If Magnacut is better than s110v (2010 version), just how MUCH better is it?

[LostCause]

I also want to add that I use s110v for paper and steel parting at the micro-maching shop. If magnacut can part steel better and can do more cardboard and paper shreds without needing any work done on it, then s110 is beaten. I just need to see it in one of my go-to knives or something interesting for me to bight.

Maxamet has entered the chat.

Should have more edge retention than all of them and still be a lot tougher than S110V.

Just - it's not stainless, so it requires some care.

 

[Vlade]

I don't know nothing about magna cut. But I'm itching to try it. I've been looking at Kershaw automatics that come in magna cut. Maybe I'm not looking correctly but I'm not seeing ZT in magna cut?: What gives?

 

[tony281sc2]

I don't know nothing about magna cut. But I'm itching to try it. I've been looking at Kershaw automatics that come in magna cut. Maybe I'm not looking correctly but I'm not seeing ZT in magna cut?: What gives?

You’re looking correctly. They’re just late to the game I guess.
I think they should offer at least some SPRINTS in the new steel. IMO the 0308 would be perfect for it, since it’s a big heavy duty knife… or make one in full ti for like $450, it would give some RHKs a run for their money.
The only KAI knife I know of to use Magnacut is the Launch 15
ZT has been so late to the game with everything the past couple years, they must have something big coming

 

[Thorgrim]

Maxamet has entered the chat.

Should have more edge retention than all of them and still be a lot tougher than S110V.

Just - it's not stainless, so it requires some care.

DingDingDing!

Since most of what I do with a knife is opening boxes, mostly from Amazon (be honest, most of you are with me on that),. I think Maxamet would be an ideal steel for me ... if I can resharpen it easily. I've used a diamond "encrusted" plate from ragnarsforge.com for many years, but with the hand/forearms tremors I just can't keep a consistent edge with it - and to be frank, it's a tiny sharpener even for small slip-joints and it's ver\y easy to cut something you deem important. My previous sharpeners of choice were composite stones that Carboloy handed out freely when they stopped to see how their bits were doing (they were for a coal mining "cutting machine", and the easiest way to describe it is to imagine a chainsaw with a 9 foot bar and replaceable tungsten bits, cutting horizontally). Naturally, to keep the mine workers satisfied enough to recommend their new bits (instead of teeth on a chain saw, they were replaceable) over re-sharpened bits) by resharpened bits which were as good or even better if resharpend by someone who was skilled. A little bit of politicking, some hand shaking and tossing a copious amount of nice whetstones around like they were free beer (You have brothers? Here, take 6 of them) went a long way toward keeping them in business selling new bits. which led to a lot of people getting really good at freehand sharpening and wanting no other method. I've run a cutting machine with both new and properly resharpened bits, and could tell no difference - but that doesn't keep you supplied in free whetstones. They're soft and don't last very long (maybe by design), but they sure would put a keen edge on a pocketknife in a hurry.

Damn, where was I? Oh, as much as I love my Cruwear PM2, it's gotten to the point that I'm loathe to use it in such an edge-deadening chore as opening and breaking down boxes. If the Spyderco Tri-angle sharpener will handle Maxamet, I'm going to end up with one. With plenty of isopropyel (sp?) and paper towels at hand to get the sticky off the blade, it sounds like a PM2-3 in Maxamet would be perfect for that one job, even though it isn't as versatile as Cruwear. I may need to buy a finer "grit" diamond stone, and I don't know if that's available. What say you?

 

[mentalknife]

Magnacut is the latest fad steel, it's not necessarily better in every way. It has a lot of desirable qualities and will likely stick around, but a lot of what you're hearing is hype. Steels like Elmax and S110V were once the flavor of the month but are rarely seen now.

S110V is kind of an odd one. On paper it should have better edge retention than S90V since it has more carbides, but due to a variety of factors it didn't perform as well in real world situations. It's far harder to sharpen, chips more easily, and quickly loses a keen edge in favor of a toothy one. So in actual use, many people found their S90V knives performed better, and now you don't see a whole lot of knives in S110V. It was too specialized.

