Identification question

Joined
Jan 31, 2011
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I am sorry if these have been covered in the past but I am confused on two things:

1. How can you tell the difference between a custom and a production XM folder?

2. How can you tell the difference between Titanium and regular accessories such as the standoffs, clips etc.?

I just received my Ti standoffs (not anodized) for my XM-18 3" and they look the same as the standareds being replaced (to me anyway) when I took the standard standoffs out. If I get them mixed up somehow, I don't think I'll be able to tell the difference.

Thanks!
 
Ti and regular SS stand-offs are indeed very very similar, many replace just to know "all" is now Ti.
As for "Customs" technically - Hand sharpened by Rick, Hollow Ground (vs FF Full-Flat) usually a semi-shiney finish.
There are exceptions but the afore mentioned is a good guide.
Beware those claiming "Custom" on a fancied up production model, they may be making the claim out of ignorance OR intentionally.
 
김원진;10990725 said:
when concerning ti, a magnet will always tell the truth :p

Not really, Ti and SS are both gonna go, "What magnet?" :p

Guess it depends though, I think like 440 SS will attract a magnet, BUT appearance wise in the stand-offs which is the issue - not much Diff.
 
?? when checking to see if some parts were ti or stainless steel, i sometimes place a magnet over them to see if it grabs or not. You have ti that goes for a magnet?

edit: just went over my xm and sebenzas, and everything pulled or pushed except the ti and g-10
Not really, Ti and SS are both gonna go, "What magnet?" :p

Guess it depends though, I think like 440 SS will attract a magnet, BUT appearance wise in the stand-offs which is the issue - not much Diff.
 
Feel free to try this at home. Decided to experiment a little.

Ohh, ahhh, pics! :D

Magnet easily sticks to blade...
photo-101.jpg


And that's it, could not get it to cling to anything else.

The stainless standoffs I pulled out of my EDC 3.5. No magnet stick...
photo-102.jpg


The Ti spacer out of my 24...no sticking, just a photo prop to prop the the liner for the pic.
photo-103.jpg


The EDC 3.5 sporting Ti standoffs and lanyard, magnet stuck to nothing but the blade.
photo-104.jpg


Not that it helps, but I set the stainless standoffs that came out of my 24 next to the Ti standoffs installed. No magnet stick to any of it, and are difficult to see a big difference in the materials.
photo-105.jpg
 
funny enough, my magnet was pushing some of the stand offs and screws. But definitely the stainless materials were reacting. Maybe a stronger magnet?
 
Thanks for the pics N2K.

Measuring the weight of the standoff pieces would be a way to differentiate the Ti from SS I guess, since Ti is lighter than SS. But then, you would have to know the base weight of a SS or Ti standoff in different sizes.
Anyone know the weight ? :D

Wish there was a easier way. :grumpy:
 
Depends on Chromium content. More Chromium = more rust/stain resistance LESS receptivity to magnetism. Blades (Good steel) like Rick uses, doesn't surprise me they are pretty conductive.
Really didn't want to completely hi-jack the Op's thread into a study of magnetism but, I guess his questions were answered:)
 
As for "Customs" technically - Hand sharpened by Rick, Hollow Ground (vs FF Full-Flat) usually a semi-shiney finish.
There are exceptions but the afore mentioned is a good guide.

I would change that "hand sharpened" to "hand ground" as all the knives, both production and custom, that Hinderer produces are hand sharpened.

Basically, the custom knives are hand ground and typically exhibit a hollow grind (as he uses an 8" wheel typically but also has used a 10" wheel and will flat grind portions of the knife as well). Almost everything else is up for grabs. So far, only the spanto (XM-18s and XM-24) and slicer (XM-18s) have been manufactured into production versions and are flat ground.
 
You do not need to know the weight.
You habe all to try out. One by one seperately weighn. The lighter ones are ti.

Peter
 
Sharpen, Grind, Form, Fabricate .......the Point is - "Customs" are done by Ricks Hand OR they are NOT "Customs".
 
Sharpen, Grind, Form, Fabricate .......the Point is - "Customs" are done by Ricks Hand OR they are NOT "Customs".

Right on. I understood exactly what you were saying as did many others here.

For me it can get somewhat confusing sometimes, but the hollow-ground-hand-sharpened and sometimes satin finished stuff does often point to a custom.
Often, the most wicked looking grinds / blade shapes are customs, but I'll not say every one, because I could be proven wrong with such a bold statement.
I'm about to the point that I don't really want to say all are "enter words here". A lot of variety keeps popping up, it seems like most every day I see a variant or configuration a bit new to me. All the new customs from Blade take a minute to soak in. Not to mention all of Rick's early work. Head be spinnin'!


Back on topic,
The magnet I used is not weak, but I only used the one. That's why I suggested others try it too. I have more magnets around, maybe I'll try and hunt one down. I did not feel any measure of magnetic pull or push anywhere on my knives and parts except the blade.
If I discover a way (other than those already discussed) to help quickly determine if standoffs are SS or Ti, I'll post it.
 
Thanks guys! I appreciate the feedback.

Welcome.

In addition to the two principle appearance factors (Hollow ground-vs-FFG and sheen -vs- Bead Blast, StoneWashed)in "How to tell" being as "most" people can't look at a knife and tell who sharpened it OR ground it.
It is a safer bet to;
- Obtain a Custom at a Knife show through Lottery
- Obtain from one of Hinderer's approved Dealers ( http://www.rickhindererknives.com/rick-hinderer-dealer-list/ )
- And as always, IF it seems to good to be true - it probably is so, avoid those sites where the word "Custom" is bantied about and misapplied.
Enjoy!:)
 
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