ideas for hand rubbing set-ups

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Jan 10, 2010
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I'm tired of using my board in a vise for hand rubbing blades. Can somebody show me what they use?

I've seen the nice pipe style vises... how are they for holding the tang while sanding???
 
Here's what I use. It has worked out great for me:

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It's just some thick weld stock I cut to shape and then drilled and tapped holes for the blade support. The set screws push up into the leather to support the blade through the distal taper giving a completely rigid setup for sanding (no springing of the blade). I just clamp the knife and support to my work table, and I'm set. I use a piece of angle iron with a true flat ground in for a backing stick for the sand paper. It gives me plently of handle and control. I also have another angle iron with leather wrapped around it for a softer cut.

To protect the blade while sanding the other side, make sure you tape up the side that is done so that oil and grit doesn't get between it and the leather support and scratch it up. I'll also just run a piece of tape over the leather sometimes if I'm not doing finishing work to minimize scratching.

I also position the blade so that the support is underneath the entire length of the blade so you don't stab yourself on the exposed tip while moving about.

I use incandescent and flourescent work lights to monitor my progress in scratch removal.

--nathan
 
Here's mine.

It's a piece of mild steel with a rubber face and a nylon bolt threaded through the end. The nylon doesn't scratch the blade, but does well to support the tip.

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That looks good as well, Vaughn. I have a knife finishing vise I can mount my jig in now as well. I ended up using multiple set screws (more than I needed as it turns out) so I have some flexibility when sanding longer blades like bowies. That way I can have two screws spreading out the loading on the blade to prevent flex.

I like the idea of the nylon screws as well.

--nathan

--nathan
 
Here's mine.

It's a piece of mild steel with a rubber face and a nylon bolt threaded through the end. The nylon doesn't scratch the blade, but does well to support the tip.

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How are you beveling that tip? I can't figure out a safe and easy way to do it without risking screwing up my main bevel line.
 
E, that blade has a slight amount of distal taper, but the key to keeping the grind line (as I've found it) is to rotate the file so that it stays 90 degrees perpendicular to the edge of the blade. Does that make sense?

I see pics of people simply grinding straight along the blade and then cutting in the drop point, but that doesn't seem to work right for me. Of course, I'm just learning this craft....

Nathan, thanks for the kind words. To be honest, though, I actually modeled mine after yours. You posted those same pics in another thread, and I liked the idea, but had to work with the materials I had on hand. The nylon bolt was a left-over from another project so I used it as a pass-through tip rest because the rubber belting wouldn't flex like your thin leather does.
 
i love it... so simple. I just went ahead and bought a knife vise from Pop's and now I will make a jig with a set screw. perfect... thanks!
 
Togi dai
 

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Stacy,
That "Togi Dai" set up looks like a terrific idea...a guy might
even enjoy spending more time finishing...
 
This is my sanding setup. I picked up the school type chair at a used office products store for $20 or so.

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It is a converted sit-up bench. I rescued it from the trash in brand new shape ( seems like someone didn't like to do upside down sit-ups). I removed the leg lift piece and took off the hand grips. I made several filing boards and polishing jigs with 2X2" shafts to drop in the upright where the hand grips were. The unit folds up and could sit behind a door.

I also have converted my tsuka-maki jig to fit the post. This makes handle wrapping easier. I still have to add a 2X2" post to a filing vise to make long file work sessions easier.

When you get older, you look for more ways to sit comfortably when doing things that you like to do. This setup can sit in the kitchen ( as in the photo) or on the deck, as well as in the shop. It can go to a hammer-in or knife show,too.

The school desk setup Christopher did is nothing but a different shape of the same idea. He can clamp/bolt any knife related fixture to it, while sitting comfortably with his favorite beverage at his side ( as soon as he adds the cup holder attachment).
 
VERY SLICK Stacy!!! :thumbup: :cool:

I'd been planning something similar. I really like how you put yours together! :)
 
Stacy, if you can find a way to turn treadmills into knifemaking machines you'll make a fortune. :)

I see SOOOO many treadmills being thrown out virtually unusued during the summer garage sale season. What are people thinking when they buy that exercise equipment anyway? Especially the treadmills. Walking is free! Treadmills are useless.

Please, Stacy... make a knife grinding machine powered by a treadmill. It's good green technology. :)
 
Oh come on tryppyr, you live in western WA... You should understand treadmills around here!!! ;)

From being a personal trainer for 4.5 years when I was younger, I realized that things like treadmills and work-out stations are better served as things like grinder motors and sanding stations....and clothes racks! ;) :D
 
Stacy, if you can find a way to turn treadmills into knifemaking machines you'll make a fortune. :)

I see SOOOO many treadmills being thrown out virtually unusued during the summer garage sale season. What are people thinking when they buy that exercise equipment anyway? Especially the treadmills. Walking is free! Treadmills are useless.

Please, Stacy... make a knife grinding machine powered by a treadmill. It's good green technology. :)

I'm pretty sure there has to be a way to turn one into a grinder. At least with the motor. Most all of them have some kind of variable speed control which allows you to adjust the speed at which you walk/run. Someone who is more mechanically inclined than me can likely make some kind of use of the motors on there can't they?
 
The motors are open cased, so you have to use them where the metal dust is not a problem. Strip the controller with the motor and you have a fairly usable unit. Ignore the HP rating, as it is not realistic. Look at the current draw to guess the actual HP.They do make good disc grinders,band saw motors ( variable speed metal saw, anyone), and lathe motors.
 
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