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Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
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identification of knives
- Thread starter rglen
- Start date
thanks will do
Very sorry to hear that. My condolences. I've had to do that kind of thing too.
Photos you put up on BF are only visible to logged in members, not the general public.
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The Parker Cut Co has a stainless steel blade. A little WD40 on a cloth or paper towel will work.
As for the Case, it has what is known as "carbon steel" blades (and back springs), they are not stainless and will be more prone to rust/corrosion/pitting. To clean that knife spray it with WD40 and lightly scrub the blades with some 0000 steel wool. That will remove the rust, but it won't produce flawless, shiny blades. I would also suggest spraying the entire knife and letting it soak in for awhile. I'm guessing there is rust throughout the knife. This knife will require more care over time than the Parker due to the steel parts being susceptible to rust if they get wet, or even if there is high humidity.
You don't need to worry about affecting the value of the two pocket knives by cleaning them, they are not valuable as far as money goes.
As for the straight razor, I'd just wipe the blade with WD40 to prevent further corrosion/rust. I don't know the history or value of that item, so I wouldn't want to recommend any other actions.
As for the Case, it has what is known as "carbon steel" blades (and back springs), they are not stainless and will be more prone to rust/corrosion/pitting. To clean that knife spray it with WD40 and lightly scrub the blades with some 0000 steel wool. That will remove the rust, but it won't produce flawless, shiny blades. I would also suggest spraying the entire knife and letting it soak in for awhile. I'm guessing there is rust throughout the knife. This knife will require more care over time than the Parker due to the steel parts being susceptible to rust if they get wet, or even if there is high humidity.
You don't need to worry about affecting the value of the two pocket knives by cleaning them, they are not valuable as far as money goes.
As for the straight razor, I'd just wipe the blade with WD40 to prevent further corrosion/rust. I don't know the history or value of that item, so I wouldn't want to recommend any other actions.
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Thank you
On the case that has a broken tip, would I be able to draw a curved line and take the end off to make it like a sharp end
As for the broken tip on the Case, you can "reprofile" it, either by grinding down from the top of the blade, or by grinding up from the edge. This can be done using a sharpening stone/hone, the more coarse the stone is the faster the task will go. But you need to be careful which option you choose. If when the blade is closed (in the handle) the top of the broken portion of the tip is below the liners (the metal sheets in between the plastic handles), then you can use either method. But if the top of the broken tip is above the liners, then you should only grind from the top down, because if you were to grind from the bottom (edge) up the tip of the blade would be sticking up above the liners when closed.
As for the two fixed-blades, if the blade of the first one (Herter's) is around 5-1/4" long, I'd say it's a Herter's Improved Bowie. It has a carbon steel blade. I would simply wipe the blade with WD40, and maybe some light scrubbing with 0000 steel wool. Here is a link to a pdf of an older Herter's catalog from 1979 showing one version of the knife (page 2, upper right hand corner). https://rmurphyknives.com/store/media/Herters-1979-Catalog-Page_83.pdf
I believe they produced that model for several years. It also looks like an original Herter's sheath, though it appears to be a sheath for their Bull Cook model. But it's always possible that they simply provided whatever sheath they had on hand that would work.
The Puma appears to be a "Hunters Pal". I would wipe the blade with WD40, but that knife needs a bit more research to determine it's age and possible value. If you intended on keeping it as a "user" and never parting with it then I would recommend WD40 and light scrubbing with 0000 steel wool to deal with the rust. But if you're concerned about any collectors value then determining the age of the knife might be a good idea. I believe those knives have a date code stamped in the brass cross guard (the metal piece between the blade and handle) which can be checked online. Does your knife have a number stamped on the guard?
As for the two fixed-blades, if the blade of the first one (Herter's) is around 5-1/4" long, I'd say it's a Herter's Improved Bowie. It has a carbon steel blade. I would simply wipe the blade with WD40, and maybe some light scrubbing with 0000 steel wool. Here is a link to a pdf of an older Herter's catalog from 1979 showing one version of the knife (page 2, upper right hand corner). https://rmurphyknives.com/store/media/Herters-1979-Catalog-Page_83.pdf
I believe they produced that model for several years. It also looks like an original Herter's sheath, though it appears to be a sheath for their Bull Cook model. But it's always possible that they simply provided whatever sheath they had on hand that would work.
The Puma appears to be a "Hunters Pal". I would wipe the blade with WD40, but that knife needs a bit more research to determine it's age and possible value. If you intended on keeping it as a "user" and never parting with it then I would recommend WD40 and light scrubbing with 0000 steel wool to deal with the rust. But if you're concerned about any collectors value then determining the age of the knife might be a good idea. I believe those knives have a date code stamped in the brass cross guard (the metal piece between the blade and handle) which can be checked online. Does your knife have a number stamped on the guard?
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I can read 2607. i think there is a number in front of the 2 maybe a 4
Thank you for all the info.
You're welcome.
If the number on the Puma is in fact 42607, and I would assume it is because according to the Puma date code chart the only code number that has 2607 in it starts with a 4, according to the Puma website, the knife was made in the second quarter of 1967.
Here is one more knife
This one is a a Herter's Improved Bowie, made by R Murphy for George Herter Inc of Minnesota. I don't remember the years, but they were late 1950's - early 1980's. They had a resurgence in popularity back around 20 years ago. You'll find a lot of info on them.
what would be good to put on the handle? Thank you!
The handle looks like stag (deer antler). A commonly used method for treating and restoring stag is to use mineral oil. Stag can dry out over time, and as it dries it can shrink and crack. Mineral oil will soak into the stag and can rejuvenate it a bit, as well as prevent further drying. Some people will let stag handles soak in mineral oil for 24 hours to let it really soak in. Mineral oil will not have any negative effects on any other parts of the knife.
Triton
Gold Member
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If I could suggest using gun oil for the long term rather than wd-40. Wd-40 (water displacement formula 40) is great for what it was designed for, i.e. cleaning something as was suggested because it drives out moisture, but it is lacking as a anti corrosion barrier.
WD-40 was originally developed in the 1950s to prevent rust and corrosion on the outer skin of Atlas missiles, so it obviously has some use as an anti-corrosion barrier.....