100 down to 1018 will flex, however the hardness level will determine what it will do when it stops flexing. Will it bend or will it break? Untreated 1018 will flex within a certain range until one is tired of flexing it, but if you exceed its narrow flexing range just once it will bend. A fully hardened high carbon steel will flex equally as well over a wider range until you tire of flexing it, but if you exceeds its much wider range just once it will break.

The above paragraph is to illustrate that despite what has been touted, literally for ages, flexibility is actually irrelevant to a large blades function. What is really the key is impact toughness. Here a steel with more than .8% carbon really doesn't offer any advantages in toughness while 1018 would be very tough, but would lack the strength required to keep its shape and do the job. For a machete you would find a nice balancing point from .5% carbon to .8% carbon and any alloying that helps with toughness would be a plus. Alloying such as silicon and nickel will allow you to bump up your hardness to increase strength while still allowing you to maintain toughness; essentially allowing you to have your cake and eat it too.

Kudos and applause to NDallyn,:thumbup: for pointing out the often overlooked factor that is easily as important as the application- what steels are you set up best to work with.
 
I have had good experiences both with 1095 and A2. I bet spring steel (like 5160) would be just as fine. I'd privilege one that is easy to heat treat.
 
there are probably better steels but I can vouch for 5160 and 8670m, though I am replacing those in my shop with S7
 
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