If only one axe (or only two, or only three axes)

Steve Tall said:
I love that handle, if as I suspect the curve follows the grain. That curve sure brings the cutting edge closer in alignment with your wrist rotation; should be a very accurate chopper.

This weight/length combination (well, with another inch on the handle) is one of Peter Vido's choices if he could only have two axes (the other would be 1-3/4 pound on a 24-25" handle), as listed in the original post.
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That one had very straight grain. I wouldnt do the offset with poor grain because of the run out. it does swing nice and accurately, but it also seems less tiring to use. I can swing a curved handle accurately enough to chop effeciently but i get tired faster, which kills accuracy.

to play along some more, here is a bit more musing.

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The Walters (I think its 3 1/4 pound, handle 31 inches) on the right along with the 2 pound snow & nealley (small one on the right next to the 2 3/4 pound, 26 inch handle) would be my choices for 2 axes.

The 3 I would pick would be that same Walters, the Mann (left of walters in photo) 2 1/4 pound with 27 inch handle, and a plumb scout hatchet, the same exact model Peter listed. The handle is 14 inches I think.
 
If i must choose one it will be a tapered full tang like Winklers Combat version in spring steel.

For two or only 3 axes i will pick Gransfor Bruks carving axe and Cegga which i truly love.
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I hope to the list above once i got something from John Neeman tools.
 
In starting a homestead the primary duty of an ax will be to fell trees and lay up firewood (in the absence of a saw). At least in this neck of the woods. So I'd have to go with a 3 1/2 to 4 pound single bit head on a 36" handle. You can always choke up on the handle for closer work (limbing trees, squaring and notching the logs for for the house and shed). You'll need to split logs for your roof and the heavier and longer handle will give an advantage in driving the wooden wedges. I'd choose the largest knife that I could easily clean a 6" trout with. Probably a 10-11" trade knife pattern (scalper). There is a reason those were in demand 150+ years ago.
The second tool would be a carpenters ax. 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pound head with a 14 -15" handle. (reasons given above)
The third would be a double bit 2 1/2 pound head with a 24" handle.
 
I see the appeal of a full size axe, but I would never choose one as an only axe for the same reason i would not take a hatchet. it is a specialty class that is good for certain things but severely lacks in others. Felling a tree with a 3 pound axe with a 31 inch handle would probably be easier than a heavier, longer axe for reasons of control. a 4 pound axe with a full length will certainly knock chunks out with an undercut from a saw very well but in terms of cutting the whole notch out I dont think it even offers any advantage there. Middle ground is somewhere around 3 pound (give or take a quarter pound) and somewhere in 29 to 32 inch. Thats my opinion. Way too many factors to reach any sort of consensus what with climate, tree growth, species, individual strength and preference, etc. But it sure is fun!
 
I have some more pictures of around 15 different axes I would consider in various combinations (or alone), ranging from 8 oz. 12 inch handle to 3 1/4 pound 31 inch handle. I am waiting to get a card reader to upload them. In the mean time I would encourage others here to play along. I think this has potential for really good discussion. Given the diversity of folks here, maybe we could (briefly) touch upon other "homesteading" tools as well, I might have a thing or two to say about that being a hand tool nut of sorts.
 
I have a working camera and computer, so I must snap some pics of my choices today. If I can ever make them. Such hard decisions!
 
The one axe seems to be the most controversial and all-over-the-where choice. I tend to agree with peter's choice of 2 1/4 pound with a 28" handle. This little walters is just around there, good geometry and the handle is shaped right for a lot of different things. I like this axe and i'm comfortable using it for a lot of different things.

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The two here are a 3 pound spiller with a 31 1/2" handle, and a 2 pound snow & nealley with a 28" handle. The spiller is a great axe for chopping, scoring, hewing, limbing, etc. I love it and use it all the time. The reason I did not choose it for a sole axe would be that its not light enough to use for carving and fine work. The 2 pound snow and nealley, despite having the long handle allowing it to really back a helluva whollop, can be choked up on and used for carving as well quite nicely.

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This is a 1 1/4 pound HB hatchet on a 13 or 14" handle (dont remember how long I made it), A 2 1/4 ish Walters on a 26" handle, and an old oakland axe (probably spiller or E&S) that is 3 3/4 pounds (stamped, it has wear and is probably closer to 3 1/2) and a 31" inch oak handle. I also considered growing the little walters up to a slightly heavier head on a 27" handle (my little Mann 2 1/4) but this is the picture I came in with. The heavy axe will split, buck, hew etc with probably the most ease. it has a wedgy bit and throws a good chip. The walters is very thin and sharp, limbs well, is a generally outstanding little walk about axe that still packs a punch. The handle is a little bit shorter than I'm used to, hence the hesitance between it and the Mann. The litlle HB hatchet has been my favored carving hatchet ever since I put a handle on it last summer. Very nicely shaped bit and cheeks, light, the handle fits nicely. Its my favorite hatchet and handy for those hatchet jobs like carving handles where even something like the walters above would take considerably more energy to use.

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Sorry the pics are dark, its wicked glary out there with the sun beating on the white snow. its a beauty of a day out there though!
 
Hi all,

This thread is almost six months old (as of today 5/29/2013). I'm bumping it because it is full of VERY useful information for a "newbie" like myself.

Regards,

HARDBALL
 
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