I suspect Magnacut will stand the test of time much better than S110V did because it's very well balanced. Depending on how you heat treat it, you can bring out qualities that are ideal for the majority of users. Soon enough the excitement will die down and people will need something new to chase, but Magnacut will still be a great steel. 154CM, for instance, is practically ancient but still very well liked due to the balance of positive attributes.

A lot of what you're hearing is hype but thats because most of what counts as "discourse" in the knifre bro community is usually nothing more than myth and hype. I dont think magnacut is a gimmick at all. I think companies like spiderco like to use steel choices as a gimmick to appeal to the OCD side of their male demographic's brains. It's a marketing tactic and it's working well for them. Go ahead, collect them all like you did with pokemon cards or whatever. But fundamentally it relies on a curiosity which is informed by ignorance. Fundamental ignorance. But it's all harmless fun, so it doesn't really matter.

I think it's a masterfully designed blade steel and a gift to the so called community. Blame end users for being shlubs and blame companies for making shlub products, magnacut is a great steel.What makes it so great? It's extremely stainless but doesn't contain chromium carbides. This is novel but not necessarily what makes it so great. What makes it great isn't it's middle of the road abrasion resistance either. Abrasion resistance which knife bros wrongly call edge retention is what the lower IQ segment of the knife world, basically most shlubs , hyper focus on to the detriment of everything else, when in reality if you understand how a knife works and how to use one, it's one of the least critical aspects in a blade steel. So what makes it great? It's hardenability and toughness combination. All steels have a given level of hardenability and toughness, but these are related. The best blade steel will be able to get very hard but also retain a good degree of toughness at high hardness. Magnacut is very stainless, has the abrasion resistance of steels like s35vn, and yet at 64 rc it has about the same toughness as AEBL. That is fan fkn tastic. That right there if I had to say it one sentence is what makes it great. Imagine AEBL that stays keen at the edge twice as long as is even more stainless. Sounds amazing, right? Cuz it is. The one potential downside of this steel is reduced machinability vs. traditional chromium steels like XHP, which is another excellent all around blade steel. For an all around stainless blade steel, magnacut is about as good as it gets. Blame knife companies for making mediocre products and end users for not know how to use or maintain knives. The steel is good tho.

 

[glamisduner]

DingDingDing!

Since most of what I do with a knife is opening boxes, mostly from Amazon (be honest, most of you are with me on that),. I think Maxamet would be an ideal steel for me ... if I can resharpen it easily. I've used a diamond "encrusted" plate from ragnarsforge.com for many years, but with the hand/forearms tremors I just can't keep a consistent edge with it - and to be frank, it's a tiny sharpener even for small slip-joints and it's ver\y easy to cut something you deem important. My previous sharpeners of choice were composite stones that Carboloy handed out freely when they stopped to see how their bits were doing (they were for a coal mining "cutting machine", and the easiest way to describe it is to imagine a chainsaw with a 9 foot bar and replaceable tungsten bits, cutting horizontally). Naturally, to keep the mine workers satisfied enough to recommend their new bits (instead of teeth on a chain saw, they were replaceable) over re-sharpened bits) by resharpened bits which were as good or even better if resharpend by someone who was skilled. A little bit of politicking, some hand shaking and tossing a copious amount of nice whetstones around like they were free beer (You have brothers? Here, take 6 of them) went a long way toward keeping them in business selling new bits. which led to a lot of people getting really good at freehand sharpening and wanting no other method. I've run a cutting machine with both new and properly resharpened bits, and could tell no difference - but that doesn't keep you supplied in free whetstones. They're soft and don't last very long (maybe by design), but they sure would put a keen edge on a pocketknife in a hurry.

