Idler bearings and step pulleys

Keith_H

Keith_H

Joined
Jul 20, 2007
Messages
3,121
Hi, I just got a Leeson 2 horsepower, single phase, 7/8", TEFC, 1725 rpm motor today :D and I am now looking into step pulleys and the bearings for my wheel.

What size and type of bearings should I buy for the idler wheel on my grinder?

Is 4-3-2" a good size, or should I have the option of going slower?

Thanks again!
 
For that kind of work I would recommend some roller bearings. They should hold up longer than ball bearings. You'll have to get wheel size recommendations from others.
 
A 4-3-2 pulley setup should work fine with that motor.As far as bearings go, size should be determined by shaft size and wheel diameter.Also a good quality ball bearing is fine for that application.That's what we use on our machinery everyday and seldom have a failure.Dave:)
 
Forgot to add, I hope you checked your available power with a single phase 2 hp motor.On 110v you need about 20 amps and about 10 amps on 220v.I ran a seperate 25amp line for mine.Dave
 
DC KNIVES said:
A 4-3-2 pulley setup should work fine with that motor.As far as bearings go, size should be determined by shaft size and wheel diameter.Also a good quality ball bearing is fine for that application.That's what we use on our machinery everyday and seldom have a failure.Dave:)
Click to expand...

Thanks. I hate to go into a bearing place and ask for a "a bearing, but I don't know what it is..."

I asked for one with a 1/2" shaft and a 2" outside, but they told me that that was uncommon, I think it might be 1 1/2" outside.
I remember a discussion about the type of seal or grease in the bearings used in the kmg, but I can't find it.

DC KNIVES said:
Forgot to add, I hope you checked your available power with a single phase 2 hp motor.On 110v you need about 20 amps and about 10 amps on 220v.I ran a seperate 25amp line for mine.Dave
Click to expand...

I am lucky that my father is an electrician, and he will be running a line of 230 to the basement :)
 
The KMG bearings are 1.125 on the od and they also have a spacer on the inside to hold the centers out. I used 1/2" pipe and cut and sguared the ends. The bearings should have a slight press fit. I have made 4 wheels and fit bearing in 2 contact wheels that were originally shaft mounted.
 
Okay, I will get that size.

So does the 1 1/8" bore go all the way through with a spacer in between or is each side bored the thickness of the bearing?
 
Kieth you only bore the 1.125 holes to the width of the bearing, this will keep the outer part of the bearing in place. The spacer is to keep the center hubs of the bearing from being pulled together by your mounting bolt. If you have no spacer and tighten the bolt or side load the wheel, it will cause the center hubs to come together a bit and make their groove and the outer groove to become misaligned a bit and the balls will bind a bit. Bearing life would take a dive. Rob from KMG posted this when I was modifying a Grizzly wheel hub to accept bearings.
 
Jim, I don't think I fully understand. Wheel turns around the 1/2" pipe, and the hole going through the wheel is larger than the OD of the spacer?


Thanks for the link. According to my calculations, this will be the feet per minute on a 4" wheel using 4-3-2" sheaves.

903.2
1806.4
3612.8

Is that about as slow as I want to go? I also plan to sharpen on this using leather belts.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top