If a man can only have one dedicated serrated blade

I personally prefer a plain edge but, I can see a need for a serrated blade.

I have modified two multi-tools so that they have fully serrated blades. No plain edge, no combo edge. That way I have a serrated knife if I need it and I still get to carry a plain edge as my EDC.
 
DocJD said:
Either is great for SD , but the Cold Steel tip is much sturdier for utility .

Spyderco won't warrant such use of the Civilian , IIRC
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Definitely won’t argue that those blades won’t cause grievous damage to tissue and organs. For SD though, I tend to favor more conventional blades for the “straight thrust.” It looks just a tad more awkward to poke with the Black Talon.

Back on topic, the blade shape looks like it complements the serrations well. That thing’s really gonna bite into rope.
 
The guys over at the spyderco forums swear by serrated edges over PE and the knife with the best serrations seems to be the spyderco Carribean

I own one serrated blade and it works great but I still prefer plain edge for edc.
 
I've carried a Serrated Spyderco DLC coated Police for over 30 years in construction. I've cut wire, rope, pvc, pipe and about anything else I thought it might cut at the time at work that needed cutting. It's the only serrated knife I own and its been a good one.
 
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Folder: Caribbean Sheepfoot SE (LC200N), because the edge is pretty long and the handle is comfortable.

Fixed: my bread knife.

I still carry and use the Tasman Salt 2 and the Native Salt SE more, but the Caribbean is the most capable.
 
DangerZone98 said:
Be it fixed or folding, anything goes. I’d only care for one serrated knife that can be carried around. What would you recommend? I’m a plain-edged dude curious about the other side of the fence.
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"If a man can only have one dedicated serrated blade"

What about a woman? :)

I like my fully serrated knives to be in H1 and from Spyderco. Pick something from the Salt line that you think you would like.
 
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The Veff Serrations on CRKT knives are super! They cut rope, hose, cardboard and those damn plastic clamshell packages like butter! Too bad the steel is crap. I can only imagine how good they'd be on a solid steelIMG_20200707_203446.jpg
 
I thought spyderco serrations are too agressive (get stuck) but I seem to be minority. I feel that sharp plain edge cuts better whatever the serration is, though.
 
Spyderco are the kings of serrations IMO. Pointy serrations are the way to go, they're more effective once you've learned the proper technique to cut with them. Serrations stay sharper longer. They require more effort and skill to sharpen, but it's worth to learn.

The new, green Spyderco Atlantic Salt 2 and Pacific Salt 2 in LCN2000 look fantastic IMO. Choose the sheep's foot of the Atlantic, if you want a point that won't accidentally poke holes in things, or the Pacific if you want a more versatile blade. Then there is also the Spyderco Jumpmaster, if you want a more substantial fixed blade.
 
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I find just about all forms of serrations to be aggravating when it comes to maintenance. However, I do see the utility in them. I think I may like Spyderco's the best if I am going to have to get in there and maintain them. The wide scallops are just about perfect for a ceramic rod to nest in and sharpen. I would say for hard use and pretty much ignoring the neurotic nature of edge perfection, I think it may be a toss up between the kind of serrations found on the Gerber MK II and whe Ka-Bar does on their combo edges. Both seem to continue to tear and work even with no more care given to them short of just sharpening the edge as if it were flat and maybe a good stropping on a material with a lot of give to get in their and "brush their teeth".

One knife that I have zero experience with in terms of long term care and durability since I just bought it is the kind of serrations Microtech puts on their automatics. I just bought a new Ultratech with a Bayonet blade mostly because it looked cool, and I liked the fact that I could keep one plain edge super sharp, the bayonet edge more like a utility edge, and have a serrated edge below the primary edge to not only take care of cutting cords and ties at work but would also make this knife a really effective self defense tool if needed....but mostly because it looked cool;)

Anyway, I have just noticed after studying the edge that the serrated edge and the primary edge both have the same grind on them. That is to say, it's not like the primary edge has been sharpened at 20 degrees and the serrated portion was just cut in like a chisel. In theory, I could stone/strop that side the same and keep them even while maintaining the other side in the traditional manner of a combo edge where I hone the plain part and just keep the teeth sharp with finishing strop that I used on all of my edges. Honestly, MT has kinda ground the blade from the factory as to how all of my serrated/combo edges look after some use as I much prefer to just let stropping keep them toothy enough and focus my "perfection" on the plain parts. Time will see how that works with this knife. I've not had to do a ton of work on 204P steel before and certainly none with serrations.
 
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