Damn, where was I? Oh, as much as I love my Cruwear PM2, it's gotten to the point that I'm loathe to use it in such an edge-deadening chore as opening and breaking down boxes. If the Spyderco Tri-angle sharpener will handle Maxamet, I'm going to end up with one. With plenty of isopropyel (sp?) and paper towels at hand to get the sticky off the blade, it sounds like a PM2-3 in Maxamet would be perfect for that one job, even though it isn't as versatile as Cruwear. I may need to buy a finer "grit" diamond stone, and I don't know if that's available. What say you?

won't maxamet just be that much harder to sharpen and more chippy though ( don't have any in this steel yet)? I'm really liking this 15v so far, but don't have enough experience with it to do a good comparison in actual use. Your best bet for boxes is to pickup a milwaukee fastback (all steel version). Then you can just chuck the blade in the trash when you done. With the right heat treat 15v is sounding better than maxamet in many areas, while retaining the edge about the same.

 

[LostCause]

DingDingDing!

Since most of what I do with a knife is opening boxes, mostly from Amazon (be honest, most of you are with me on that),. I think Maxamet would be an ideal steel for me ... if I can resharpen it easily. I've used a diamond "encrusted" plate from ragnarsforge.com for many years, but with the hand/forearms tremors I just can't keep a consistent edge with it - and to be frank, it's a tiny sharpener even for small slip-joints and it's ver\y easy to cut something you deem important. My previous sharpeners of choice were composite stones that Carboloy handed out freely when they stopped to see how their bits were doing (they were for a coal mining "cutting machine", and the easiest way to describe it is to imagine a chainsaw with a 9 foot bar and replaceable tungsten bits, cutting horizontally). Naturally, to keep the mine workers satisfied enough to recommend their new bits (instead of teeth on a chain saw, they were replaceable) over re-sharpened bits) by resharpened bits which were as good or even better if resharpend by someone who was skilled. A little bit of politicking, some hand shaking and tossing a copious amount of nice whetstones around like they were free beer (You have brothers? Here, take 6 of them) went a long way toward keeping them in business selling new bits. which led to a lot of people getting really good at freehand sharpening and wanting no other method. I've run a cutting machine with both new and properly resharpened bits, and could tell no difference - but that doesn't keep you supplied in free whetstones. They're soft and don't last very long (maybe by design), but they sure would put a keen edge on a pocketknife in a hurry.

Damn, where was I? Oh, as much as I love my Cruwear PM2, it's gotten to the point that I'm loathe to use it in such an edge-deadening chore as opening and breaking down boxes. If the Spyderco Tri-angle sharpener will handle Maxamet, I'm going to end up with one. With plenty of isopropyel (sp?) and paper towels at hand to get the sticky off the blade, it sounds like a PM2-3 in Maxamet would be perfect for that one job, even though it isn't as versatile as Cruwear. I may need to buy a finer "grit" diamond stone, and I don't know if that's available. What say you?

Spyderco does have diamond rods. Diamond can sharpen Maxamet. But Maxamet does sharpen harder than other steels.

won't maxamet just be that much harder to sharpen and more chippy though ( don't have any in this steel yet)? I'm really liking this 15v so far, but don't have enough experience with it to do a good comparison in actual use. Your best bet for boxes is to pickup a milwaukee fastback (all steel version). Then you can just chuck the blade in the trash when you done. With the right heat treat 15v is sounding better than maxamet in many areas, while retaining the edge about the same.

Diamond will sharpen anything in reasonable ammount of time.
And Maxamet still does offer a lot more toughness than for example S110V and S90V. I don't know how 15V compares though. I personally have Delica in K390 and I like it. And K390 is comparable to 10V.
But for pure edge retention - I'd take Maxamet. It's just next level. And is also fairly tough for that hardness.

 

[glamisduner]

Spyderco does have diamond rods. Diamond can sharpen Maxamet. But Maxamet does sharpen harder than other steels.

Diamond will sharpen anything in reasonable ammount of time.
And Maxamet still does offer a lot more toughness than for example S110V and S90V. I don't know how 15V compares though. I personally have Delica in K390 and I like it. And K390 is comparable to 10V.
But for pure edge retention - I'd take Maxamet. It's just next level. And is also fairly tough for that hardness.

My understanding is people are saying the edge will hold up almost the same as maxamet, but maybe a slight edge to maxamet, while it's a bit tuffer. It did really well in this test (beat the knife he used for maxamet, but that was a differen't knife)...

 

[David Mary]

Empirically, blue is better than green by exactly 12%.