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If I can find some Hickory fire wood?
- Thread starter hammon172
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2012
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- 38
I am by no means an expert on this subject, but usually hardwoods are left to season in a dry place for a while before use. Aka, drying it out. I've done this with hickory before, but since it was in logs it cracked a bunch. I'd recommend cutting it into planks first via my experience.
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2010
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- 1,320
Personally I would just go find some kiln dried hickory lumber and use that. But if you're bound and determined to use firewood, I would cut it into blocks that are a lot larger than what you intend to use. I would then use a product called Anchor Seal to seal the wood. This will help keep it from checking (splitting). I would then let it cure until the moisture content is well below 10% (preferably around 6 or below), which may be a year or more depending on where it's stored and how well seasoned it is when you get it.
By the way, just because the firewood is 'seasoned', doesn't mean the moisture content is low enough to make a good knife handle. I've seen firewood sold that had only been cut for a few months. Not everyone's definition of 'seasoned firewood' is the same!
By the way, just because the firewood is 'seasoned', doesn't mean the moisture content is low enough to make a good knife handle. I've seen firewood sold that had only been cut for a few months. Not everyone's definition of 'seasoned firewood' is the same!
A.McPherson
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2012
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- 2,931
on the subject of seasoning wood, I only have second hand knowlege, gleaned from "the traditional bowyer's bible", some guys who are really interestd in seasoning wood correctly.
if you are the person cutting the tree down, immediately seal the cut ends of the log with glue, as that is where the checks and splits happen the quickest. then put it up some place and let it sit for a 6 months to a year. check the moisture content until it quits loosing moisture (you can also do this by weight if you don't have a meter). at that point you have "seasoned" wood. Of course with all natural woods, you will have to seal it with some sort of non permiable substance to stop it from swelling and shrinking with the relative humidity. This is very important if you plan on selling or giving your work to someone who lives in a higher or lower RH area...
you can also speed the process up by sticking it someplace hot, like your attic or if you are feeling particularly adventurous, in your car in august, in texas...
it may warp a bit though...
if you are the person cutting the tree down, immediately seal the cut ends of the log with glue, as that is where the checks and splits happen the quickest. then put it up some place and let it sit for a 6 months to a year. check the moisture content until it quits loosing moisture (you can also do this by weight if you don't have a meter). at that point you have "seasoned" wood. Of course with all natural woods, you will have to seal it with some sort of non permiable substance to stop it from swelling and shrinking with the relative humidity. This is very important if you plan on selling or giving your work to someone who lives in a higher or lower RH area...
you can also speed the process up by sticking it someplace hot, like your attic or if you are feeling particularly adventurous, in your car in august, in texas...
it may warp a bit though...
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2001
- Messages
- 3,824
I have a bunch of hickory I cut 5 or 6 years ago for hammer and hawk handles. I cut them a bit over size and longer than needed. There stored in the attic of my shop and it gets pretty warm and dry up there. When ever I get ready for one it's bone dry and ready to use.
One thing about curing a large piece of wood, unless it's properly kiln dried it will have more moister the deeper you go into the wood. I've heard tale of ebony that was in a large board and probably over 20 years old that was cut into scales, the ones from the outside of the board didn't shrink, the ones from the inside shrank badly. What ever your making needs to be just a bit oversize to allow for shrinking and maybe a little checking, but not too large.
One thing about curing a large piece of wood, unless it's properly kiln dried it will have more moister the deeper you go into the wood. I've heard tale of ebony that was in a large board and probably over 20 years old that was cut into scales, the ones from the outside of the board didn't shrink, the ones from the inside shrank badly. What ever your making needs to be just a bit oversize to allow for shrinking and maybe a little checking, but not too large.